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Old 10-15-2014, 08:36 PM   #11
Rich Biebel
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Default Re: ATI Balencer removal

No problem and it is good that ATI shows that spec sheet on balancer to crank fit specs.

For years and years we just put them on and never measured anything. Had many instances like Keith is having.

I can tell you for sure that press fit when too much can be a disaster..

I pressed many pistons on rods as we did not use heat. If you went beyond about .001 press on a steel rod with a cast piston you were in the danger zone.....

Heating the rod is a much better way to do that operation.....
I have heated up balancers to try and make it easier.....aluminum mostly...
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Old 10-15-2014, 09:39 PM   #12
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Default Re: ATI Balencer removal

I know ATI would tell you to remove the balancer from the alum.hub,then put the hub in boiling water to expand it,and slide it on the crank snout,it worked but you had to be fast lol..Of course after you went to remove it,it was welded on!.On your deal your going to have to separate the two by removing the countersunk tork bolts (they may be tight).You may be able to see a few threads on the broken bolt,if not you'll need an easy out.You can also try a quality gear puller,give the snout a shot with a penetrant ,then have a buddy hold a heat/stripper gun on the hub while you turn the puller. Good luck! gsa612

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Old 10-16-2014, 07:10 AM   #13
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Default Re: ATI Balencer removal

Not a feasible plan to try and get chain off unless you cut it to remove crank.....

That balancer will come off with a good remover, good bolts and make sure you set it up straight so it pulls all 3 bolts evenly.....and hits the crank squarely without damaging it.....

You do not have to remove the outer ring and it makes no difference if you do anyway. The hub is steel not aluminum....
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Old 10-16-2014, 09:19 AM   #14
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Default Re: ATI Balencer removal

ordered the replacement parts for the puller and picked up some grade 8 bolts. I will try a little heat under pressure when I get back to it. of course the company is out of Washington. so it will be a while...nice that it is lifetime guarantee and they picked up shipping too
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Old 10-16-2014, 11:12 AM   #15
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Default Re: ATI Balencer removal

You may have a steel hub,the one I have is alum. on a BBC stocker.Here's a link to the install./remove instructions. www.atiracing.com/instructions/Super-Damper.pdf gsa612
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Old 10-19-2014, 08:52 PM   #16
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Default Re: ATI Balencer removal

Keith,
Not sure where you are in Delaware, but once you get it off if you are close enough to Baltimore it might be worth running it to ATI and have the fit it for you. Have someone measure the crank snout with a good micrometer and take that micrometer with you to use as a reference. Any machine shop with a Sunnen rod hone should also be able to do it but a lot of guys don't have the proper mandrel for that small size. I bought both of them for Big Blocks and Small Blocks.

Hope this helps !
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Old 10-23-2014, 01:23 AM   #17
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Cool Re: ATI Balencer removal

I had one like that. Put as much pressure on the puller as you think it will stand, then hit the jam bolt with a hammer right on the end and hit it hard. Keep tightening the puller and repeating the process. That is what I had to do to get one off that was not honed before it was installed. Good Luck.
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Old 10-23-2014, 09:00 AM   #18
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Default Re: ATI Balencer removal

i ended up cutting the hub off. this thing was welded to the crank! was told by the machine shop that it was actually too loose when installed. Unfreaking believable take a look.....
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Old 10-23-2014, 11:41 AM   #19
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Default Re: ATI Balencer removal

They may have used 609 loctite (green) or similar when they put on the damper which was loose,if you use too much that can happen. gsa612
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