Roller Rockers on LT-1

[John Nechiporchik]

Going to install Roller Rockers on the LT-1. Also, planning on going to head studs since I have the motor apart. Somewhere I read/heard that there are potentially interference issues when using roller rockers with studs.
Any input/wisdom/solutions on this issue....if one exists.

Thanks,
John

[ss3011]

Shouldn't have any clearance problems with the rockers to head studs, I would recommend the 12 point nuts. If you are going to hone the block (recommended), make sure you do it with the studs installed first. Using the studs with torque plates to hone the block.

[tj310]

You'll want the 12 point nuts in the centre 4 locations between the springs for wrench clearance. I also ground a couple of threads off of the studs in those locations so they didn't scrap .---Trevor

[Jon Sarrett]

I found it necessary to use adjustable guide plates to maintain proper alignment.

[Lee Valentine]

You might want to rethink head studs on an LT-1 stocker if ever go to tear down, a little tight getting the heads off in car.

[countrypuppy4865]

Just be sure to check your cam lift with roller rockers. Just because they say 1.5 doesn't mean they really are. Comp cams stainless steel rocker arms are some of the truest to size.

[John Nechiporchik]

Lee, Excellent point . Going to check that out before I pull motor out this weekend.
Country Puppy... Also good point . This is definitely going to be a science project this winter!!
Thanks for everyone's input. As usual, a lot of good advice /experience.

John

[Mike Pearson]

If you get the head studs that have the allen head in the end of the stud then you can remove the studs like a bolt with the head on if there is a problem with getting the head off in the car.

[Adger Smith]

John, If your block was prepared (bored and honed) with regular head bolts or bolts in the Torque plates you might create problems with cylinder sealing when you install head studs. Head studs distort a block differently than head bolts. there is a fundamental difference in how a stud anchors and a bolt climbs an inclined thread pitch. If you want to use Head studs put them in and have the block honed with them. It is SOP at my shop to prepare the cylinder bores with the Torque plates and the type fastener that is going to be used. Studs with Studs and bolts with bolts. another issue with studs is they require a dead flat interface with the head and block deck. If your heads have any uncorrected angle mill in them the bolts will self align slightly in the thread clearance, studs don't and are not forgiving. Installing studs correctly is not just a matter of screwing them in and tighten them up. Same goes for main bearing studs vs bolts. Whatever you are attempting to gain with studs might have a negative in cylinder/ring seal.

[Ed Wright]

Adger is correct, of course. Patterson has me bring the same gasket and actual head bolts & washers I'm going to use when they hone mine. Bad enough getting the heads off one of these 4th gen F body cars with bolts. I'm too old to fight studs too, at least in an iron block. I have run several engines both ways over the years, and if the block is prepped correctly, mine have always run the same with either fastener.