car stumbles in the air!

[TinSoldier 3215]

thanks to All for the help!!!!!!!!! Still Looking!!!!

[DIAPERMAN]

We had the same problem sometimes on the 88 Cutlass S/S move the regulator in front of the carb that way when the car launches the fuel in line will feed to bowl .

[brett3533]

had similar problem w/quadrajet and found that i had left out the block off plate under the top of quadrajet. when i was on the dyno the carb functions perfect. put on the car and would almost quit running on the launch, the harder we launched the wose it got. who built your carb and did they even use one of theses plates they are not part of rebuild or stock equipped we used to use a peice of black electrical tape years ago but now mike mcdonald and danny ashley,at Q/jet performance rebuilds and enhances my Q/jets and he makes a custom plate that the rear meter rods fit perfect. the tape would be a quick cheap way to check,but it does not last. I am pretty sure this will fix your problem. if it does you may want to get in touch w/mike mcdonald or danny ashley. plese let us know if this works

[Tom Goldman]

I've seen similar problems when the fuel pump is not low enough in relation to the tank.
when the wheelstand is high enough the pump momentarly starves,and then recovers as the car falls out of the wheelstand.

[ron mattson]

I just went through the same situation, on my car it was a loose power supply wire in
my switch panel, it would lose power then get power and peck like a miss at the top
of the wheelstand after that it would run great.

[TinSoldier 3215]

The car did not do this until we made a change to the Bindo Terminator Button. Haves anyone had to make modification to the button maybe shorting out? We made the change only.

[Jeff Goss]

Change it out to the old button and see if problem persists. Can't imagine that button would cause the problem.

[Dean Oliver]

Like many others who have commented, I'm not convinced that you have a carburetor issue. If I were you, I'd probably be looking for some of the electrical issues that have been mentioned.

But, let's look at two things related to the carb to see if we can begin to determine what is at fault. First, what is your fuel pressure? A good ballpark number for most Q-jets regardless of builder is 7 psi max. You will need to verify your gauge reading by comparing it to a second gauge. Typically, if a fuel pressure gauge goes bad, it will just give you an incorrect reading and make you believe it all day long. Also, do NOT use the little 1" or so gauges that screw into your regulator port for your fuel pressure reading, especially a liquid filled one. I have seen more than one racer chase similar problems that ended up being a faulty fuel pressure gauge. Your gauge could be showing 7 psi but maybe you really have 10.

Next, what size needle/seat is in the carb? I've seen too big of a seat cause more problems that it potentially solves.

These are obviously not the only two things to look at, but just some brainstorming suggestions as someone else stated. Good luck.

Dean

[TinSoldier 3215]

Going racing this weekend to see if we made the Right Moves!!!!

[Bob Mulry]

Hi,

Just a heads-up on the adjustable type transbrake buttons......

Some of the "adjustable" buttons have the return spring set as to be the softest possible and the weight of the button and plunger along with the additional "G" force of the launch are enough to slightly depress the button and cause a miss.

They have to build it this way to allow the plunger to return as slowly as possible to the top of travel to allow adjustability..

Put a different button in or if it's OK reinstall your old button and give it a shot...

Bob