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06-22-2011, 05:19 PM | #1 |
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9 on 10
Do I need tubes if I'm running a 9" tire on a 10" wheel? What pressure would you recommend for a 2800 lb car, 400 trans, 488 gear, ladder bar, mono leaf with sliders.
It's not a stocker or super stocker, but you guys are the best source for tech info. |
06-22-2011, 05:49 PM | #2 |
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Re: 9 on 10
No need for tubes. Pressure depends upon whether or not it is a radial.
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Alan Roehrich 212A G/S |
06-22-2011, 07:01 PM | #3 |
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Re: 9 on 10
The primary difference between bias ply and radial slicks is that typically a radial will work better with a little more air pressure. But the range for either can be 10 lbs or more.
I run 21 lbs in my Hoosier radials, but have heard numbers as low as 14 and as high as 24+ for both styles. Radials are faster, but more sensitive to track conditions and can spin sooner and more than bias ply. Pick a "high teen" pressure and adjust it based on contact patch on the track, tire surface and 60' times. Too many variables to be very specific. Tire may move a little until it "settles in" and you can watch it with a shoe polish spot across from the valve stem. Swapping them from side-to-side will keep it close to where it was balanced at. If the movement is considerable and constant, especially if using lower pressures, it may be necessary to screw the beads. Never run tubes without securing the beads first. |
06-22-2011, 08:14 PM | #4 |
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Re: 9 on 10
Thanks for the help. These are bias ply, 2 for 1, Toyo's. I'm trying a 6.50 index class that requires a 9 inch tire and I've never run a tire that small. The wheels came with Hoosier 30 tall bias tires that are feathered pretty badly. I've been told that a good hard burn out would clean off the feather, but that's never been my experience so I'm putting on new Toyos and hoping they work. I plan to screw them and run tubeless. Is that a mistake? I bought these with tubes in them, but I think the previous owner ran tubes because he picked up a pop rivet. Thanks again, you guys are the best.
Last edited by Ron Gusack; 06-22-2011 at 08:16 PM. |
06-22-2011, 08:42 PM | #5 |
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Re: 9 on 10
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06-22-2011, 08:59 PM | #6 |
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Re: 9 on 10
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06-22-2011, 09:20 PM | #7 | |
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Re: 9 on 10
Quote:
Not sure how much track conditions or perhaps the wrong rubber compound may contribute to feathering. I haven't had a problem and swap sides regularly anyway. |
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06-22-2011, 09:48 PM | #8 |
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Re: 9 on 10
Take Myron's advice and turn your tires around once and a while. I turn my Hoosier radials around every 4 to 6 passes. I have always had better luck with wheels 1/2" to 1" wider than tread area. You can hook harder with more air and more stability. I never use screws. If you use narrower wheels you have to use lower air pressures to get the foot print right, then often need screws to keep them from slipping on the wheels. Since I went to wider wheels several years ago I have not needed screws. When I ran 9" radials 10" wheels were quicker.
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Ed Wright 4156 SS/JA |
06-22-2011, 10:59 PM | #9 |
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Re: 9 on 10
Just a note, but sometimes it depends upon the upon the wheel as to whether you use a tube, some wheels inherently leak. I had a set of Americans that leaked and I used enough silicone to double the weight of the wheel.
Just a thought. JimR
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Jim Rountree |
06-22-2011, 11:18 PM | #10 |
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Re: 9 on 10
I regularly turn the tires at 10 runs, or very close to it. The feathered Hoosiers that I have came on the wheels that I just purchased.
My question is, will hurt to run screws when they aren't needed? I don't like to see the tire mark 3 inches from the stem. Why is it bad to run screws? |
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