Weld Drag Star stuck on studs

[Kegracing]

I have a rear wheel that is stuck on the 5/8" studs.
Had a slick get cut by small piece of glass Saturday after warming the car up, before first TT. Luckily it was in tread face. I had spare slicks in the trailer, so jacked it up and took the lugs off. Weld rim is glued on the studs, and would not come free. I had torqued the nuts to about 90 lbs, and they were all tight when I took them off. Tried to rock the rim, put lug nuts back on and off again, tapped it with a rubber mallet, etc. Was 100+ at 4 pm TX time, and they were calling us to the lanes. I pulled the glass out, stuck a plug in it, and raced rest of the night. Fell asleep 2nd round, and put it in the trailer and went home.

What secrets, other than keep beating on it, does anyone have to get the Weld rim off? Any ideas why it is stuck? Never had any trouble with it before, and wheel is true and not warped, etc. I did not try other side, so not sure if it is stuck or not. Having the 5/8" studs, they are always snug going on and off, but never had a problem like this before. I have three sets of Weld rears for this car(radials, tall and short bias), and first time a problem.

thanks
Ken

[Dragsinger]

some suggestions;

*mix 50/50 ATF and Acetone

*use a propane torch keeping the flame a few inches from the wheel, heat all around stud/wheel flange area. Use judgement about how much heat and for how long. Maybe 45 seconds, 60 seconds.

*use a squirt gun to apply 50/50 mix the the studs

*let it soak and cool, possibly repeat the process.

*if a rubber mallet will not loosen try putting the lug nuts on a few rounds, set car on ground
and rock car side to side.

*Take two aspirin and post results in the morning

[Larry Hill]

Try heating the studs with a propane torch. this should cause a difference in expansion rates between the wheel and the studs and help break the bond. WD-40 the studs after they cool, jack up car so wheel will turn, get a 2" X 6"X 2 1/2' long so the end of the board will stand on floor and be against the sidewall. Now start asking the tire and wheel to start moving off the studs by using a 4lbs. hammer against the 2x6. Hit the 2x6 and rotate 180* strike again, rotate 90* and keep after it. Its kind of bouncy but you won't bend a wheel. Heat the end of the studs don't get them red hot, they are hot enough when a drop of water will dance on the stud. Keep in mind that there is a oil seal for the axle. Good luck!

[ss3011]

I had that exact problem with my drag stars too. What I do is use a Stanley "Magic Bar" flat pry bar which fits perfectly through the spokes of the wheel, then pry between the wheel and hub, if you work it around in a star pattern, the wheel comes off no problem.

[older racer]

hi,I have found that tightening aluminum wheels and other parts down tight, causes the aluminum edge of hole to roll inward and grasps the shaft of the bolt tightly. therefore , it is locked!!!! I toruqe my 5/8 wheel nuts to 65 #. I've had to run a round file through the wheel holes at times to take out the lip.just food for thought.

[Kegracing]

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone. Traveling with work this week, but looks like I know what my Saturday morning will be focused around! LOL
At least it is only projected to be about 90 Saturday. Cool front for TX this time of the year!
Will let you know how it goes.
Ken

[Kegracing]

Well,
Little hand torch, some WD 40, rubber mallet and dead blow, and all is good again.
I did take a file and clean up the holes on wheels when done.
I did get the two aspirin and a cold drink afterwards too... getting old sucks! LOL
Thanks everyone.

[Dragsinger]

did you mix the aspirin with the wd40?

[Bob Don]

I hope the "cold drink" was of the "adult" variety!

[Eman]

Are you using the aluminum spacers under the nuts or are the nuts against the wheel? Directly from Weld they recommend torque spec of 135 with 5/8 studs. My pro Stars which are 3 piece slide right on and off, much better than with shanked lug nuts and small studs.