Ford vs Chevy Build-up

[Tony Corley]

As I said, forget about the PMS until you have actually set the TPS with a multimeter. After it is set, enter the reading from the TPS into the table on the PMS, then follow the instruction I posted to make adjustments.

[HandOverFist]

Finally got the controller to recognize the TPS voltage settings. I now have WOT!



http://vid434.photobucket.com/albums...psonczvbiu.mp4

I messed with the MAP/BAP sensor for a bit...pulling a vacuum on the port has no effect. I don't have a meter on hand that reads Hertz. I also need to learn how to test the MAF to determine if it is in good working order.

Bad news is the new one wire alternator has quit charging. I'll send it back Monday for a replacement. Radial slicks to ship out Monday.

[HandOverFist]

Hindsight -

Sitting in the truck this evening drinking a cup of coffee near the end of my shift I realized something that I overlooked at the beginning of this build. The car was running when I purchased it, but ran poorly. What I should have done before rushing to strip it down was to investigate the reason(s) for the ratty state...that likely would have saved me countless hours of head scratching down the road.

I did not take into account I would be re-using most of the existing sensors/wiring and would have been ahead of the curve by simply hooking a scanner to it and retrieving some codes...lesson learned. As it stands right now I strongly suspect a defective ECU...a bad wire harness seems less likely atm. I'll know more later today after a couple of tests which include bypassing the PMS to eliminate it as a source of sorrow.

[SSGT Mustang]

When I took the cover off the computer to install the Quarter Horse in my convertible, I noticed that the legs on some capacitors had corroded away. The other components were fine, since the motherboard has a coating on it to cover them. But the legs on the capacitors are exposes to the elements and will corrode over time.

I replaced all of the capacitors. There are electrolytic capacitors and a couple of tantalum capacitors. But, this is not such an easy job. You have to gently remove the coating on both sides of the motherboard to de-solder and re-solder the components without ruining the tracings or the solder pads.

My advice...take a look. If the capacitors are secure and not bulging, then you're probably fine. If not, then you should probably try to repair it before going out and buying a replacement. It's not hard to replace the capacitors, it's just tedious.

Those computers are made to last. They used top of the line components, and protected them with a very durable covering. You're probably fine.

Again, you just got started. Take it one step at a time.

A good way to get a baseline is to replace all of your sensors including the O2's. Clean the connections from the harness to each component, clamp them a little to make them tight and reconnect using dielectric grease. This is especially important for the O2's. There are the connections at each O2 sensor, and then a connection near the passenger strut tower Do them all. Make sure you do the same at the two multi-pin connectors on the upper manifold.

Then, bring it to the track and make one change at a time. Log each pass.

[hutt1]

I did the same thing when we purchased an 86 Svo for my stocker build and come to find out the wire loom was spliced and damaged in numerous places.. We had issues of sensors not working all the time thus the complete rewiring and basic start over.. We live and learn .. Scott

[HandOverFist]

Thanks guys - I won't be going back to the track until all sensors are verified as working. As it stands now the only engine sensors I have installed are the O2's, MAF, BAP, ECT, ATC and TPS...the EGR was deleted and the PCV has been plugged.

Going to the shop shortly to retest the BAP...Brian filled me in last night I should have been probing the battery grd instead of the grd at the harness.

[HandOverFist]

Did some probing today and verified the MAF is working correctly. The BAP sensor problem still plagues me tho...the only sensor that is not functioning. The color code of the wiring in the engine compartment is slightly different from the schematic...it is correct at the ECM termination point however. I don't have a clue where the transition occurs.

Schematic - http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/te...ng_Diagram.gif

VREF color at the sensor is Brown/White (shows Orange/White on the schematic). It has the correct voltage of 5.07v key on/engine off.

Signal return is Grey/Red (shown as Black/White on the schematic). It has .04v.

BP is Green/Black which is correct all the way and has 2.58v. When I try the Hz scale on the meter it does not move from zero. There is only one scale on this meter for Hz (20K)...wrong scale for this test?

I did a continuity test on the BP wire from the sensor to the ECM connector and it appears solid...I am baffled at this point and don't know what to do next.

There was a 3 bar MAP sensor that came with the PMS and a short jumper attached to the piggyback harness. When I plug the 3 bar in the screen instantly shows it functioning...I can move the reading by applying suction to the port. I don't know if this could be used in lieu of the barometer sensor for this car/computer. Open to any suggestions as I'm totally stumped on this one.

Btw, I did bypass the PMS and went straight to the ECM as a test as well...still no Hz reading, but the engine still fires and runs.

[tommy d]

Rich, this car seems to have taught you some kind of ''new'' language. I don't understand what it is your saying anymore! Bap-Map-Hertz and Diode. You didn't hit your head or something did you?

[Tony Corley]

Rich, here is a good test procedure for your BAP circuit and sensor.


http://sbftech.com/index.php?topic=19336.0

[HandOverFist]

Originally Posted by Tony Corley

Rich, here is a good test procedure for your BAP circuit and sensor.


http://sbftech.com/index.php?topic=19336.0

Thanks Tony - I did all the tests except the sensor unplugged portion described in the article...will try that tm. The PMS has a diagnostic that stores fault codes, but it shows none.