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Old 05-19-2019, 10:56 AM   #21
Ed Wright
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Default Re: Locked out distributor advance question

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Originally Posted by Coleydog View Post
I always use one very light spring on the advance. Engine starts at a small degree then flings out after 500 rpm to full advance. Easy to start any high compression engine. Also use a locking collar to allow no shaft up and down movement. I use a stock dist except when needing a tach drive.
Mike
When we used points (been doing this way too long) I simply used no springs. The load from the ppoints would pull the advance back out for easy start ups. Small throttle whack = full advance even at idle. EFI makes it much easier.
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Last edited by Ed Wright; 05-19-2019 at 10:59 AM.
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Old 05-19-2019, 01:12 PM   #22
Mark Yacavone
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Default Re: Locked out distributor advance question

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Originally Posted by 1320racer View Post
This^^^ I would never recommend a locked out distributor when using a stock or stock type distributor. I’ve been running my distributors with 18-20 degrees mechanical advance and all in by 2000 rpm for 25 years. The reward is no hard starting, no kickbacks, no broken flexplate teeth and no broken starter drives. Spins over like the plugs are out.
We class racers use an MSD timing control with fixed distributor. It'll take 15* or so out for starting. Also , we class racers sometimes use it to retard the timing in high gear.
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Old 05-19-2019, 02:18 PM   #23
MR DERBY CITY
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Default Re: Locked out distributor advance question

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We class racers use an MSD timing control with fixed distributor. It'll take 15* or so out for starting. Also , we class racers sometimes use it to retard the timing in high gear.
This is a perfect example why 1319.5 E.D. Needs to hang out in the .90 neighborhoods....
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Old 05-19-2019, 02:57 PM   #24
Mark Yacavone
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Default Re: Locked out distributor advance question

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This is a perfect example why 1319.5 E.D. Needs to hang out in the .90 neighborhoods....
Like the name... I call him YB E.D.
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