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04-22-2015, 12:17 AM | #1 |
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Hooking questions about newer 5.0 Mustang STICKSHIFT
can someone give me a good rundown of what it takes to make this car work on a marginal track? I see guys with more power making their cars work well......But I think being a stickshift, specialty advice may be in order......stiff sidewall tires, yes or no? Id like to leave at 5500 plus rpm. any ideas ? Has run 11.23@122 (bouncing off of limiter in 4th at 7500), and gone 1.50 on a good track, but on a marginal track, the car hooks initially and spins, usually going mid 1.60's. I see others with same tire on automatic cars going high 1.30s / low 1.40s on the same junk track AND tire. My car weighs 3620 currently w/driver, and has a 28x11.5 hoosier qtp (regular sidewall). tread is probably more like a real 10.25 inches wide.
Last edited by casrak7; 04-22-2015 at 12:24 AM. |
04-22-2015, 12:40 PM | #2 |
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Re: Hooking questions about newer 5.0 Mustang STICKSHIFT
hooking and then spinning,may be mashing sidewall down then tire rebounds and causes to spin?
Mike Taylor 3601 |
04-22-2015, 02:38 PM | #3 |
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Re: Hooking questions about newer 5.0 Mustang STICKSHIFT
Stick car loves a stiff sidewall. What year Mustang are you referring too?
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04-22-2015, 04:24 PM | #4 |
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Re: Hooking questions about newer 5.0 Mustang STICKSHIFT
At 3620 it has to be an 08+ I assume?
The qtp's are imo junk compared to a normal slick unless you have to run them for some sort of class rule. Stiff would help... Whats your current suspension setup? |
04-22-2015, 05:11 PM | #5 |
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Re: Hooking questions about newer 5.0 Mustang STICKSHIFT
it is a customers car....its a newer 5.0. 2013 i believe. Suspension is pretty stock at this point still.........Trying to get recommendations on everything that you guys think will work the best.......
Last edited by casrak7; 04-22-2015 at 05:14 PM. |
04-23-2015, 07:23 PM | #6 |
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Re: Hooking questions about newer 5.0 Mustang STICKSHIFT
If the rear suspension is at the stock angles, the instant center is way forward of where it needs to be. It needs shocks/struts, rear control arms without all those rubber bushings, and at least the body side mount for the upper control arm that will let you lower the front to shorten the instant center. I'm not a big fan of those aftermarket brackets that lower the rear of the lower control arms, they often get the axle crooked, and I think even the first hole is often too much of a drop. Totally agree on the previous comments about tires, a real slick will make a difference. However it will probably also break the driver side axle in rather short order once you do get it hooking hard. I'd save yourself from the problems now and get some axles in it, as well as pinning the axle tubes to the center, they come loose quite often.
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