Ford vs Chevy Build-up

[Rory McNeil]

Originally Posted by 7423

After I completely took my car apart and reassembled as a legal stocker, it was over 200 lbs light of the minimum. I also was going to use a cell but found that a full "stock" tank of fuel (105 pounds) certainly helped that issue...............fyi.
Happy Mustang !!

Although my 85 Mustang is carburated, I also elected to retain the factory gas tank. Like Charlie said, its a good way to adjust the weight easily, plus the tank is at the very back of the car. Also, if you did add a fuel cell, and removed the stock tank , it looks like the rear bumper cover would tend to grab some air, even more so with the GT rear bumper on your convert.

[HandOverFist]

Originally Posted by Rory McNeil

Although my 85 Mustang is carburated, I also elected to retain the factory gas tank. Like Charlie said, its a good way to adjust the weight easily, plus the tank is at the very back of the car. Also, if you did add a fuel cell, and removed the stock tank , it looks like the rear bumper cover would tend to grab some air, even more so with the GT rear bumper on your convert.

Hmm...you got me thinking on that one. Maybe run the straps and poly tank cover down there to slipstream the air?

[Mark Yacavone]

One thing you should consider.
It's a heck of a lot easier to get old or contaminated fuel out of a cell , or to do a fuel brand test.
One good reason to remove the foam too.
White plastic cells work well to see what you've got and to wipe it out to change fuels.

[Alan Nyhus]

Rich.....how's the build coming?

Sorry to see you slipping to the Dark Side with a Blue Oval product (grin).....though I have to admit to a fondness for Fox bodied cars.

My '93 notchback was a real sleeper with the Powerdyne centrifugal supercharger. Surprised a few of the local 'ricer street racer types . -Al

[HandOverFist]

Beautiful Mustang Alan...my first one was a '90 GT coupe which I wish I had kept.

Feel like I'm just creeping along so far, but I did manage to get the housing back under the car today. Forgot to load the pinion flange when I left the house so I could not finish this evening. I still have to press wheel studs in the axles and seat the C-clip eliminators...barring any problems I should have the aft portion wrapped up tm. Roll bar due to be delivered Tuesday.

[Mark Yacavone]

Rich, Are you going to use taller rear springs?

[HandOverFist]

Originally Posted by Mark Yacavone

Rich, Are you going to use taller rear springs?

Those are the factory GT springs Mark. From what I hear they are about what I need for the rear...no idea how the car will sit until I get it on the ground with weight on it. Tires will be 26" out back to begin with. I've been told four cylinder front springs work fairly well for this car...trial and error I suppose.

Spent an hour honing a checking pinion bearing for this 8.8 this evening only to realize once I finished I already had one...12-bolts use the same pinion bearings as the 8.8's lol.

Someday soon maybe...Brian Thompson's P/SA.

[Mark Yacavone]

Reason I ask is because you are lowering the car, or raising the axle (if you prefer) in the car with that setup.
I agree with waiting till it's on the ground and weighted, to see where you're at.
4 cyl. springs work well, in my experience.

[Rory McNeil]

Rich, I can`t tell by your photos, but did you have the axle tubes welded solidly to the cast center. It may not be as critical with an automatic, but I have seen 8.8s rotate the axle tubes on stick cars.

[HandOverFist]

Originally Posted by Rory McNeil

Rich, I can`t tell by your photos, but did you have the axle tubes welded solidly to the cast center. It may not be as critical with an automatic, but I have seen 8.8s rotate the axle tubes on stick cars.

No, I have not Rory. I was told it wasnt necessary at the proposed hp level...it was also suggested a better alternative would be to drill/tap 3/8" bolts into the tubes. We shall see. Back to the grind this morning to see if I can finish the back of the car and move forward.