More front end travel, or more Torsion Bar load?

[DeasonR212]

Setup like Stocker except with 493" 13.5cr power plant and glass hood @ ~3707lbs. I have about 450+ passes in the car. It has Strange Double Adjustables up Front, CalTrac Mono-Leafs, Rancho 5-Way Rear and CalTrac Bars. I have 5.25" of range in front with .840 T-Bars. PTC 9" @ 5200rpm. It's went 9.93@135 with 1.404 60' at ~800DA on 9" x 94"circ Hoosier Radials C06 and no exhaust. I just got my new Hoosier C07s mounted. Running 26" tires up front.

1. I have about another .5" of travel I can add in the front, making the total 5.75" before wheels leave the ground. Since I'm running the .990 T-Bars, I'm not sure if I gain much since I would be taking some of the preload out of those small bars. Any opinions there? More front end travel vs more pre-load?

2. I'm 50.36% Front and 49.64% Rear in current config w/ driver. LF 965 -- RF 902 -- LR 936 -- RR 904. I have about +.5" difference in rear ride hight measured at the fenderwell favoring high on the Drivers Side. Should I attempt to balance that out tightening up passenger side T-Bar, or loosening up the Driver side? See attached.

Trying to get her in the 1.3x's for 60' for OpenComp and Bracket racing. Need to really scrub about .010-.020 in rollout as well for OpenComp off the footbrake. Options, ideas and opinions welcome.

[GTX JOHN]

Are you sure of bar size?
My Indy Big Block Duster has .820 currently and
did not like a thicker bar at all!
Did you cut down or make your own snubbers to
increase the travel as much as possible.
Mine is set up similar rear suspension and will
go 1.33 on foot brake @ 4000'

[DeasonR212]

So I went out and remeasured to be sure. I have three sets. One is the .920 Hemi Bar. One is original .880 bar as it was a 318 car. The set on right now are the Mopar Drag bar .840. I don't know where I came up with .990 in my notes!

[George Mirza]

A few things you can try, reduce the front end travel with a limiter, leave the torsion bars alone.
Tighten up the shocks, both front and rear.
Run a few more pounds of air in the slicks.
Most effective thing is to remove some weight if you can. If you make the car 100 lbs. lighter it will react much different. If you can't take it out, move it around so you can make the other adjustments without sacrificing traction.
All these changes will effect the traction, but limiting body motion will make the car move forward. To much and it will spin, it's a fine line and track conditions need to be considered.
Get out there and test!

[DeasonR212]

Thanks George.

I have my testing mostly setup.

--Starting with C07 Radials at 20psi (can go +/- 2psi)
--Moroso DS2 at 36psi (can go +/- 4psi)
--CalTracks with 1 Turn of Preload with me in car
--Ranchos stay at 5 on rear unless I unload down track 15-20' or so, then I loosen to 4.
--Strange Fronts start Full Loose extension and 6 on dampening
--I have three bump stops I can use in the front, but have never done so
--Setup to leave at 2000rpm off FB (Can adjust -200rpm or +400rpm)

[jmcarter]

What George said, you want to minimize front extension, loosening front shocks is going to slow reaction; all depending on it still hooking of course...a wider stiffer slick will help as well.