Lifter rule in Stock

[junior barns]

Looking at this diagram it's the way I have wired mine. But it still has a constant hot wire running to the alternator. Could you run this wire to the main switch and then to the battery ?? And if so how big of a switch (amp wise) should we use?

[ALMACK]

Originally Posted by junior barns

Looking at this diagram it's the way I have wired mine. But it still has a constant hot wire running to the alternator. Could you run this wire to the main switch and then to the battery ?? And if so how big of a switch (amp wise) should we use?

Only if you run it to the source side of the switch.

If you kill the main switch, you kill engine power.
You kill engine power, you kill the alt.

If I wire the alt. to the switched side of the main ( that feeds the fuse box), the engine will still run if the main disconnect is off because the alt. is still feeding 12v to the fuse box while the engine is still running.


Thus the location of the alt. wire on the source side of the main switch, not the fuse box side.


edit: Sorry Jeff if I de-railed your thread

[Sean Marconette]

Originally Posted by Mike Taylor 3601

Probably 95% of hydraulic cam stockers have solid lifters already and have had for many years,they just have .015'' travel in the pushrod seat and are considered hydraulic by the rules,it is a solid lifter with the pushrod seat cut for .015'' travel,nothing hydraulic about it and .010-.012'' of that travel is taken out when the valve is set depending on lash the lifter is compressing .003-.005'' the only difference is the lash is between the pushrod seat and lifter body rather than between the cam and lifter.
This rule doesn't change the need for ceramic,tool steel or whatever kind of special lifter is being used,it doesn't change the cam profiles they are already solid lifter profiles.
Only thing it changes is a hyd. roller that has a true hyd. roller lifter which has probably been modified to only have .015'' travel will now be able to take them out and replace with a much lighter solid roller lifter,which won't make any difference because they are already running a spring strong enough to handle the extra lifter weight,so maybe they get a few more runs out of their springs.
Nothing to get excited about.
Mike Taylor 3601

Exactly, and well said Mike!!!

[Coleydog]

Originally Posted by ALMACK

Only if you run it to the source side of the switch.

If you kill the main switch, you kill engine power.
You kill engine power, you kill the alt.

If I wire the alt. to the switched side of the main ( that feeds the fuse box), the engine will still run if the main disconnect is off because the alt. is still feeding 12v to the fuse box while the engine is still running.


Thus the location of the alt. wire on the source side of the main switch, not the fuse box side.


edit: Sorry Jeff if I de-railed your thread

I might be looking at the diagram wrong but it looks like the battery is not killed by the switch, hot wire still on post along with the ground??
The alt and big red wire to sol. would have to be on the other side of main switch to completely shut off current from the bat, pourpse of main disconnect. That alt wire is still hot according to that drawing.

[Darrel Goheen]

I've been trying to figure out for years why NHRA requires the master switch to be on the positive cable. It should be on the negative cable. It would be much safer and easier. No battery ground and everything will be killed. Somebody please explain to me why I'm wrong.

[Bob Mulry]

Originally Posted by Darrel Goheen

I've been trying to figure out for years why NHRA requires the master switch to be on the positive cable. It should be on the negative cable. It would be much safer and easier. No battery ground and everything will be killed. Somebody please explain to me why I'm wrong.

Hi
If there is an accident and the positive and negative crushed would still have a short and you have not addressed the issue of protecting both the front and rear batteries............
If wanted you could control the front battery with a constant duty rely.......
Sorry I hijacked thisthread....

Bob

[Darrel Goheen]

Originally Posted by Bob Mulry

Hi
If there is an accident and the positive and negative crushed would still have a short and you have not addressed the issue of protecting both the front and rear batteries............
If wanted you could control the front battery with a constant duty rely.......
Sorry I hijacked thisthread....

Bob

That is correct Bob. For safety reasons I don't think a front and rear battery should be allowed. Also why is a cut off switch only required for rear mounted batteries?

[Bob Mulry]

Originally Posted by Darrel Goheen

That is correct Bob. For safety reasons I don't think a front and rear battery should be allowed. Also why is a cut off switch only required for rear mounted batteries?

Hi,

They should allow a maximum of 2 batteries and allow them to be located in the trunk for safety reasons, much the same that was done to allow..............

Front disc brakes......
Aluminum seats..........
Roller rocker arms....
Solid rear axles in IRS cars.......
Aftermarket rods, pistons and valve train.....
Full cages that extend through the firewall.........
I am still trying to figure out the safety advantage of an aluminum radiator...

I could go on and on about the STOCK rule changes for safety, but I will stop now..........

Bob

[junior barns]

Sorry on hijacking this thread but when did NHRA allow aluminum radiators as replacement? I have been out of racing for a while!

[Tony Goodman]

The Safety people at the track would know that all door cars have their battterys in the back and controlled by the master cutoff switch.