Re: You got to be kidding?
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Re: You got to be kidding?
I'm at Numidia Dragway every weekend from April through October, anytime you're feeling luckly, show up and put a number on the window just like you do in super stock!:p
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Re: You got to be kidding?
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Re: You got to be kidding?
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Re: You got to be kidding?
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The is not need to use a castellated nut with a cotter pin. An aviation/aerospace specific quality locking nut should be more than sufficient. The fasteners shown below are what you will find typically in any commercial aircraft flying in the skies everyday. I suggest the following fasteners: Bolt: AN3-4A (Has drilled Shank for Cotter Pin) Washer: AN960-10 Locking Nut: AN363-10 MS9321-10 NAS1587-3 MS21046C3 (High Temperature) In the event NHRA decides to use a castellated nut and cotter pin, the part numbers are as follows: Cotter Pin: MS9245-22 (Corrosion Resistant/High Temperature) Castellated Nut: AN310-C3 (Corrosion Resistant) MS17825-3 (Castellated, Corrosion Resistant Self Locking Nut) If you need the technical specifications or data to substantiate the use of any of these fasteners, just let me know or send me a PM. |
Re: You got to be kidding?
I'm surprised steel self locking nuts aren't accepted. The recip airplanes (that's how old I am) that I used to work on used them to hold the exhaust on. Silver plated. I still have some. Our collectors don't get as hot, nor nearly as long as the header pipes did at the jugs on those engines (P&W 4360s). I have them on my car, have never had one loosen. Had castle nuts & keys a lot of places, but not at the jugs. I will probably just tig weld mine.
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Re: You got to be kidding?
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Re: You got to be kidding?
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The parts I listed are very affordable and the Silver plated ones are still available too. I totally agree with you, a reciprocating engine generates a lot more vibration than a race engine would. I believe the use of castellated nut and cotter pin is an overkill. In my years in the aviation business, I have never seen an aviation spec self locking nut come loose. |
Re: You got to be kidding?
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I have a couple of tubes that slip in to my collectors with the remaining tubes welded. I would like to know if any tethers or additional tabs will be required for applications such as mine? I have learned not to assume anything regarding tech. Tracy |
Re: You got to be kidding?
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