The car has grounds as follows.

Braided body ground to block. ground from block to frame, ground from battery to both the engine and frame - the MSD is grounded on the battery negative. I have a ground wire from the ateering column to the engine as well. Of course there are other grounds for switches and stuff.

I have disconnected all of the rpm switches that operated the retard unti and have the box wired as ignition only. I've unpluged the tach, removed the high rpm limit chip.

I was attempting to cure the double or tripple pop at the launch AND the light pop at the top of the gears. All I did was add a shielded ground and now the thing won't start - well it starts and burps and grunts then quite. I've even reversed the green and purple wires in the lead as a validation.

On Oh S--t I didn't mention. When I was getting ready to change the cable I thought I had turned the master switch off but hadn't and of course the first thing I did was short out the main (heavy to battery) lead to the MSD box. Not for long as it only went CRACK once. I wouldn't have thought that would hurt the box, but who knows. I wired it back to begin with the same way it was wired before - timing was checked before I did the work - yes it was skipping around and I did use a non degree wheel style lite. I would have thought at WORST I would have had a car that would run as it did with no improvement but also with no loss in power. Now I have a car that won't even run. I've gone over the wiring a half dozen times.

HELP

Peace, Rev.

I'm sure that did not do the box any good. Most of that stuff has some fusible traces built in to prevent extreme damage in case of a short like that, I'd say you blew a trace.

Can you not run the engine on just a distributor and coil? Just a question, not knowing what distributor you have.

Alan Roehrich


Bring "AA" classes to NHRA Stock Eliminator!

It's an MSD pro billit distributor. Don't think it will operate that way.

This has rapidly become a pain in the rump... I hate electrical work. Engines are child's play compared to electric stuff for me.

Peace, Rev.

Correct, a Pro Billet (non "Ready to Run") does not have a module, just a magnetic pickup. It cannot fire a coil by itself.

To test the pickup, attach a voltmeter to the magnetic trigger wires (disconnect them from the box, you're testing the distributor) and set it to "AC volts". Spin the distributor, either with the engine, or by hand if you have it out. It should make 2 <-> 6 volts AC.

The signs actually point to a bad box, but check the distributor, and try a "known good" coil.

Alan Roehrich


Bring "AA" classes to NHRA Stock Eliminator!

Got a spare box?

Other quick tests with a volt/ohm meter:

Make sure that when running, you have 13 volts or better on the positive leads for the MSD.

There should be little resistance and no voltage on the ground wires.

Alan Roehrich


Bring "AA" classes to NHRA Stock Eliminator!

Replace the coil wire & check the carbon contact in the dist cap. Take the on/off master switch out of the system. For test purposes put all the connecting wires on one side of the switch.

Adger Smith

replace the rotor cap in distributor

david cron

Tested the box, it is working. MSD feels it's the pickup in the distributor. Dave, haven't heard from ytou in a long time. Hope all's well. We miss Music City.... Especially now that we have a class car.

The cap and rotor will be replaced too. Hope that's all there is to this problem.

Peace, and THANKS everyone, Rev.

Koop!
As you know by now, Wally Parks, Tom Compton, Len and your local Div director OWES you a new distributor. (And a case of your favortie oil,) So simply make that phone call and I believe it will be taken care of.

Your pal in need,
(indeed?)
BF



cheese.......







"The future isn't what it used to be."