Re: Radial slick Q?
 

Excellent, Thank you

Re: Radial slick Q?
 

You can find more info here under "Specs":

https://www.hoosiertire.com/Drtire.htm

Re: Radial slick Q?
 

M/T #3066R 30x9-15 Radials, 17-18psi. I've run 21+ in them like a lot of people, but that can bite you on a marginal track. At the lower pressure, they won't spin unless there is physically something on the track, or the chords have been hanging out of them for awhile. ;) No glue, no tubes, no screws.

Been 1.37 60' "on kill" at 3,335# in perfect conditions. Typically 1.44-1.46 at 3400# in bracket mode. I run these tires full time, even bracket racing.

Re: Radial slick Q?
 

WOW! So I purchased the Hoosier radials that Billy Baker suggested. I took my car out this past weekend and it picked up even more than you guys figured it would. My best ever prior to this was a 10.96. This weekend it went a 10.84 second pass. The first pass I had to lift at 1000 ft, the track was so green, I was going straight as an arrow then all of a sudden it came out from under me and I crossed the center line twice. In 18 years of racing this same car that has never happened, so my first thought was the slicks, but after I talked with track officials, they checked it right after my pass, they said it was because they had scraped the track at top end and there wasn't enough compound down. I waited and let a bunch more cars go down before I went again, last to passes were great.
Thanks for the input guys. By the way, I ran 20 and 21 lbs, with no change, 60ft were identical.

Re: Radial slick Q?
 

Tony,

Your good at 20-22 lbs.. If you ever get on a great starting line, pump them up to 26-28 and see how much you can PU... Try a couple lbs at a time till they stop hooking... You also don't need to do big burnouts !
They also make 94 " tall tire to go along with the standard 92.5 " tall..
Yes, they really work great ... You won't be SORRY................

Re: Radial slick Q?
 

Interesting thread on the radials, some good information.

A question or so if I may. I've heard that in order to realise the best results from the radials, your suspension needs sorted out really well, true or false?

If it's a new car, would it be better to set it up and work the bugs out on bias ply slicks first? Then when the vehicle is somewhat settled, change over to radials?