Re: '69 Chevelle master cylinder question
 

My 68 Chevelle wagon has the OEM drum brake unit. It has the stock drums all the way around, and it holds on the line pretty well. As to the way the car drives,it goes down the track very well, but without sway bars, it does get the body roll on turns.Rear suspension is OEM with Lakewood no hop bars. Edelbrock adjustable upper rear arms and boxed lowers will be added in the future. A good rear bar wouldn't hurt things,either.

Re: '69 Chevelle master cylinder question
 

Dan,
If booster mounted with 4 studs you'll probaly want to move master to top holes,my 79 malibu was that way originally I installed with master in center of the four holes brakes worked OK but not great found out later that manual brake setup had master mounted on the top set of holes,increased ratio made huge difference in braking power.
MAKE sure you have pushrod retained so it can't come out,some masters have just a countersunk area for the rod to set in I usaully drill that a little deeper so there is absoulutely no way for the rod to come out and fab something so pedal can't pull rod out of master anyway.
I don't want to read in your N/D stories about the your manual brake conversion gone bad and crashing the family wagon.LOL
I like reading your stories,good luck with your project.
Most of time if rear is @ stock height or lower w/factory sway bar,body roll should'nt be bad. Mike Taylor 3601

Re: '69 Chevelle master cylinder question
 

The wagon is going to be a K, L, M car with a 255. The whole premise here is that Thomas wants to race every weekend, whether its for $5 or 5 million, and a stocker seems to be more suited for that as opposed to a SS car. We both love the wagon, and after watching Jody make everyone look silly, well......

After everyone's input, both here, pm's and emails, it looks like the budget is going up and the air bags are going back to inventory. Although it looks bitchin', I don't think a 12 flat car is going to need the Alf W set up, and the BMR anti-roll looks pretty nice, so I'm planning to go that direction. Thanks Greg B. The master assembly bolted onto 4 studs as you said Mike. If Alex's deal is a bolt on unit, that sounds like me! And I'll be sure to make a positive return stop for the pedal. I really don't like Thomas all that much most of the time, but I don't want the car wrecked, lol...

The car already has approved aftermarket lower trailing arms. I don't think I need to replace the upper assembly with anything trick, thoughts?

And as for body mount bushings, they look like a lot of fun to replace. All I've been able to find are poly mounts. Does anyone know of a solid mount, or do we have to make them ourselves?

Thanks again everyone!

Re: '69 Chevelle master cylinder question
 

Dan, while I agree a 12 flat car don't need Alf's suspension, the truth is the car will work better for many reasons and no one's anti roll bar functions as well as the rear housing cause that is the anti roll bar when using Alf's setup.

Re: '69 Chevelle master cylinder question
 

Body mounts = hockey pucks get ones that say made in Canada ,cheap ones break.---Trevor

Re: '69 Chevelle master cylinder question
 

I think a 255 is a good pick. With the right suspension set up that car will be capable of running faster than 12.00 flat. With our wagon we don't have a lot of expensive trick stuff as far as suspension components and it hooks pretty hard and goes straight as an arrow. Very easy to drive.

Re: '69 Chevelle master cylinder question
 

Wagons are cool!

Good luck with the project, Dan! :)

Re: '69 Chevelle master cylinder question
 

http://www.powerhouseperformance.ca/...products_id=68
Try this web site for the parts you are looking for regarding the body roll amd solid body mounts.

JimmieC

Re: '69 Chevelle master cylinder question
 

My mommy didnt need no fancy shmancy brakes to win with that car !

Re: '69 Chevelle master cylinder question
 

H and R Parts and Stuff makes a nice anti roll bar for the A bodies.Might not need it on a small block stocker though.You can get by by just welding a plate on the bottom of your upper control arms.You can also just use the stock rubber bushings also.