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-   -   More brake holding power (https://classracer.com/classforum/showthread.php?t=39957)

Billy Nees 04-02-2012 06:47 PM

Re: More brake holding power
 
Jim, Mike and Tom are correct. If you removed the booster you should mount the MC in the two top holes left from removing the booster. Then raise the pivot on the pedal. If you're lucky, the hole is already in the pedal. I was assuming you had done that already. Still, with a turbo car look at the Vista Cruiser rear brakes.

Mark Yacavone 04-03-2012 02:02 AM

Re: More brake holding power
 
Rick , Whatever you end up with for shoes, take them down to Phoenix Brake and Axle and have them relined with the good material as full length (secondary) shoes..

Mid 70's Malibus, Cutlasses and LeMans mid size cars have the 11x2 shoes...

Jeff Lee 04-03-2012 02:39 AM

Re: More brake holding power
 
Neil once had a source for asbestos brake lining material. He also used to use material designed for fork-lift brake shoes; very soft stuff and holds great.
Ask Neil...

Jim Wahl 04-03-2012 09:28 AM

Re: More brake holding power
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Billy Nees (Post 319187)
Rick, what you may want to look at is late 60s early 70s Olds Vista Cruisers. As I recall they had 3"x 9.5" rear drums and shoes instead of the 2x9.5"s on your "bird. You will probably need backing plates and all but there should be a way to make them fit!
Sean, GM cars don't have proportioning valves. They bias the brakes with MC bore size and WC size.

Billy could make it work with what he has in his kitchen!!! Listen to this guy Rick! He is the king of "Hey! I know how to make that work!". Jim

.

Run to Rund 04-03-2012 10:46 AM

Re: More brake holding power
 
John Andreotti at Ott's Friction Supply has some soft material that won't glaze and stops well on the top end, yet holds the car well at the line. I believe Abex makes it and it is tan in color.

Rick Unterseh 04-03-2012 11:54 AM

Re: More brake holding power
 
Thanks everyone for your suggestions, looks like I'm gonna be busy getting this thing to hold. I hated losing class AND second round, so I'm making sure this doesn't happen again.

Dave1695 04-03-2012 12:25 PM

Re: More brake holding power
 
You went the wrong way on both rear wheel cylinders and master cylinder bore size. Smaller wheel cylinders will push harder on the brake shoes and a smaller bore master cylinder will generate more line pressure, at the calipers and wheel cylinders. Use a one inch bore master, 7/8th inch bore wheel cylinders and check line pressure at the bleeder screws. you need minimum 950 to 1100 PSI at front and should get 800 to 900 at rear without any adjustable proportioning valve in line. Plumb the master cylinder direct to the brakes for maximum pressure.

njk53 04-03-2012 02:30 PM

Re: More brake holding power
 
Does anyone know if you can get asbestos brake pads in Mexico?

Mark Yacavone 04-03-2012 03:35 PM

Re: More brake holding power
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark Yacavone (Post 319361)
Rick , Whatever you end up with for shoes, take them down to Phoenix Brake and Axle and have them relined with the good material as full length (secondary) shoes..

Mid 70's Malibus, Cutlasses and LeMans mid size cars have the 11x2 shoes...

Sorry, that would be :

Arizona Brake and Clutch

2211 N Black Canyon Highway
Phoenix, AZ 85009
(602) 256-7966

Myron Piatek 04-03-2012 04:05 PM

Re: More brake holding power
 
If you do some research and ask around, you can still find organic pads and shoes at the parts store. Probably not as good at cold holding ability like specialty relined stuff, but definitely better than the usual semi-metallic. Lightly scuffing the rear shoes with sandpaper to eliminate any glaze build-up helps also. I do it whenever I swap rear tires from side-to-side.


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