Re: Starting problem
 

As a side note, be sure to use plenty of solder when attaching lugs to cables. You don't wnat just enough to hold it together, you want enough to make all of the strands into one, effectively, making it harder for corrosion to intrude.

Re: Starting problem
 

Dave, also good advice. I will put the cable end in a vice test fit my cable then using a small torch I'll "fill" the cable end with solder about 1/4 way up then i'll push my cable into the solder and allow it to cool. Works great and you CANNOT pull the cable out,put a crimp in it a little shrink tube and you're set.

Re: Starting problem
 

Thanks for all the info , All my connections are good , Have a #1 from the battery to the Ford style relay which I was told are the best ? Then from there I go 2.5' with #2 to the starter , All grounds are on bare metal , Not sure what the voltage drops too when cranking , What should it drop too ? Car is charged bettween rounds and I run an alternator , The voltage is fine for the entire run , never has gone under 12.9 volts , Is it possible to have good voltage and low amperage ?

Re: Starting problem
 

9.6 would be the minimum allowed cranking voltage.Typically 10.8 or more is normal cranking voltage depending on starter amperage.It is possible for an alternator to have "normal " voltage and low amp output.Normal charging voltage would be approximately 13.8 to 14.2 volts.Have you tried disconnecting the alternator?

Re: Starting problem
 

Ok, have you done any testing yet? You really need some information to work with here, voltage drop testing is 1 sure fire way of finding your problem assuming your battery is up to the task. Kind of long winded to explain how to do it so if you like you can go to yellow bullet.com in the electrical section there is a pretty good explanation of how to do it and the results you'd expect to see. Give it a try and see what the results lead to. Good luck, Joe

Re: Starting problem
 

Boy, that brings back memories. From 1974 to 1981 I worked for Essex Wire/United Technologies and the department we worked in made that exact switch.. 8800 of them per shift,2 shifts a day. 125 women and 4 guys. ( The guys were... 2 maintenance men and 2 material handers. I was one of the maintenance guys.)There were 2 lines. The FORD line, and the Aftermarket line. Whenever we would get a new piece of equipment, a riveter or such, we would put it in the Ford line and take the old one over and put it in the aftermarket. Ford inspectors were always in looking over the parts that we were making .We had press rooms and so forth that made all the copper washers etc. If Ford rejected it, we just used it in the aftermarket line. Unless it was totally junk of course then we were forced to trash can it. They set the finished product "test sets" at a more forgiving voltage in the aftermarket line so as to not have to piss with that line as much. Anybody that says OEM and aftermarket are the same? Maybe they are now, but back then you got what you paid for....
On a side note, all the expensive cars like Lincoln ects, headlight switches and relays got pure silver contacts, where the Sable ects would get a copper contact w/a silver "tip" on it...But the switch from the outside LOOKED identical...Only way you could tell the difference was the part #.
And its been Oh so many years, but I'm thinking that across the 2 main contacts while engaged @ 12 volts the voltage had to be .2 volts or less for that switch to be considered good...

The entire plant picked up and went to Mexico in the early 90's. At its high point there was 1500 people working there. Thanks for jogging my memory Tom, I had some good times in that place....

Re: Starting problem
 

Tom, can you tell me where you find the AMETEK./ Prestolite metal case solenoids?
I have tried a coupe of the major chain Auto Parts houses and they are not able to find it.
I started to send this in a PM but thought others might want to know the answer also if you answered it in the forums.
Thanks
Rick Cates

Re: Starting problem
 

i agree ground or poor solenoid just had a similar issue on our Ford class A motorhome

these are the only starter solenoids we use on our cars and trucks or sell any more even the Motorcrafts are now made in China.



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