Re: Torqueflite problem
 

From personal experience, AMC converters are NEVER correct out of the box. We check everything now. Crank pilot length & diameter, End play between trans & converter, starter engagement etc. Don't take it for granted on anything AMC that is a direct fit. Not to sound like a negative Nancy but its a fact of owning an oddball.

Re: Torqueflite problem
 

I couldnt agree more there is no such thing as direct fit with amc. My father inlaw ask me once if the parts we used on our race car were direct fit designed for that car and i almost broke down in laughter

Re: Torqueflite problem
 

You guys are so right .
If it comes in a box and says fits AMC , you know it wont ! Especially if it comes from California !
I've been racing and building AMC's since '72 and there are damn few parts I didn't have to massage to make fit correctly.

Re: Torqueflite problem
 

well after a new stator shaft and inspection of the transmission we got the converter back in did some measuring and figured it was simply flush with the flexplate no pullout. so we took the converter and had .120 taken out of the mounting pads which should give as the play needed hopefully.

Re: Torqueflite problem
 

I would make sure the hub of the converter doesn't bottom out in the back of the crankshaft also.

Re: Torqueflite problem
 

I agree, if the lugs don't bottom on the flexplate then the pilot is bottoming in the crank. That's a no no , you do not want to have the converter bolts pull back on the flexplate , so the gap needs to be filled with a shim . If the lugs hit the flexplate first, then you are OK .

Re: Torqueflite problem
 

we will look into this but it seemed like we had plenty of room for the snout to go in the crank. but we will double check i really don't want to take this apart again.

Re: Torqueflite problem
 

OK so the transmission is back on the engine with the pads machined and we have a 1/8th inch gap inbetween the converter and flex plate before bolting them together. and doing some measuring before we put the trans in the pads hit the flexplate about a 1/8th inch before the snout bottoms out in the crank. so hopefully this time we don't damage the stator shaft. we also found out that since we have to space the transmission back 1/4 inch the factory guides don't center it and that the converter snout wasn't slipping in the back of the crank locking everything up when pulled together even though the pads weren't even touching the flexplate. so through some careful manipulation and pulling the trans up slowly we got everything together snout in the crank and everything turning nice and free. so car and engine/trans will go together this weekend.