Re: Electric Water Pump damage
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Lyn,here's one from Champion rad it screws into the water drain.Summit also sells them. gsa612
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Re: Electric Water Pump damage
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To protect aluminum the anode has to be more active than the aluminum, which would be a magnesium anode. To protect iron you can use zinc as an anode. To protect copper and brass, an aluminum anode will work, |
Re: Electric Water Pump damage
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Re: Electric Water Pump damage
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That won't work.. He needs magnesium.. |
Re: Electric Water Pump damage
Another thing to consider, in some cases a rubber-mounted radiator with an electric fan attached to the radiator core needs a ground wire from the radiator core to chassis ground.
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Re: Electric Water Pump damage
Looks like the pump has not been sealed well to the engine or cover and water has bee getting between the pump housing and the gasket causing the corrosion issue. I run what ever water I can find from home or the track and drain my system every day at the track and never leave water in the system when the car is stored between races. I usually leave the radiator cap off when the radiator is empty. My water pump is at least 25 years old and still working. Maybe try coating the gasket with some better sealer when the engine is assembled as the corrosion seems to be in the gasket area and not in the are where the Impeller is located
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Re: Electric Water Pump damage
Thanks for all the info. My radiator is copper/brass. I will try the radiator ground,and the anode. It is also damaging my aluminum timing cover,and thermostat housing.
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Re: Electric Water Pump damage
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Thanks, Bill |
Re: Electric Water Pump damage
Jegs has radiator anodes.
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Re: Electric Water Pump damage
The point of an anode is to put something in the water stream that is weaker than the other metals the water passes over. Then the bad stuff in the water erodes it instead of the stronger stuff. Magnesium is a weak metal. Since they decompose they need to be replaced regulary. That reminds me.....
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