Re: Tech west / 7AL2 problem
Have you check the timing while the problem is happening ?
Timing mark is always rock solid for me . Is the ECU controlling the timing advance? What ECU are you using for the FI? Are you using a crank trigger or distributor trigger ? |
Re: Tech west / 7AL2 problem
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Re: Tech west / 7AL2 problem
Rob PM Sent
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Re: Tech west / 7AL2 problem
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Re: Tech west / 7AL2 problem
What does the battery voltage do when it blubbers?
Plates in the battery shorting or a bad ground? |
Re: Tech west / 7AL2 problem
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Re: Tech west / 7AL2 problem
Rob,
I had a water pump putting out RFI that caused mine to have a high RPM miss fire. The miss showed up when I had the pump fail and I put on a spare that I was carrying. Turned the pump off during a run and the miss quit. These electrical gremlins can be tough to find and fix. Good luck. |
Re: Tech west / 7AL2 problem
My boy uses them and I do not on identical Stockers.
I have never seen a performance gain either way back and forth from their box. Search their feedback on here and elsewhere. |
Re: Tech west / 7AL2 problem
The advantage to what TechWest does is faster switching giving more multiple spark at low RPM and at a higher RPM than a stock MSD. If you can add more fuel you will improve.
The basics I was taught were an engine will use as much ignition voltage/amperage as it needs, you really can't have too much ignition but you can not have enough. The truth is we are not making the cylinder pressure to require a 7 series MSD most of us are fine with a 6 series. There are probably as many racers who have had a good experience with TechWest as bad. Hopefully they will make things right for those at a loss. |
Re: Tech west / 7AL2 problem
I think I finally found my problem. I bought a tech west box from another racer. We switched it out yesterday. There is definitely something wrong with my box. Even though MSD says it’s fine. On top of just totally acting up at times. When the car was cold it didn’t exactly idle great below 13-1500 rpms. And in the winter of for some reason I needed to start it and the car was cold. You had to feed it some throttle to keep it going. I figured it was mostly my tune up. But have never iced the car at the track. And I usually want it about 130° at the beginning of a run. So it’s never been a problem really. We’ll it was 38° in the shop yesterday. And it’ll fire right up now. We started it and shut it off hot, cold, got it hot and filled it off. Probably started it 30 times yesterday and 15-20 today. It’s fine and you can literally tell it idles better. So we switched it back again today. And you can tell something is going on. Not saying Pats work cured it. But if you have a suspect MSD box. Not sure I’d send it to MSD to be checked. I’m going to send this box to Tech West and let him test it. But after several years. I think I found my electrical problem FINALLY. Now I just gotta get me fixed so I can go racing again.
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