Re: DP #24 Engine failure....
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Re: DP #24 Engine failure....
Drooze,
Be aware that most rod companies do not offer "bolt upgrades" on their budget I beam rods for a reason. And it isn't to keep the cost down. They basic bolts in premium rods to keep the cost down, and then they offer upgrades for those. There's not much sense in putting a $150 set of premium bolts in a set of $250 budget I beam rods, because the bolt is way stronger than the rod. And then you'll probably need to spend another $100 or so to resize them. And Billy is correct, it might not be just you, your dad, and your wallets that you are hurting here. In many ways. |
Re: DP #24 Engine failure....
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Re: DP #24 Engine failure....
Understood, and youre right, the bolt replacment (and its a direct fit) is most definatley stronger than the rod itself. But right now thats the least of my issues.
In regards, we didnt send an untested car down the track, I forgot we also ran T&T the Wed prior AND the day before the Atlanta Div , so the car had some 15 passes on it before the old man took it down the track. We had shift points and rev limits set very convervitive. Last shift points were 7200, I just looked at the logs from the prior pass. I will offer no apologies on that. Trust me, if we had any inking that would happen I wouldnt have let him take it down the track. An oildown in staging is the best place to do it obviously. Not only for the track, but for US or whoever was driving. I talked to Stanton this morning, Stanton was given a list of parts to USE, it was what was approved, its not like they went to him and said build us a good engine, Mopar Engineers, (and I dont think any are still there) basically gave him a list made the arrangments and said here do this. Then worked with the NHRA to get things approved, why, why in gods name they choose these rods is beyond me. The rods though (in our case) werent the issue, although I have heard others have had out of round issues at high rpm. So what should I do, sit on a car until all the really awesome parts are approved....yeah well die waiting. Or should I try to do the best with what we have and can ? I take the second option. And Im not cavalier about the oildown, Im going to fit the car with a diaper for OUR safety, in this car it will be no big nuisance. there is adequate clearance around and under big time. Ive actually considered and am considering a custom alloy pan since there is so much clearance much like we use on the GP bikes, and Charlies Oil Pans (are about 1/2 mile from me and hes a heck of a guy, so if we can make some measurments and fab something).....you think an oildown on a car is an issue , waitll you downshift at 12k into a turn and spray a 3in WM3 tire on a bike with goo....thats a whole new feeling of oh ****....:eek: Back to my phone, Ive got the "good" answer now , just to make it happen by tommorow........and it aint cheap but well....the good answer seldom is....Ill have 1/2 as much in my rods as the rest of the engine.....1500 for a set of flippin rods.....ayeeeeeeee.... Quote:
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Re: DP #24 Engine failure....
Read the stock rules... A fabricated pan is not going to happen unless you get it approved by NHRA.
Question: You stated in a previous post "The rods weren't the issue". Then why do you need a 1500 set of rods? Just to make it happen tomorrow? If you want to save your pocket book you need to take things a litlle slower and learn about your combination instead of blazing away. Do some real long term testing and tuning and development work. With the do it tomorrow or right now outlook you are your own worst enemy. Esp with a new combination. |
Re: DP #24 Engine failure....
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In OUR case the rods werent the issue, the bolts were. BUT others have had issues with the rods. So bolts then become the issue for the SCAT Rods.....Ok....1 problem solved 1 created....the Journals on a DP Crank are 2.100 , they are also widened to accept the Chevy 6.200 / 2.100 / .927 pin rod. Now, I can "try" to get someone I trust to make it happen in short order on the crank thats not going to happen. AND then Ive still got **** rods with good bolts. Kinda like putting a dress on a pig in my book. Soooo...I talked to Bruce B this morning and we went through some things, Currently for the 5.7 which is what we are building there is no assy weight listed. That was an issue with anything but the stock rod. (SCAT in this case) BUT Manley has a good pro series H beam, I hear its good anyway. AND its the only accpeted replacment for the 5.7....it uses stock journal and bearing sizes. So...thats good. The price isnt.....the ONLY other people working on getting a rod approved are K1, and its about 6 weeks off in the "cycle" ok....so its cheaper its an overseas H beam....but is it better than the Manley ? Well the Manley I beam is made here, forged here and machined here in the states....so.....doubtful, then what Ive got is "the RIGHT" answer..... Im not going to put a dress on a pig again now that I have an APPROVED option, even Bruce wasnt aware that the min weights on the rods had been lowered to 600, and that then made the already approved manley rod legal for the 6.1 as well which it was listed for, we went through EVERYTHING today.... Now that I have the good answer I will proceed with it. in 6 weeks from now there is going to be no better answer.....not that I see... Ive spent 6 months learning everything DP, talking to everyone in the know about the DP stuff and making lists, I wont say I know more than anyone I dont...thats the nice thing about the DP "Confederation" is it is a collective effort of many of us trying to find the good answers, what was shared with me will be shared, back and vice versa. We are all in the same boat as it were. That was a large portion for the reasoning of this thread. To share information, and responsed and observation as well as conclusions and resolutions with other DP owners. It In my book has led me to where I am in short order, I would call that a resounding success, not just for us, but for all who follow. |
Re: DP #24 Engine failure....
Chris, As a "class racer in remission" I would like to ad my thought as to another avenue that I think might well be worth considering. Having gone thru the same thing that most stock and super stock racer have at 1 time in their racing career,engine failure, I would like to suggest this option to you. Please consider finding a very good local or regional engine builder that has the means and knowledge to build your power. I think that if you are under a time limitation, you must consider buying your power. At least consider buying 1 good "bullet", and if nothing else, try to duplicate it. Talk to a good engine builder for his input. You have several in the area that can either help you or advise you where to find power. I would suggest talking to someone like Gary Russell, Joey Wilkes,and even consider buying a good "bullet" from one of the players like Johns, Duel, Tueton. Or consider Mopar power builder out of state , even if it is on the "left coast". You need to explore your options..Just because you can build a 15,000 rpm motorcycle engine doesn't mean that this is your cup of tea. Outsourcing power is not a bad think, if it were guys like Woodro Josey and bulders of that caliber won't have been building for years. Also if you can buy at least 1 good motor, you would then have a spare if you must continue down the path you are on. Someone once told me, just pile your money on the kitchen floor and light it, then you'll still have your free think. I don't claim to be an engine builder, just having owned and raced stock classes since 1966 of and on. Not trying to "bash you" just giving you another point of view. You owe it to yourself to explore all of the options. Your schedule will lighten up, and you can take a lot of the load off of your shoulders. Myron Stutes X class racer and IHRA record holder.
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Re: DP #24 Engine failure....
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A "phased" approach as it were, each with better components as they came available, the first 2 motors bottoms were "as delivered" from Ma Mopar....that didnt work so well :D This one, well its my "stab" at it, I am under no illusions it will be good or even survive. It is what I want to try however, that is part of the whole adventure for us. We have gathered 85% of the parts for the 3 motors, now the first will go together, the second the old man wants his "stab" at, we him and I are and always have been in a good and friendly (obviously) competiton with each other....it is one of the things that drives us personally the inside competition. We chose to do the 5.7's because we had 2 new ones sitting here for this project for almost 2 years collecting dust we paid nothing for (actually when we sold the FI equipment etc off them they have paid us) So...it is a low dollar venture, the rods and I got better pricing as a dealer now, well....they are the single most expensive item the total bottom end cost will be around 4k now, parts, labor, etc. We have talked with several of the builders, Indy, (and duell himself and considered buying his "old" motor from Indy) as well as a few of the others like Irvs builder and some others. That is "underway" but what we would "like" to do is .... well heres how it plays out. Most are running the 6.1 now.....it will get factored up and we cant compete directly with Duell or Johns at the moment , we knew that all along and as many many posts here will say planned to go with the 5.7 after Gainesville. That was why. Here is the reason and "Zeeee Plan before Zee Germans get here" But well be the first to the track with the 5.7 , anything and everything we learn specific to it, well well apply to the second 5.7 as well as some "new" ideas , if our baseline moly and ceramic coatings worked, then well add some DLC's and others, if not then well adjust our plan on the second 5.7 Meantime We will be playing "ahead" of the established curve on the 5.7, different header configs I had made (a 3 step instead of the 2 that Johns and Duell and others are running) Soooo.....F-B? Will be our playgound while they are smacking at each other in AA and A...... Plus as others learn and share on the chassis/converter/rear and other combos and share with us and we with them....well, the rest of the car will move forward as well... When we have learned as much as we can about the combo as whole.... Well take what we learned works, what dosent, and have a builder do a 6.1 for us, the third and final for the year. At that point, well its gonna be dicey and tight in AA with these, and I wholly expect that the car will be AA only by then, but with what we learned at relativly low dollar investment in the 5.7's we will get the 6.1 "bullet" and Im also under no illusion that especially by then that will be what is needed with a 6.1, also by then, the 5.7's that will be hitting the track will be playing in OUR field, a field that we have already been in and pissed on as it were. They will be in some ways playing our game and catchup with us, not us with them. That is "Zee Plan" , I dont know if its a good plan or not, but right now and all along it has been our plan, only time will tell. You didnt bash in any way....and youre idea is so good.....its part of "Zee Plan":D:eek::D |
Re: DP #24 Engine failure....
Super Stock GT with a 426 Hemi if its legal. Problem solved. Or start measuring for one of those oil retention diapers. :rolleyes:
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Re: DP #24 Engine failure....
I keep seeing coments about Scat rods. There is nothing wrong with them. I have used them for years, they came with ARP 2000 bolts. Never had to re-size one or correct the balance on a new one right out of the box. Never one single failure. Machining has always been dead nuts. I can't say that for Eagle and some others. Putting Manley rods in that one sure isn't going to cure anything. Valve to piston contact had nothing to do with that failure, nor did the rods.
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I am shocked at the fact the rods held and didnt break, for a budget engine I will definatley consider them. I will say the machining is like you said "dead nuts" on myself and others were suprised at a 300$ set of rods would be this accurate. One of the "issues" with the Scat rod it it requires the crank to be reground and journals widened to work. The manley does not. In addition the manley well....its a good rod, and good for 1000 hp in this series thats been proven in many other engines. I do know well never make that kind of power, but I cannot see a Scat rod (not the one we have) doing that. We got the real "bargain basement" of the scat rods. Most everyone sells good, better best and bargain....we got bargain. Im not bashing scat or dont mean to, the choice by whoever it was that this particular scat rod was chosen, and we were not given a choice ? Well that is were the real issue lies. And the bolts, we were led to believe the bolts were different and the 2000 series...they are not. Your right also we thanks to the help here have come to the conclustion netiher the rods or the PTV contact caused our failure, but rather the bolts if they didnt played a role. of the ones I personally took out 2 (1 on each journal) took another 20+ lbs of torque to get to their "stretch" and suggested torque range of 63 lbs.... yes 63 lbs... Having to take a stock crank and have it machined JUST to run these rods....when I can take a set of Manleys and they will run on the stock 2.125 journal and are better, have much better bolts and the same bearings HN, HXN, and more undersizes are available ? Well it makes sense to me anyway. K1 is getting an H beam approved, that may be an option down the road, but isnt now, and when it will ? At least 6 weeks away according to Tom over at K1 Chris |
Re: DP #24 Engine failure....
It is a basic engine....really nothing out of the ordinary. Bore/stroke/crank pins/rod length/piston and rod weights.......all similar to hundreds or thousands of engines........The design/sizing/parts are not unusual.....The heads are a bit different than a wedge or a porcupine like a BB Chev or a Cleveland Ford.......but nothing really out of the ordinary in the bottom end.
So, the diagnosis is simply that an overly agressive burnout led to an rpm that caused the rod bolts to break???.......... What exactly was the problem with the first engine? I don;t recall hearing any details of that one.... And what about the valve issue where the heads were pulled and fixed by the Pro Stock engine builder. Had some sort of dragging valve issue and hit a piston ???....... Personally I don' t see anything all that unusal in the bottom end. Shouldn't be all that hard to make one stay alive........ P.S. I have an SFI diaper on my dragster......Makes me feel a lot safer at 170.........I also have 2 sets of brakes and a parachute......... If you ever oiled your tires up from a blown engine you'll be wishing you had a diaper...... I did lose and engine in low gear and was fine, then a little voice in my head said go over on the grass so you don't slop up the racetrack.......not a good idea....came within inches of tagging the guardrail...... Grass next to the racing surface was another bad idea......luckily I did not hit anything...... |
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#2 Well it was several problems that were a combination of people faults, ours included to some degree, but Ma Mopar well she took care of it in stellar order for us , even having me up to Stantons to see the motor Dynod, dissasembled, inspected, checked and re-assembled....as well as some other work they were nice enough to include. Thats all that matters on that one to us. #3 That was MY issue, there was a binding on one of the rocker collar retainer shims against a rocker shaft stand. Or a very good possiblity of a lock condition between the keeper and the rocker Clearance was a bit tight (on a NORMAL engine its only about .060 there on a DP about .040 , and on ours with the moly retainers we "tried" well it was a possiblity. Changed retainer, changed shim clearances and it hasnt resurfaced, even the head guy agreed it was probably a "combination" issue with those 2 items. I like the thought of a diaper, saftey equiptment dosent scare me in the least, Ive landed on my head on a motorcycle several times at odd angles between 70-100 mph and walked away (ok not always walked away) but something to be said for saftey gear.... AND on our car the clearance around the engine would be fine with it. The only thing that worries me is oil temp...thats it.....but till I use one I wont know I guess.....I like the "Pan" idea better because well....a)it looks trick b)its got an airgap and a place to but my hotplate pan warmer :eek: c)Im used to it, and I cant pull the pan without pulling the motor, so it would just fasten on then and I could put a trapdoor in the bottom. Just me being me I guess... |
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Chris we share a lot of info and it's good........some that has nothing to do with racecars but more about things that happen and go wrong.....and it does happen all the time......
You refer to 2 wheeled stuff a lot and I can relate to that.....as I mentioned my son is a 2 wheel enthusiast....and has always been..... I always worried about him getting hurt on 2 wheels....and he has wrecked and been hurt. Usually on bicycles not motorcyles!. Lets see...there was the time he got his fingers tangled up in the chain and that one really sucked for me as well as him, cause I was in the ER as the doctor worked on his fingers....... I almost went out on that one! Whew! Then there was the time he went over the bars on a mountain bike race and got a stress fracture of the arm....no biggie there......and last year he collapsed the spokes on a bike and broke a finger and had a shoulder issue as well.....all no big deal in the big picture kind of view..... BUT one night on the way home from a questionable night out ??? He flipped his Toyota pickup near his home and climbed out of the overturned truck.....Waited fror the police.....told them a deer jumped in his path and he steered hard to avoid the deer and went over and landed with the drivers door down......He went home in some mild pain in the neck and shoulders....he was in pain all night and his wife urged him to go to the ER....good thing she did cause he had a broken neck at C-5 and could have easily been parylized. He was immobilized for 3 days........Neurosurgeons fixed him up and he was home with a neck collar and recovered fine.... So I know all about how stuff happens and hopefully things turn out good.....they sometimes do....... Racing mishaps are usually just time, money and parts and maybe some disappointment.......... You can get this thing running right......It's just a motor!!! |
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Wow.....I tell you I cant imagine how you felt, I being a parent, well my sons condition was like that from birth, thats just what we were dealt and it never bothered me. BUT my ex wives still say Im the worst "mother hen" there is when it comes to my kids.
I cant imagine the hell I put my parents through, or my ex wives. Ive done stupid things to myself and its like eh...ok...whatever 40 stiches here or there Ill be good as new, or skull fracture eh....but its me, I cant imagine.... Its a damm good thing us hard heads have someone to talk sense to us like your daughter in law. He and you are very fortunate. People say I blame myself for everything I cant Identify and thats why Im a believer in everything that happens to me is my fault, its from bikes, from a very early age my father had me building my own bikes from the ground up , age 9, not briggs minibikes, but factory Aermacchi racers. I always had a soft spot for Italian bikes, always will. AND we were buying em cheap after Harley folded and sold Aermacchi :) New in crates .... lol.....BUT Every single accident or failure on one wether it be from broken parts, bad wrenching, running something marginal , who can I blame , the cat ? All these failures were in some way , in the end all my fault, I didnt check on the bolts, I took it that they were something else like at least 2000's but nope...whose fault, MINE for not checking dammit, I should have known too....I should have when they told me the spec was 63 lbs...come on but I was distracted and it didnt register. Im "optimistic" it will happen good because Im too stubborn and stupid to give up, ever.......Until I have a moment of "ultimate satisfaction" in cars that hard.....very hard, thats why I got out of them long ago. On a bike it was "easy satisfaction" and well......fast and fun, but healing when you get old aint so much fun, that was a BIG reason I quit screwing with bikes, it took me 6 months to heal and my shoulders will never be right (or the permanent dents in my skull, they dont make skull dent pullers apparently) Like this is somehow SAFER in my mind I have no idea....but well......actually it scares me more in a bad spot you dont clear your wreckage..... Im still having "thoughts" about my son racing after his "close calls" last year, almost flipping a Jr. because well he got too comfortable. And the second because well, someone else was on fire on the return road and he broke uptop I was there alone so all I see if fire , people running, and smoke and him not at the slip shack, at 40 my golf cart still wasnt fast enough, that gives me chills just thinking about it. BUT he wants to and hes 13, and an old 13..... I have no idea how my Parents have survived me.....none.....my heart isnt so strong lol... My biggest frustration right now is not being able to take 2 motors with me. Maybe it comes from the bike thing, I mean whenever I built a combo I built a complete spare and carried a 3rd complete setup apart. Its not so easy with cars the stuff is big and heavy :) And the more I think about it the more I think thats where I get my cavalier irreverance for blowing up and breaking things. On bikes they fail often, for 1 running a 40 year old vintage magnesium Grimeca 4 shoe drum that swisscheesed to hell and back well....they break, or anything else.....sucks to eat 800 bucks but it was worth it while it was on there. I guess cars and their motors arent supposed to be like that, and I can see that, for us I guess we expect it. I was told long ago, you can be fast, or you can be bulletproof, you cant be both. But I will take a good look around, and I have looked to Doug Duell, hes not had a failure and hes running as fast as anyone (or faster) and well..... Well get it right, sometimes Im more worried about what to do when that happens........... Thanks Rich Cheers Quote:
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Hang in there, its been forgotten by now but there was a very large learning curve to keeping 428 Cobrajets alive in stock & especially SS for years.
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What yall think about these mains ? http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2669/...56a2d5bcbd.jpg http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4008/...5a185fff78.jpg |
Re: DP #24 Engine failure....
Normal?
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That said not seeing this coating before quite these colors and with taper to the blue that looks to me like its from heat. And to me, and on some others is quite in line with a rotational bluing, it also appears at the edges of the bearings most frequent. In motor #2 the bluing is left in the parting areas where the bearings had not worn and it looks suspect, the mains as well a mix of blue and brown like that with pretty good dyno time and say 10 passes as well as some other part runs....the coating is still evident in large swaths. So Im taking all my conclusions on "appearance" with the exception of actual surfaces with a microscope and throwing them away. Just thought I would share it. |
Re: DP #24 Engine failure....
That looks like heat prior to bearing spinning, prior to the rod breaking, prior to a hole in the block with a rod sticking thru it. Remove intake & valve covers, toss rest in dumpster {428}. That was an oiling problem in them. Dont know anything about these new motors except they haul as#
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Those bearings are BRAND NEW Out of the Plastic ! Its something in the way they are treated. They are ACL Racing Bearings Made in Australia These are AFTER they were cleaned with tet and scrubbed dry. The bearings and all their sisters brand spankin in the plastic look the same , except in all there is variation on the coating/heat treating, the backs are BROWN like BURNT heat Brown...... But they are BRAND New.... http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2722/...935f51b27d.jpg |
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That is the coating just wash in soap and water and install. Do not try to polish them.
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I have not seen that deep a blue around edges before the rod bearings are worse, and not the "brown" ive seen some "odd" coatings, but none that exactly follow the pattern (on one side of the shells) that looks like there was rotational friction and heat. There in at .0036 across the BOARD ! On the spot double checked....I grabbed some XS for the extra clearance, those are matched set.....and well the crank I got was all B sized Journals....the other one that was in it was like BBCAC....althought the other one in my shop isnt much bett Cheers Chris |
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Clevitte H's with the ugly looking chemical wash........They didn't alwasy have that blue/ brown look........they were more of a grey/ blue color.
I've tried them all........used those mostly because they are easy to get and reasonably priced and hold up fine....for the most part. I tried something different in my LT-1 Stocker.....I think they were Federal race bearings......270 degree groove on the mains......that engine went well over 100 runs with no problems and saw over 7000 every run....Car was sold..... Best bearings I've used on a customers 454 engine.....C&A's.........went hundreds and hundreds of runs with no problems.....and this racer had some failures here and there that was pretty costly. A very heavy car that wheelied all the time.....and could run high 9's..... |
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Too bad C&A is no more :( Unless Im wrong ?
These are ACL ? Supposedly good stuff and one of the few XS for mains and incremental trimetal race..... Ive seen ugly, Ive just never see "preburnt" lol.....when you take a low run engine apart with these and havent seen em PRIOR , well they look like things are going badly.....the damm blue is irridecent in the light and like I said all edges mostly, they must heat them in their treatment thats all I can guess. The grey blue on the Clevites Ive seen and that well I would have known but even the backs are "stained" like they were hot..... Well now I know what they went in like....so Ill have a better idea when I see them on the pavement :eek: Quote:
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Thought you meant new out of the new motor, hard to tell from pics. Years back some guys Scotchbrited the coatings off
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[QUOTE=drooze;
Well now I know what they went in like....so Ill have a better idea when I see them on the pavement :eek:[/QUOTE] Think positive thoughts....and like I told you get rid of the junked parts ASAP.....They are full of bad Karma.........it spreads if you let it.... |
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Well maybe but Im not going to "jinx" my "Good Luck" charm by saying it out loud....but its never failed. (When I, me myself put a motor together) |
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If your machinest doesn't offer a good explanation, I would contact ACL and their engineering department and learn for yourself what is right or wrong with those parts.
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My Machinist ? Lol....now thats good....
But seriously right now Im sort of :"between" machinists, just like wives , they both kept pissing me off...soo....gone. Ive got a couple "leads" in the area and well see, im having a crank done tommorow for something else, its pretty tricky the offset grind and journal work that needs done, well not tricky just a lot of it and its got to be perfect. Ive heard good things about him, well see. The bearings I got from Stanton I ordered em because well he had em in stock and got em to me fast, he said they are 100% normal for their bearings, Ive now seen 4 other sets in other motors but they had all been run so it wasnt as glaring, as many have pointed out the coating does wear off. And ive got 5 different sets, 3 from different batches and production dates across 5 months, all look the same...... I think theyre odd....but well...I look odd to and Im ok (I think ?) so well see... Quote:
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http://www.akerlychilds.com/
Clevite series bearings. http://www.kingbearings.com/advantages.html A very good alternative and on the fast side. There is alot of black majic in bearings. One thing to note: On ALL rod bolts keep a log of free standing length. When new go to full stretch (not torque) in specs 3 times. (Usually 2 of these are during the resizing process.) If free standing length changes over .001 at any time crush threads with a hammer and discard ALL of the bolts. You are very likely already doing this. If not you will be astonished at your findings in batch to batch metalurgy/strength/Rockwell ratings. |
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Drooze, are both the 5.7 and 6.1's aluminum blocks?, if so, are there iron blocks available for each?
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Is there anyone betting to see how long this thread will last? I got 5 bucks payable via paypal that there is 40 more posts and at lease another 20 of the those will be novel lenght replys.:D
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5.7 has thicker walls can go .075 over usually no problem. 6.1 is thinner .030 max on a GOOD sonic check if youre lucky. Our 5.7 is from an 06 Jeep Cherokee..... |
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Crate Camaro, no takers here. And I wouldn't expect any, either. I mean, after all the thread starts like this.....
"Ok, I feel compelled to post..." (said a mouthful there Droozie) I probably should have used all caps on the 'compelled'. Crate, you're estimates are likely too low. But I just helped get you started toward your goal. |
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Many high performance bearings that contain an aluminum layer, will get surface corrosion if they are stored improperly and have even seen this happen on new boxes were the bearings came wrapped in plastic. |
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(Then again you could be like my dad , he drank 2 glasses of milk from 1/1/10 last week......blllleeeeeeaaaahhhhhhh he said "Nah its still good I hadnt opened it".........said it was fine....ugh) |
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I've used ACL'S for the last 4 years on my BBC engines. ..They are supposed to look like the picture, they have no overplate like street bearings do. .....ACL's have a slightly wider oil relief band at the parting line,than Speed Pro/ Federal Mogual bearings do..........I've also noticed they maintain their crush in the bore better as well. ..............I havn't used or even seen shiny race bearings in the last 15 years!. ...........Tom
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I noticed they are wider in the center oil band On th rods I noticed they also taper that unlike teh clevites I have.... They seem hard as holy hell for a trimetal bearing, maybe that why they maintain thier crush ? Thanks a lot, its nice to know now from more than one source "they are right" they just look odd...not that odd is bad, but never having seen them prior to being put in an engine taking them out with low runtime well...they still look "odd" Tearing it all down for the last time and back for final assembly all is well in the world. Had a hell of a time getting a cam (of the 3) setup right, but well it is now....the reasons it wouldnt are stupid beyound belief (and good in a way) So my NEW cam will work. Im happy. Should be "on the road" Friday Morning. Cheers Chris |
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