Re: Recommended Engine Oil ?
I'm surprised 1320 hasn't posted a pic on his car yet......
Brad Penn here. Only lost 1 engine so far with it. |
Re: Recommended Engine Oil ?
Lets start with the type of oil,synthetic or dinosaur,If the engine has marginal to extremely low tension rings or is run without valve seals,the synthetic oil is less likely to cause detonation than the hydrocarbon oil,we only run without valve seals when we put something special in the oil that we want to get into the combustion chamber.Most good synthetics eclipse hydrocarbon oils in temperature affected breakdown.ZDDP is necessary for flat tappet cams,1200-1400PPM is the required range,most auto parts store oils are under 800PPM,It is still good to have higher ZDDP ppm but not necessary with a roller camshaft ,although some of the high rpm,agressive cam big valve spring engines we deal with show better wear results with high ZDDP.The Molybedum content is also importent as the oil mfgs.have removed ZDDP they have increased the moly ppm.problem being that too much moly with an agressive high valve spring pressure cam can cause the needle bearings to glide instead of roll and then flat spot and failure,this has been the cause of many roller lifter failures,and that brings us to the elimination of the needle bearings,It is the best development for our industry.Isky EZ Rolls go into almost every engine we build.Back to oils.My wifes Saturn has Mobile 1,My S-10 Blazer has Mobile 1.My 2005 Duramax has pre 2007 Rotella in engine and Allison in trans.Our racing engines run several different oils depending on need. We use Brad Penn ,Joe Gibbs,Royal Purple and LAT .We are having oils tested by more than one lab.There is a website called Bob The Oil Guy,lots of test input there also.Lastly ,Viscosity,the days of 20-50 are gone,just about every type of motorsports is using lighter viscositys with sucess.Bill C.
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Re: Recommended Engine Oil ?
Lots of info there, Bill. Thanks for posting.
I ordered a case of 5 / 30 Royal Purple racing oil. I have .003" - .0035" clearance on crank, and .008"+ piston to wall. Very low tension Total Seal oil rings, and using regular teflon valve stem seals ( 3/8" guides ). Lifters are solid flat tappet, light weight coated tool steel. I started the engine today, and ran it for about 20 minutes ( flushed the cooling system ). When this thing is cool, say 70-100 degrees F, oil pressure at 1600 RPM is over 70. I don't like it. |
Re: Recommended Engine Oil ?
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I sure do get tired of you East Coast boys bad-mouthin' each other. 1320racer, you remind me of the Yankees who come down here and try to tell us how to raise our beans - they got some good ideas and it sounds fine, but they don't live here. |
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X2 Go... Go... Go... |
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Hey Aubrey, I'm not sure having over 70psi of oil pressure at speed is a detrement to your racing program right now. When your engine is at 100F water temp what do you think your oil temp is? Most likely much cooler. what kind of pressure do you have at 160 oil temp ?? how much do you think 70 psi of oil pressure is hurting you? 2 hp? 10 HP? WHat oil pump are you running?
I ran the Royal Purple #11 in my cars with good luck, as well as the Gibbs oil. I also like the Valvoline racing, but I am told that they are out of the racing oil business. I think determining the viscosity of the oil you run depends on the oil tempature range you will be racing with, as well as bearing clearances. Good luck out there this year, I like your car alot and hope you make strides with it this year.... Quote:
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Good job Joe B |
Re: Recommended Engine Oil ?
Oil pressure is the net resistance to flow.the more internal hemorage,the lower oil pressure,the pump rpm is related to idle pressure and the relief valve sets the peak pressure,Volume is the key to addequate lubrication,Nascar Cup at 9500rpms and NHRA Pro-Stocks approaching 11,000 rpm ,both dont see over 50 # oil pressure,high oil pressure is power lost.Blown Alcohol and Nitro engines run 50-70w oil to combat fuel dilution.Bill C.
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Re: Recommended Engine Oil ?
Ok, here's the low down on oil. If you are a Stock, Super Stock or Comp racer you're goal is to make the most HP without causing damage. Finding that spot with your combination is like finding the perfect clutch set up in a stick car or the perfect converter on an automatic car.
Is there HP is one oil over another???? Yes but just changing oil is not where the real gains are at. What you are looking for is the thinnest oil that will provide the lubrication and cooling properties you need. The real gains are in being able to run the lowest oil pressure with the minimal amount of oil in the pan reducing HP drag on the pump and windage in the pan. In Ed's defense I will say that Mobil 1 (Extremely low viscosity) with a certain additive (I can't tell you the name) was the best at all of the above that I found. My SS/A Corvette went through the lights with the oil pressure gauge dancing between 40 and 60 lbs. You had to clutch it and shut it off immediately or the oil pressure would go to zero when you hit the brakes. When I sent my Comp engines back to Houston to be freshened (every 30 to 40 passes) the guys in the shop would drain the oil and say "What the hell is that?" The oil drained out of the pan like water. BTW, I've never had any lubrication issues with bearings, valve train or cyl walls. Many of the people on this forum could find additional gains of .02 to .03 or more by working this method. It's definitely worth it if you are looking for every .01. Take it slow and check the bottom end. |
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X2 I remember when we changed to a newly developed low drag pump for our dry sump. It was 4 to 5 HP. |
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Re: Recommended Engine Oil ?
Because of the astronimical cost of even aquiring a passenger car 409 block and corresponding large port heads, yet alone the cost of preparing it the best I can for the class ( I'm not really in the income bracket to be playing this game ! ).... I keep re=assembling it with the good 'ol reliable Melling M55HV. The terror of spinning a bearing seems to always keep me on that side !
With the 30 W that I've been using, fully hot oil, I go through the traps at no more than 75 PSI. As mentioned, idle will be around 20-25. At 3000 RPM, it will be at 70. So, I'm thinkig that while my "high side" may be 15-20 pounds excessive, the drastic change that I see in oil pressure when cooler, is more of a viscosity issue. I was going to go to that real light stuff, but I think that my loose bearing clearances may not get enough "padding", and would simply get washed out because of too much "hemorage" ! err on the side of caution I've blown this thing up twice now. Once in 2005 because of a broken ARP rod bolt, and a second time in 2009 because of a failed Comp Cams tool-steel spring retainer. Can't afford to fix it again ! Thanks guys Remember, I'm there to add to the car count, and take my position at th ebottom of the ladder ! |
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Another good comparison is John Clegg's SS/AM, 457 BBC, 3250 lbs, 7.90s, compared to a 522 BBC, 2900 lbs, 8.90s. |
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WOW! You guys really take your oil serious around here. I work for Valvoline and we don't think about oil nearly as much as you.:D Lots, well not lots but some good info in this thread though.
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Hey if you can dial it and drive you have just as good a shot at winning as the next guy. Keep up the good work. I always wanted a '64 with a 409/425 4 speed. Your car is a keeper. |
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3144 lbs. and I have NEVER raced in -2000 foot air! Running 8.90's yesterday with a restrictor plate in 3500 foot air with a 28.9x barometer:p Got to go, it's the weekend, I'm racing, something the ebay engine building chump above doesn't do! |
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Actually we think about horsepower. Oil is just one piece of the puzzle. |
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Dang it! OK Ed I'll bite, you raced @3500 ft. in New Jersey... didn't know there were mountains in that state. Either that or it was 95 degrees 80% humiditry plus your stated barometer. You went 8.90 with a RESTRICTOR PLATE, I knew Nascar used them on the super speedways to slow the cars down, I have to ask.... what are you using one for? NO really this is a legitimate question. So lets recap you state your car is faster than mine..it is, it runs 8 tenths faster with over double the cubes and weighs a whopping 170 lbs. more. Really I fail to see what all the puffery is about. However carry on. Joe
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Re: Recommended Engine Oil ?
Joe,
I think the 3500' is where his ego races. All the weather stations I looked at over the weekend in New Jersey ranged between 385' to just over 1500' depending on the time of day. And baro was 29.51 to 30.09 uncorrected. :D |
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Ed races at Numidia pretty regularly....
It's in Pa. and up on a pretty good hill so it is well above sea level...... I have raced there when my weather station showed it was 4000' DA... Mid 90's and very humid..... We do have fast conditions and race tracks in this area in the spring and fall but not when it's summer time..... I have seen well above 3000' at other tracks in summer time.... |
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Rich knows.;) |
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No,No,No,No, simply requesting clarification on your statements, where you seem intent on spreading the results of your outstanding race vehicle. Kinda like the grade school kids saying "my dad can beat up your dad". You simply can't accept the fact that your cars performance is mediocre at best. You know the truly ironic part about this is you took the time to register to be a member of a sight basically for "Class Racers"( though it does have other categories) and repeatedly make negative or disparaging statements about things you have no actual experience with. Just because I watched Law and order a few times doesn't qualify me to advise people on matters of law, yet you feel you're qualified to advise Class racers of how wrong we are. Have a good one Ed, Oh is it OK if I call you Ed?Joe
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