Re: What Race Oil do you trust?
Has anyone tried the new "Maxima Race Oil " ?
We use a lot of Shaefer Racing oil and we build round track engines and have had excellent results with it. We use Spectro break in oil and we build lots of flat tappet,high spring pressure engines. |
Re: What Race Oil do you trust?
We use Schaeffer Oils in our engines (we are using 5-50 Supreme Synthetic in the 632" (right now). I used their 5-30 in my Stocker with no ill effects and it was faster than 20 Redline. (at least in my engine).
I have used Blackstone Labs to do my Used Oil Analysis. If you haven't done that I highly recommend them. You can find out EXACTLY what is going on in your engine after each oil change and monitor the change or spot early problems. I tried the Comp Cams 15-50 Break-In oil on the dyno and when we sent it in Blackstone's rep wrote a nice email that stated it has the highest zinc, phosphorus and Calcium package they had seen in a while. He recommended I stay with it vs the Schaeffers I had been sending in, I have 10 1-gallon jugs of Schaeffers so I will use that up and go back to the Comp Cams Break-in. It is a litttle heavy for stock but with that much Zinc it might be worth running and change oil for a heads up and save the oil to use again. I think oil filters are as important as the oil. I keep thinking K&N should be the best but my engine guy is stuck on WIX racing filtes, what are your opinions (don't want to steal the thread, sorry, I may ask that on a different thread. Jok |
Re: What Race Oil do you trust?
We used to sell Schaeffer Oil and it is a good product, its right there with the high end
race oils as far as performance at a substantially better price but like all passenger car oils the zddp package is reduced because of emissions so add a little zinc approx 2500 ppm and you have a very good race oil. As far as WIX filters go i would stay with them as they are a very well built filter with the correct media for a race engine, a little higher micron rating for high flow and less pumping restriction. |
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I use NAPA filters, which are made by Wix. Cut one apart along with a Fram. I have not seen inside a K&N.
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Anybody using swepco 5/30 in ss engines?
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Really interesting reading here.
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Re: What Race Oil do you trust?
Please don't let me steal the thread, but has anyone tried the Mobil 1 dedicated Racing Oil----not the off the shelf....they have a dedicated oil product, check the Mobil 1 racing website if you haven't already.
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Looking into Penrite Oil, looks very interesting....
Wade |
Re: What Race Oil do you trust?
Reviving this thread to ask if anyone has given thought to Viscosity Index? As I understand it, the higher the VI number, the less the oil changes with temperature. In trying to be as consistent as possible in our classes- cold morning runs vs a hot laps, would it make the most sense to run oil with a high VI? I've noticed Royal Purple, Eneos, and Driven have high VI numbers.
I would also extend this question to ATF and Differential as well. |
Re: What Race Oil do you trust?
I run strickly run MPT oil out of New Jersey in my engines. 20wt with zinc already added. Plus he makes me whatever viscosity I want for heads up runs.
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Re: What Race Oil do you trust?
Motul 300V 5W-30 Racing oil, with Ester additiv and zink. Has one off the highest oil film strength on the market. A timken test shows it can handle 112 464 psi.
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I used to use the BradPenn 10-30. This last summer I switched to the Driven GP 10-30 semi- synthetic oil. Good cling! Good oil at a good price.
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Re: What Race Oil do you trust?
You might want to try some of the Mobil High Mileage 0-20.
There are a few S/SS racers out there that have seen some benefits from it on the dyno, but they aren't talking about it. |
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Do you monitor oil temperature? Use an oil heater? If you don't know what temp you are racing at it's hard to center on whether the oil is what is could be causing an ET difference. |
Re: What Race Oil do you trust?
There are many great oils out there that provide lots of performance such as Schaefer, Mobil 1, Maxima, HPL and others.
At the same time, I have seen many use the Comp Cams, Total Seal and Driven Break-In oils for normal racing use. By the way, the Comp Cams and Total Seal Break-In oil are made by Driven. When I was helping a friend of mine with his Comp Eliminator car, one the dry sump hoses was leaking. I loosened up the hose to retighten the hose and had a rag to collect and clean the excess oil. When I looked at the rag, I noticed lots of Copper and other shiny metallic material and asked the owner what oil he was using because the engine was only on its 7 run. He told me he was using one of the brands of break in oil and that his engine builder, a well know engine shop, had told him to only run break in oil. So, at the next race, the engine let go a few rods through the pan and after I took it apart, all the bearings were gone. I had a chat with Lake Speed Jr. and Nick Ferri about the use of break in oil for normal use on a race engine. Lake Speed Jr, who is a licensed Oil Tribologist and engineer, explained to me that break in oils are just that, a break in oil to be used to breaking in the engine on the dyno or for a limited use on street engine. Nick Ferri shared that he only uses the break in oil on the dyno and then switches to the specific engine oil for the application. For break in oil, I use Total Seal that still contains the formulation from Lubrizol that was created for breaking in NASCAR engines. For racing use, not in an order of preference, Amsoil, HPL and Maxima. For rear ends, Amsoil synthetic. For manual transmissions, either Amsoil or Type-F trans fluid. For Automatics, tractor hydraulic fluid or Amsoil. |
Re: What Race Oil do you trust?
This is a good read about break-in and racing oils.
https://www.enginebuildermag.com/201...%20break%2Din. |
Re: What Race Oil do you trust?
I still run Royal Purple 5/20 Racing oil (Old 11) that I
have run literally forever. I am always pleased with how the engine looks when rebuild time! For Heads Up = If needed the light Dangerous Stuff and cross our fingers. |
Re: What Race Oil do you trust?
Booby Fazio you have a PM
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Re: What Race Oil do you trust?
Yep............Sorry!
Somewhat cheaper by the Pail. If that is too pricey = I use Mobil One on my 10 Sec. or slower Bracket Stuff. |
Re: What Race Oil do you trust?
Hey all,
I'm now with Driven Racing Oil, and would like to help answer any questions you may have regarding our product. You can email me at kfickler@drivenracingoil.com with your questions or your contact info and I will call. Whichever works best for you. Kyle Fickler |
Re: What Race Oil do you trust?
Have mostly used Mobil 1 and Lucas 10-30 in LT1 and LS cars We tried RP in the LT1 but would not keep the lifters pumped up. We have since went with solids (thanks nhra) 2 questions...do I need a additive with Mobil 1 or Lucas? since both cars have roller cams?...somebody mentioned Mobil 1 5-20 high mileage. Is this OK for all the time oil?
What about a safe heads up go fast oil? |
Re: What Race Oil do you trust?
I do not think there is a "Safe" Superlight heads up Oil!
I am always worried with the Superlight stuff and can not wait to get it to the finish and shut the engine down! |
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Good call. It's surprising how hard it is to keep enough heat in the oil. |
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There are many choices for a heads-up oil, but also consider the clearances you are running. Putting a thinner oil for a heads up run can also require overhauling the engine afterwards. Engine oils have a low surface tension and it operational temperature changes it. It is a risk you take. Hydraulic lifters require a minimum of oil Centistokes to operate properly. The lower the oil viscosity, the lower the Centistokes. Centistokes is a measurement of the kinematic viscosity on engine oils, that defines the fluid friction and of the oil's film strength to support a load. A 30w engine oil at 212 degrees F will have a Centistoke reading of 9.3 thru 12.5; however, 5w oil at the same temperature will have a 3 or less Centistokes. |
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Well I should know this year. Ran steel for years and put on an aluminum pan for this coming year. I also run a diaper and still use my oil heater. |
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SSDiv6 gave a good answer. In my experience it is really hard to get/keep that much heat in mine unless I am making laps within 20 minutes. The double races I hit and making late rounds of both I will see 250°. I am on alcohol though. I try my best to never hit the water with less than 150° oil temp though. |
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Interesting sidenote, occasionally on the dyno, you accidentally get the oil too hot prior to a pull, counterintuitively the best thing you can do is fire the motor and it instantly sucks the heat out of the oil, it will drop 20 degrees if not more. Bringing up oil temp with the heater while the motor is turned off is easy, very hard to increase oil temp while the motor is running. Monitoring oil temp on a dyno definitely proves that cold oil sucks a lot of HP. |
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Right on the money on an engine loosing power with cold oil. How many times have you removed the oil cap or valve covers and seen the accumulation of moisture before you make your first run of the day? I believe the best approach and practice would be to heat up the oil or run the engine until you go above 230 degrees F to get rid of the water vapor and burn the deposits prior to the first run of the day. A heater would be the best way and economical since you would not be running the engine and wasting race fuel. |
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as far as pumping up lifters a stocker shouldn't have had a lifter that pumps up for a VERY long time.. |
Re: What Race Oil do you trust?
How about when you have Sherman or Smith "hydraulic" roller lifters? Can thinner oils be counterproductive?
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https://s19529.pcdn.co/wp-content/up...Engine-Oil.jpg |
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