Originally Posted by Robert Swartz (Post 399487)

Yeah, pretty much they have. I have "most" of the pieces to put a SBC crate car together. Lack of time and motivation have kept me from pursuing it. I have a set of Parson's heads and the matching intake. Comp Cam and new Sherman lifters. Ross Pistons and a couple sets of good rods both stock and super stock. A legal carb that I got from Jeff Ross, built by a reputable person. The car already has a prepped rear with all Strange parts. Cal tracs and mono leafs. Have the pucks in the front subframe, need to rebuild the rest. Got the wheels and tires. Roll bar and frame connectors, just need to get them set up and welded in. Got a good 4 bolt main block with a steel crank, a donor from an old truck to build the engine from. They'll probably abolish the class before I finish the car.

Bruce told us we could expect to have $1600 or so in the block and crank work. I imagine with extras that figure will close to double. I gave him my modest expectations of what I expected the car to run. He laughed and said, if the car was set up at all, he didn't feel we'd have to worry about going that slow!

I love the PS concept. It's what Stock USED to be. My little FWD car won't fit into Pure Stock. Wish they pushed the same number of weight breaks as regular stock.

Originally Posted by KennyAnderson (Post 399550)

"Yeah, pretty much they have. I have "most" of the pieces to put a SBC crate car together. Lack of time and motivation have kept me from pursuing it. I have a set of Parson's heads and the matching intake. Comp Cam and new Sherman lifters. Ross Pistons and a couple sets of good rods both stock and super stock. A legal carb that I got from Jeff Ross, built by a reputable person. The car already has a prepped rear with all Strange parts. Cal tracs and mono leafs. Have the pucks in the front subframe, need to rebuild the rest. Got the wheels and tires. Roll bar and frame connectors, just need to get them set up and welded in. Got a good 4 bolt main block with a steel crank, a donor from an old truck to build the engine from. They'll probably abolish the class before I finish the car.

Bruce told us we could expect to have $1600 or so in the block and crank work. I imagine with extras that figure will close to double. I gave him my modest expectations of what I expected the car to run. He laughed and said, if the car was set up at all, he didn't feel we'd have to worry about going that slow!"

Robert forgive me for being naïve but exactly what is "crate motor" about this build? If I was going to this trouble it would be a legal motor.

Originally Posted by Tar Heel (Post 399559)

I think the original intent of Crate Motor Kenny was to actually buy a crate motor from GM, Ford, etc. and then do the necessary modifications on that long block to get it to run under the index. However, the only thing necessary on a "crate motor" to be legal ... let's say a Fast Burn for instance, would be the legal heads. When you buy a complete engine from GM you change the rods, put in a Stocker cam, add a single plane intake, etc. Everyone has access to a SBC block, crank, and then can add aftermarket rods, legal pistons, intake, etc. for well under what the factory charges for the long block ... most of which you won't use if you really want to be fast. He'll still be legal but is just gathering parts instead of buying the engine complete.

Originally Posted by KennyAnderson (Post 399568)

Im with you, I just think this is not the most economical way to go. If Im piecing together a motor like this why not just build a legal motor to run either sanctioning body. I would expect to spend 10k for a good legal setup building it myself. I figure on buying a used ZZ4 and going through it to the tune of around 5k. Hopefully when Im ready the guy I alluded to in an earlier post has some stuff still. Right now he has a fastburn motor fresh carb to pan for 3k. I completely understand you CAN spend a ton if you like, I love that you can compete without doing it.

PS Would love to see IHRA do a Crate Motor SS deal.

Originally Posted by KennyAnderson (Post 399579)

Completely agreed. A few PS cars down here but not many.There are some C/M cars I looked at turnkey just couldn't find the right one. Plus I want the kids to get an education as we progress through this. There is a 3rd gen Camaro C/M car down here for sale that goes pretty far under the index for $7500. Its just waayyyyy to rough for me. A bud bought a Malibu wagon C/M car that goes 4 tenths under in the heat for $5k TURNKEY!!! Wish I found that one first and I have asked for dibs when/if he ever tires of it.

Originally Posted by Tar Heel (Post 399599)

Yes, no sense in investing in something that's not clean and worth the money. It may not be right thinking but my thought process has always been if the body/interior is rough was the drivetrain done well and is it safe? It's just my personal preference but I'd rather go slower in an above average clean car that's safe.

Originally Posted by Dan Fahey (Post 399608)

HOWEVER.. have an additional advantage..

We can put on our wide wheels and tires and go Road Racing or Auto Crossing.

Which NO Stocker or SSer can do...:eek:

D

Originally Posted by Dan Fahey (Post 399608)

HOWEVER.. have an additional advantage..

We can put on our wide wheels and tires and go Road Racing or Auto Crossing.

Which NO Stocker or SSer can do...:eek:

D

Originally Posted by KennyAnderson (Post 399550)

"Yeah, pretty much they have. I have "most" of the pieces to put a SBC crate car together. Lack of time and motivation have kept me from pursuing it. I have a set of Parson's heads and the matching intake. Comp Cam and new Sherman lifters. Ross Pistons and a couple sets of good rods both stock and super stock. A legal carb that I got from Jeff Ross, built by a reputable person. The car already has a prepped rear with all Strange parts. Cal tracs and mono leafs. Have the pucks in the front subframe, need to rebuild the rest. Got the wheels and tires. Roll bar and frame connectors, just need to get them set up and welded in. Got a good 4 bolt main block with a steel crank, a donor from an old truck to build the engine from. They'll probably abolish the class before I finish the car.

Bruce told us we could expect to have $1600 or so in the block and crank work. I imagine with extras that figure will close to double. I gave him my modest expectations of what I expected the car to run. He laughed and said, if the car was set up at all, he didn't feel we'd have to worry about going that slow!"

Robert forgive me for being naïve but exactly what is "crate motor" about this build? If I was going to this trouble it would be a legal motor.

Originally Posted by KennyAnderson (Post 400266)

OK!! Picked car up on sat am, mounted wheels and tires and went racin sat sun. Not bad although a lil slower than I had hoped. It was AFRICA HOT THO!! Ran 14.30's and high 9.teens/20's in the eigth. Fairly consistent and easy to hit the tree in. Looks like D/PS it is although I will need to get just about 100lbs out of the car and speed it up considerably with an 8.50 index. First thing on the slate is a converter. The stock one is TIGHT! Can barely footbrake it to 1500 before it pushes through the brakes. Looking at a Yank 3800-4000 stall. Any pointers? And guys with experience how much did you pick up with a good converter. Most say 1/2 sec should be easy with a good one. Headers and gears next up.

Originally Posted by KennyAnderson (Post 400266)

OK!! Picked car up on sat am, mounted wheels and tires and went racin sat sun. Not bad although a lil slower than I had hoped. It was AFRICA HOT THO!! Ran 14.30's and high 9.teens/20's in the eigth. Fairly consistent and easy to hit the tree in. Looks like D/PS it is although I will need to get just about 100lbs out of the car and speed it up considerably with an 8.50 index. First thing on the slate is a converter. The stock one is TIGHT! Can barely footbrake it to 1500 before it pushes through the brakes. Looking at a Yank 3800-4000 stall. Any pointers? And guys with experience how much did you pick up with a good converter. Most say 1/2 sec should be easy with a good one. Headers and gears next up.

Originally Posted by KennyAnderson (Post 400346)

PM sent. Thanks!

Thanks Scott. Did it pick up a sec in the 1/4? If so how much 1/8th? Either way IMPRESSIVE. Got a line on some headers, gears next. I'm hoping between these three main things (converter, gear, and headers) PLUS getting about 100 lbs out of the car I can run the index or better. Need 7 tenths in the 1/8th (8.50 index).

Originally Posted by Tar Heel (Post 400431)

That's good that you know a reputable tuner. That can make all the difference in getting a car to run the index as well as having a reliable, consistent Stocker.

Speaking of consistent ... I've never shifted any computer-controlled car that I've raced. Turn the traction control off, put it in drive, and go. My thinking is that I'll never be quicker than any computer and definitely I won't be more consistent. Even if I picked up a hundreth or two I want the consistency. When we work hard to regulate the water temperature and ice the intake if traction stays our car is deadly consistent on the ETs by not shifting it.

Originally Posted by KennyAnderson (Post 400596)

Then get your butt down here! Its my favorite time of year here. Perfect racin weather! 2x chances to race PLUS if my feeble memory serves me there will be a S/SS combo race sat night. Ill look up the flyer.

Originally Posted by Frank B. (Post 400613)

If you have a 93 car it is not shifted by computer. Also your PCM is chip tuned not flash tuned. Just mt 2 cents

Originally Posted by bigshow2966 (Post 400777)

Do the older cars have an Intake Air Temp sensor? I know on my GTO it would pull timing when temps went up. Only problem was it was so close to the radiator it was reading water temps in the stock location. It would slow down a ton.

Originally Posted by Frank B. (Post 401392)

93 's came with a 4l60 not 4l60e. 94's and 95's came with 4l60e with OBD1 computer. 96 to 98 came with OBD2 computers. Cars with the OBD1 computer have shifting problems with a high stall convertor.

Originally Posted by Frank B. (Post 401392)

93 's came with a 4l60 not 4l60e. 94's and 95's came with 4l60e with OBD1 computer. 96 to 98 came with OBD2 computers. Cars with the OBD1 computer have shifting problems with a high stall convertor.

Originally Posted by KennyAnderson (Post 401524)

Ok, thanks, I'm learning!:) What controls the shifts in a 4L60? What type of computer is in my 93?

Originally Posted by Frank B. (Post 401556)

The 1993 4l60's shifts are controlled by a govenor with springs and weights. The 93 computer is an EPROM chip type computer that can be reprogrammed by Ed Wright,Bryan Herter,etc.