Re: Hardblock?
 

Sounds like your being a dick head LOL

I build a lot of engines with OEM blocks and no problems to date.

95% of my circle track engines I have built for the last 40 years have been OEM block.

Now I am sure you will find something else to cry about LOL

Re: Hardblock?
 

Work with an old OEM block that is worn out and needs lifter bore bushings, clean & mag sonic test, deck bore, plate hone, better main caps, line bore and line hone, bore and plate hone, add all that up and and after market block is the way to go.

Re: Hardblock?
 

You just contradicted yourself. thanks for proving my point.

Re: Hardblock?
 

Now that it's settled, "back to the studio" as Jeremy Clarkson might say.

To summarize, if you can get an aftermarket/HP block for your combo, buy one.

If they don't make one for your combo, either run what you can get or buy a foundry and cast your own and then get it approved by NHRA.

I submitted a 318 piston from Silvolite a couple of years ago to NHRA and never heard anything one way or the other. Good luck getting something approved.

Re: Hardblock?
 

James, in your situation with the little 273, maybe the most cost effective approach is to sleeve all eight. I broke a cylinder wall last season that was .125-.130 on the thrust side after boring and prep:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...psevmtqfgw.jpg

Talk with Matt Steen at Victory Engines @ (507) 532-2436 and get his advice as Matt and Jason really know their way around those motors. -Al

Re: Hardblock?
 

As time goes by the amount of blocks is drying up so first you have to locate a block. $ Then you have to take it to machine shop for multiple tests to see if the block is useable $$$. If it passes at that point, the block needs to be machined $$$$. Than the block needs to be poured $$. Remachine block $$. Now unless your brother-in -law owns a machine shop this starts getting expensive and time consuming. Maybe you should look into pricing all that was just mentioned versus an aftermarket block. Do the math and see what works for you. Hope you get lucky on the first block. Been there done that. Just my take. Hell, I just put a Dart block in my street hot rod. To old to be dumpster diving for blocks. LOL

Re: Hardblock?
 

Now I just proved you were being a dick head thats all.

By 2 PM's I received I guess I am not the only one that feels that way LOL

Re: Hardblock?
 

Don't let David Lee see this post !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Re: Hardblock?
 

that has nothing to do with the other engines that do not have replacement blocks and you admitted

I build a lot of engines with OEM blocks and no problems to date.

so i do not see what your problem is. Either we need to some how get blocks that do not exist or use the blocks we have.

I am planning on sleeving a 318 block and getting it bored to 273 specs.
And your personal attacks are not doing a thing.

Re: Hardblock?
 

My engine guy in Florida wanted to use a 340 block (4.04" bore) and sleeve it down to 273 size (3.63" or somewhat bigger depending on the ring selection). I would have gone for sleeving down a 318 block (3.91").

Alan, was your block filled? The .130" number was fore and aft in the areas between the cylinders. I have talked with Matt, Paul Wong and others on the build. I'm mostly limited by the thickness or thinness of my wallet. It's fairly thick if I fill it with $1 bills, very thin with $100s.

Back to the studio for another round.

Re: Hardblock?
 

Sounds like your an engine assembler not an engine builder that does his own work and has the right equipment to the job.

Big difference between you and I if that's the case.

Re: Hardblock?
 

Yes there is a big difference between us. And it has nothing to do with racing. And the person advising me is quite adept at doing his own building and machining, and build some very competitive engines. I am done with your childish antics.

Re: Hardblock?
 

Carl , I think David's point should be well taken.
You're not using the wrong block, if there is no replacement available.
The last block that I filled , did not have a replacement.
After several no. 1 qualifiers and a Nat'l record, it never dawned on me that I was using the wrong block.
Perhaps you should have qualified that statement at the outset. Just sayin' .

Re: Hardblock?
 

Mark, thank you for standing up for those of us that want to run an odd-ball (Non-Chevy) combo. I didn't see a Mopar 273 on Carl's website.

http://hinksonautomotive-cncblocks.com/products/

Re: Hardblock?
 

On our 267 chevy we took a 305 block and sleeved it down to 3.50. Didn't fill it and had reasonably thick cylinder walls. Still leaks 2 to 4%after 60 runs. Aftermarket block is the best way to go but we ended up with a decent block for half the price of aftermarket.

Re: Hardblock?
 

Do you think adding hardblock would have helped the leakdown?

Re: Hardblock?
 

From what I have seen with sleeving blocks and more so all eight sleeves put a lot of unwanted stress in the block and after a few heat cycle the cylinders don't stay round.

Re: Hardblock?
 

I have no interest in CNC machining Mopar blocks not much call over the years so its not worth tooling up for a block you might do once a year