CLASS RACER FORUM - What factors Determine Tow Rating

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Re: What factors Determine Tow Rating

Quote:

Originally Posted by kdanner (Post 572116)

If you look up the brake dimensions of a current half ton and then just a 10 year old 3/4 ton, you'll find the new truck has the larger brakes of the 2.

I was also going to point out how much better the brakes are now. The larger wheels on trucks now allow a larger diameter brake with a larger caliper than they used to have. Granted no argument can be made that they are equal to a 3/4 ton's brakes and suspension he isn't talking about pulling a 30' enclosed either.

Curtis

Re: What factors Determine Tow Rating

Quote:

Originally Posted by kdanner (Post 572116)

If you look up the brake dimensions of a current half ton and then just a 10 year old 3/4 ton, you'll find the new truck has the larger brakes of the 2.

Oh for sure. But, the new 2500/3500HD plus trucks also have bigger brake packages. If you are not going up big mountains and down the other side then yeah a light duty truck will work. I put safety first. Not $. You are asking a light duty truck to do the job of a Heavier duty truck. I like most guys on here have towed with lighter trucks. I like piece of mind. IMHO...

Re: What factors Determine Tow Rating

Quote:

Originally Posted by Barry Polley (Post 572120)

That is why you pay attention to the Tow
and total
Total maximum gross vehicle weight.

One sleeper is the Chevy Blazer SS which is a great tow vehicle.
Has the Power, Trans, Brakes and Suspension to tow 6000 lb easily.
Don Compolito tows with one and seen several racers using them.

Also popular is the new Durango RT.

D

Re: What factors Determine Tow Rating

Trailblazer SS is a good truck we lived 191k with one, BUT, I would not want to tow with one, as wheelbase is kinda' short, rear air bags, elec. gas pedal, and throttle body, would not want to cooperate at the wrong time. Sure would be fun trying to tow with a bag that didn't want to take air, while the instrument panel announances reduced power due to someone not being happy. John Kissel

Re: What factors Determine Tow Rating

Quote:

Originally Posted by nhramnl (Post 571881)

Jim is right on the money. I would venture to guess that there isn't, and won't be, anybody who says they've used both 1/2 and 3/4 tons pickups and would be completely satisfied with a 1/2 ton. I've used 2500 HD Chevys for decades and have never, in any situation, felt I had "too much truck" for the task. I think the real truth with people who say a 1/2 ton works fine as a trailer puller is that they either don't have, or don't want to spend, the extra money.

Well spoken.

Re: What factors Determine Tow Rating

The new 1/2 ton pickups are stout. My son works for FCA and I think he told me the new 1500 ram with the right equipment could tow 12,000 lbs. There is no doubt that these trucks can handle an open trailer and race car in about any situation. That’s what the op wanted to ask about and those are the facts.

Re: What factors Determine Tow Rating

8 new Pickup Trucks
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bEB0oe22pT4

TOWING WITH A HALF TON TRUCK (FORD F-150)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fRDydK3LyBw

2017 Chevy Colorado vs GMC Canyon Duramax Ike Gauntlet Review: World's Toughest Towing Test
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BqcYm4_80Vg&t=2s

2018 Ford F-150 vs Ram 1500 vs Chevrolet Silverado: Big Three Truck Comparison Test
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wlKeHK3ivvM

Re: What factors Determine Tow Rating

So Dan, what are you going to buy? We want a road test report! LOL

Re: What factors Determine Tow Rating

Quote:

Originally Posted by james schaechter (Post 572223)

So Dan, what are you going to buy? We want a road test report! LOL

James, it likely won't be what the knowledgeable, experienced racers he asked have recommend. He always spends a couple of days telling people what the correct answer is, when he asks for advice.

Not likely many that have towed with both a 1/2 ton & 3/4 ton would prefer the 1/2 ton. There is much more to it than brakes. Go to an NHRA race (not talking local bracket races) and see how many are towing with a 1/2 ton. Much more to it than brakes, people that have towed with both know that. Maybe the wind never blows where Dan lives & races. He is also trying to race a very heavy car.

Re: What factors Determine Tow Rating

Dan, don't take offense, your questions always seem to be looking for the lest expensive solution. As Ed said, then you try to convince all of your advisors that they are wrong.

It's easy for me to spend someone else's money, but the obvious solution is to get something that will do the job as safely as possible, for your sake and everyone else's around you.

I drove 1.3 million safe miles in a tractor trailer. It was always more than capable of doing the job, in all kinds of conditions. (A very important aspect.) I don't know if I could say the same if I drove 1.3 million miles in a borderline safely loaded 1/2 ton truck with trailer.

Re: What factors Determine Tow Rating

When (not if) you get into an emergency or panic situation, you will be thankful if you have more vehicle than you need for what you're pulling.

Re: What factors Determine Tow Rating

A lot of us have been there.

Re: What factors Determine Tow Rating

Post #26 he said adding 3.73 gears and maybe new convertor to his impala wagon. That does not sound like anyone getting a new truck

Re: What factors Determine Tow Rating

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frank B. (Post 572283)

Post #26 he said adding 3.73 gears and maybe new convertor to his impala wagon. That does not sound like anyone getting a new truck

No more than he has raced, or traveled to race his IHRA "Pure Stocker", he already knows more than the rest of us. LOL

Re: What factors Determine Tow Rating

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ed Wright (Post 571701)

When I started trying to race again, I pulled mine on an open trailer with my wife's 1/2 ton, 350" Tahoe. Could have used more brake. Put brakes on both trailer axels. Bought a 2500 Suburban made all that much more comfortable.
Bought my 24' ATC (all aluminum) enclosed trailer. Very light for an enclosed trailer. Can't tell it is heavier than the steel Open trailer.

Came with 5 lug 15" wheels, and Goodyear Trailer tires. (Said Trailer right on the sidewalls) It moved around a lot in crosswinds, and meeting big trucks. Had brakes on one axle. I found 8 lug hubs with brakes that fit the axles. Put those on both axles, bought 16" wheels to fit, l put the same 245-75-16 Michelins on it that I use on the Suburban. Tows so much better. Stopping is much better, cross winds & big trucks no longer effect if. I would never go back to a 1/2 ton, or 15" trailer tires. Whole new deal now.
Same spare fits truck or the trailer. I also have used only Michelins on everything we owned for about 30 years now.

Hope I don't sound like I think I know everything. Just sharing what I experienced.

Hey Ed---What are those hubs off of ? I need some -- Thanks, Danny

Re: What factors Determine Tow Rating

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frank B. (Post 572283)

Post #26 he said adding 3.73 gears and maybe new convertor to his impala wagon. That does not sound like anyone getting a new truck

You are right!
Until buying one of these $70000-80000 beasts.
The Hot Rodder in me going to fix up what I have.
My wagon has been beefed up to tow long distances with a trailer.
It is safe and learning what really works.

Had a recent accident
Where a nut took out my side of the wagon in a two lane left turn.
I was in the outside lane.

Parts are becoming a problem as the wagon becomes more of a classic.
Front doors are hard to find and rear wagon doors a lot tougher.
Wagon will get fixed. But time to start searching.
Plus my neck is still sore.

Have been looking at enclosed trailers.
This requires a whole new set of considerations.
Especially dealing and understanding wind shear !

Here is what I have learned.
Just bought Hughes Towing Converter.
Love its features as it is Designed to operate cooler than a Stock one.

There are other towing converters with a bit more stall.
Moves the torque curve up a bit but adds heat.
The Hughes Towing Converter Stall is slightly larger and tighter.
Specs say it flows the trans fluid better to reduce heat.
So will see how this combination works.

The current towing converter and 3.08’s work great over mountains.
It has a bit more stall than the stock converter.
But the 3.73s and new Converter will reduce strain on the cooling systems.
Interestingly gas mileage for towing will not be impacted.
Unloaded fuel mileage will suffer but rarely for towing.

Trucks are geared to get decent non loaded/towing fuel mileage.
Because 90% of their use is Unloaded.
Here more gear and tighter converter would work for distance Towing.

The rear squats couple inches when loaded, using up the GVWR.
Easily fixed adding airbags and electric pump.
This also helps front end geometry reducing any white knuckle feeling.
Also improves GVRW and CVWR.

So for all the bluster here.
Trucks still require specialized upgrades for long distance towing.
Local and highway sprints are not an issue.

So if a person tows with an unprepared truck and had a bad experience!
Well...fix it!

D

Re: What factors Determine Tow Rating

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dan Lattimore (Post 572320)

Hey Ed---What are those hubs off of ? I need some -- Thanks, Danny

Dan, from a local trailer dealer. Back in about 2008. I told the guy at a trailer & trailer parts dealer here what I wanted to do. I had trouble blowing out the 15" "trailer rated" tires that. And on it. Had 5 lug wheels, like a car. Found they were speed rated at 65 MPH. The speed limits on the many toll roads here is 75 MPH. I had a diesel motorhome until recently that I just set the cruise control, it ran the speed limits like the trailer was not back there. Ignorant me, I was not aware of the tire speed ratings. Blew out a few. SMH
The trailer parts guy told me I needed to put 16" wheels on it, to get the load ratings & speed ratings I need to run the speed limits. Same 8 lug wheels & tires as my 2500 Suburban. Tows so much better. The original trailer tires & our 1/2 ton Tahoe towed it, but not nearly as stable as the 3/4 ton Suburban & better tires.
Had to buy the whole assembly for each trailer wheel. Four bolts holds each to the end of the trailer axle. You will see the difference first time you tow it. I thought the 1/2 Ton Tahoe and 15" trailer tires were fine, until the first trip with the new stuff. Safer & more comfortable on windy days, also on 2 lane roads with 18 wheelers. I have the same 16" Michelins on the trailer as the Suburban. They use 65 psi. Same 8 lug wheels.

Re: What factors Determine Tow Rating

I believe in overkill when it comes to towing.Much better safe than sorry.I’ve been there and I’ll never tow with any less than a dually. Dual wheels make it so nice going down the highway and if you ever come up on a hairy situation you’ll be glad you had those big brakes. Station wagons may go up and down the highway just fine, but if you ever need to avoid a situation or stop quickly you may be in trouble. Just looking out for you.

Re: What factors Determine Tow Rating

I agree. A doolie would be safer.

Re: What factors Determine Tow Rating

I agree with the above two posts!

However, many trailer will not accept the 16 inch
wheel/tires due to the fender not clearing.

Re: What factors Determine Tow Rating

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ed Wright (Post 572366)

Hey Ed ---- Thanks for the great info, exactly what I've been wanting to do. --- Danny

Re: What factors Determine Tow Rating

Quote:

Originally Posted by GTX JOHN (Post 572390)

I agree with the above two posts!

However, many trailer will not accept the 16 inch
wheel/tires due to the fender not clearing.

That is my situation.
There was a good conversation on Trailer Tires earlier this year.
I got new 6 ply now know 8 and 10 ply are available for the 15 inch wheel.
Also learned the manufacture says you can run 70lbs on a 65lb rated tire.

On trucks Dodge, GM and Ford have an impressive new offerings and choices.

Re: What factors Determine Tow Rating

Dan, you came here and asked a question. A lot of people, with a lot of experience in this area, gave you your answer:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty Davenport (Post 571385)

All of these performance ratings are great but if you are planning on leaving town......GET THE VEHICLE WITH THE BEST BRAKES AND THE MOST WHEELS ON THE GROUND.....THE PERFORMANCE IS NOTHING WHEN YOU ARE HAULING *** AND THE BRAKE LIGHTS START TO COME ON IN FRONT OF YOU !!!!!!!!!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by 6130 (Post 571402)

Are you talking about the Silverado 1500?

With all due respects, I would not tow three tons of stuff behind a half-ton pickup on a public road shared with other motorists.

For starters, the 2019 Silverado 1500 comes on P-metric (passenger car) tires. Light-duty truck (load range "C") tires are an option. No load range "E" or even "D" truck tires are available on the Silverado 1500.

Half-ton trucks do not come with full-floating rear axles, so if you break a rear axle outboard of whatever is retaining it, you lose a rear wheel and half of your braking system.

I don't know what rear end GM is using for the particular Silverado 1500 variant that you're considering, but historically, GM's half-ton pickups have used C-clips at the inboard ends for axle retention, which means that if you lose a C-clip or snap an axle anywhere outboard of the C-clip, you lose a rear wheel and half of your braking system.

Half-ton pickups also have much smaller brakes, smaller wheel bearings, and so on, which makes them less safe when towing.

Modern light-duty trucks have a lot more horsepower than older light-duty trucks did, the transmissions are certainly getting better, and the manufacturer's tow ratings have increased because of this, but I wouldn't tow three tons of stuff with anything less than the sturdiest 3/4-ton pickup, and even that would be a big compromise.

The smart choice would be a one-ton with proper load range "E" tires, dual rear wheels, and a full-floating rear axle. Keep in mind that even a one-ton 3500 is still technically a light-duty truck.

You don't need to pay for a fancy diesel engine to tow a car trailer. Escalating wants and desires of consumers fuel the current horsepower and torque race in light-duty trucks, but the truth is, modern pickups are not lacking for horsepower, no matter which engine you choose. People have successfully and safely towed massive amounts of stuff with no more than about 200 horsepower, forever. Diesel fuel typically costs more than regular gasoline in the U.S., which makes it nearly impossible to recover the additional cost of a diesel engine option based upon any actual fuel savings that may or may not occur.

If you skip the foofy stuff, you can get a one-ton dually for no more money than a typical loaded half-ton. GM's "W/T" (Work Truck) comes to mind- they may come with rubber mats and vinyl seats, but they are far from stripped. GM's one-ton dually W/T comes with big 4-wheel power disc brakes, ABS, power steering, air-conditioning, power windows, tilt steering column, cruise control, power door locks, a 6-speaker audio system with blue tooth, a 7" touch screen, a rear-vision camera, an Eaton locking rear diff, a 2.5" hitch platform, trailer wiring, integrated trailer controller, heavy-duty 6-speed automatic transmission, heavy-duty engine oil cooler, 150-amp alternator, heavy-duty transmission cooler, 4.10 rear end gearing, and a standard 360-horsepower Vortec 6.0 V8 gas engine. Looks like they start at $40,595, and you'd probably be able to negotiate a price less than that.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 6130 (Post 571405)

Operating well within the rated towing capacity of a vehicle (like for example towing a 6,000-pound trailer behind a one-ton dually that has a 13,800-pound rated towing capacity) would be much safer than towing something that is at or near the maximum rated towing capacity of a vehicle (like for example towing a 6,000-pound trailer behind a vehicle with a 7,400-pound rated towing capacity).

It's not like you're 100% safe towing 7,399 pounds and the truck spontaneously blows up at 7,401 pounds- the laws of statistical probability are at work here. If you're maxxed out on your towing capacity, then it stands to reason that you would be expected to be the first one to have problems. Heck, I've seen plenty of tire, brake, wheel bearing, and rear drive axle failures in half-ton trucks that have never carried or towed a load.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tar Heel (Post 571417)

I don't have a dog in this fight but I know in the last 2 years we've towed 7K lbs. (24' enclosed trailer and car) with a very well equipped late-model GM 1/2 ton truck. We then sold that truck and bought a 3500HD DRW 4WD Duramax and towing the same set-up was night and day difference. I'm not even talking about the power either. The 1/2 was a constant white knuckle event with sway even with good weight distribution bars and a sway control kit. All of that disappeared with the one ton. Tow with a DRW truck one time and see if you ever go back.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 6130 (Post 571412)

Half-ton trucks may be better than they used to be in some ways, but half-ton trucks have never come with full-floating rear axles or load range "E" tires, and those things were standard on 3/4-ton trucks for many, many years.

Conversely, 3/4-ton trucks have never come on P-metric (passenger car) tires, and 3/4 ton trucks have never had their rear axles held in by something as flimsy as C-clips.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MR DERBY CITY (Post 571456)

Just take a stroll through the pits at a local points meet. That will answer all your questions regarding 1/2 ton pickups. Do you want to save money,.....or save your life....??

Quote:

Originally Posted by james schaechter (Post 571463)

The only person that will really push you to a 1/2 ton is a salesman with a lot full of half tons for sale! I agree, the new half tons are much better than they used to be. They might just let you drive over your head. 3/4HD and one tons are much more stable, safer braking, and will be more reliable as they age. A half ton that barely makes the grade is stressed a lot more for my comfort level.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmcarter (Post 571471)

X2, also in one of the related threads someone mentioned the financial benefits of possibly just renting a truck for towing a trailer a few times a year. Not wanting to use my Motorhome for a quick 5,000 mile trip to pick up my new race car I rented a 3/4 Ford from Enterprise Rent a Truck and with the 6.2 gas motor it performed flawlessly for far less $ per mile than I could have done otherwise, new trucks are so pricey renting may make sense for you as well.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1320racer (Post 571679)

this^^^ and this vvvv

Quote:

Originally Posted by 6130 (Post 571872)

Exactly.

...and other people's lives too- there are other innocent families out there on the roads, that may not be as keen on risk-taking.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 6130 (Post 571873)

Yup. I'm born and raised in the car business (although I worked in the back end, not the front end), and I can't even begin to tell you how many times I have seen some coke-head car salesman blowing smoke up somebody's butt regarding this subject.

They're afraid that if they tell the customer that he would be safer towing a 3/4 ton, a one-ton, or a one-ton dually, that he'll lose his sales commission to some other coke-head car salesman down the street, when the other guy offers to sell him a half-ton pickup and a 5th wheel hitch to go with it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by nhramnl (Post 571881)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Barry Polley (Post 572120)

Oh for sure. But, the new 2500/3500HD plus trucks also have bigger brake packages. I put safety first. Not $. You are asking a light duty truck to do the job of a Heavier duty truck. I like most guys on here have towed with lighter trucks. I like piece of mind. IMHO...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ed Wright (Post 572233)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave Gantz (Post 572238)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ronnie Hamlin (Post 572258)

When (not if) you get into an emergency or panic situation, you will be thankful if you have more vehicle than you need for what you're pulling.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ed Wright (Post 572265)

A lot of us have been there.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shaun Quill (Post 572373)

I believe in overkill when it comes to towing. Much better safe than sorry. I’ve been there and I’ll never tow with any less than a dually. Dual wheels make it so nice going down the highway and if you ever come up on a hairy situation you’ll be glad you had those big brakes. Station wagons may go up and down the highway just fine, but if you ever need to avoid a situation or stop quickly you may be in trouble. Just looking out for you.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ed Wright (Post 572381)

I agree. A doolie would be safer.

Seems like a pretty clear answer to me.

But from all of this sage advice, you conclude that your station wagon is the best tow vehicle. That just makes no sense.

If you're just asking the question because you just want to do what you just want to do, and you're looking for people to affirm your choice, then you should probably let us know that up front.

As I stated before, you can buy a brand-spanking new 1-ton dually for less than $40,000, with a full warranty, big 4-wheel power disc brakes, ABS, power steering, air-conditioning, power windows, tilt steering column, cruise control, power door locks, a 6-speaker audio system with blue tooth, a 7" touch screen, a rear-vision camera, an Eaton locking rear diff, full-floating drive axles, load range "E" tires, a 2.5" hitch platform, trailer wiring, integrated trailer controller, heavy-duty 6-speed lockup automatic overdrive transmission, heavy-duty engine oil cooler, 150-amp alternator, heavy-duty transmission cooler, 4.10 rear end gearing, and a standard 360-horsepower Vortec 6.0 V8 gas engine.

Re: What factors Determine Tow Rating

That's just dan. Aske a question, half a dozen very experienced races take the time to tell him what we have learned, and he then tells us why we are all wrong, and tells us all what the correct answer (in his head) happens to be. All from his vast experience racing his IHRA Pure Stock car a couple of years. Why does he ask if he already knows everything? And, why do some of us still bother to try to help him?

Re: What factors Determine Tow Rating

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ed Wright (Post 573382)

Ed, you’re just as guilty as myself and countless others; giving the benefit of the doubt. That’s one of the great things about class racers. First time I brought my stocker out I was vastly unprepared and it was probably pretty obvious, despite that a seasoned and successful racer lent me a hand (VanLant BTW). Learned my lesson, when I picked up my new car up north in May I drove back within 50 miles of a big combo race at TriState. Dan will undoubtably learn lessons as well, meanwhile we’re here to help. Sure bests posting BS on FB.

Re: What factors Determine Tow Rating

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ed Wright (Post 573382)

That's just Dan. Ask a question, half a dozen very experienced racers take the time to tell him what we have learned, and he then tells us why we are all wrong, and tells us all what the correct answer (in his head) happens to be. All from his vast experience racing his IHRA Pure Stock car a couple of years. Why does he ask if he already knows everything? And, why do some of us still bother to try to help him?

Got it...

Re: What factors Determine Tow Rating

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ed Wright (Post 573382)

ED, you flat nailed it....

Re: What factors Determine Tow Rating

These towing stories take me back to one evening, more like early morning, over in Chicago. Somewhere around 1998 or 99,, we switched from local bracket racing to the divisional stuff. I purchased a 1977 Coachman Leprechaun motor home. A whopping 22 foot long. We also purchased a 26 foot Haulmark box trailer ( The one we still have) .The Coachman had been garaged in a barn its entire life, and was in amazingly good shape. But it had a very anemic Ford 460 200 HP / 350 FT LBs TQ engine. So I get the idea I going to make this super duty tow vehicle and " Tim Taylor" it. So I take out the engine and head over to Platinum Engines. Todd Quinn, the owner helps me change pistons, carb, and intake manifold. He had some fun with it, milling the heads and CC'ing them to get a true 10 to one compression. He calls his buddy at Bullit Cams and they come up with a cam grind.It had 4.11 gears and only a 3 speed transmission so the cam they came up with was a little on the aggressive side , but said it would be a great pick for hilly terrain over here in eastern Ohio. I think 224 @ .050 comes to mind ... While we are waiting on push rods to come in, I had a buddy install a huge Dyno Max exhaust system. After we get it built, Todd wants to dyno it, so we do. 357 HP and 505 Ft lbs of torque. We get it all installed in the Motorhome, and to our delight this thing sounds like a Super Comp car.. At 800 rpm it idles with authority.In that little MH, this thing would fly. Took it out for its madden voyage with 10 thousand lbs of car and trailer on the back, and headed over to the West Virginia line to the biggest hills around. It topped those babies at 65 mph!. We're happy as heck, and we turn around and come home....That's when something very ugly reared its ugly head .. BREAKS ! . The old girl had drums all the way around, and stopping that much weight, was not going to be something it was very good at. We towed all over the eastern US in that old rig. The Coachman Hilton we called her. Honestly, its a wonder we weren't killed in it. Many a night I got off work at 5 and brother John and I headed for St louis , or Chicago, or Bristol. 8 and 9 hour tow's .. Travelling all night in that old MH was always good for at least one white knuckle ride. Not only did big semis just blow you right into the rumble strips every time one went around ya, but at least once a trip, we would have one of those " OH SHEEEET" and bout hit someone in the caboose ..
Getting back to my Chicago story. It was 4 or so in the morning, and we are close to getting to the track at Chicago. We have our CB radio on, and are scootin down the interstate when we get into what I wanna call "whoop de do's " . You know, interstate that sets your truck romping back and forth like a hobbie horse. We had been into them before, but these were kind of on the bad side.( For all you Division 3 guys, kind of like the staging lanes at National Trails used to be.. LOL ) I could feel the front end getting light, then as we bottomed out in the lane... having full control again. No big deal, we just ride it out, just like all the times before.. Then the CB lights up ! Hey Bob , says this trucker . and he's almost shouting " HEY BOB,, YOU SEE THAT WESTBOUND CAMPER DOING WHEELIES !! ?? The WHOLE front end comes off the ground .. He's doing WHEELIES !". His buddy comes back and says " The one pulling that real long trailer with that wee little Motorhome ? ..His pal comes back and says " YEA WATCH "! Then as we do a few more pop ups for them they just freak out .Those guys thought they were witnessing the best thing since sliced bead, not knowing we do this **** every weekend all over the country in this crazy thing. Bottom line is, we all do what it takes to race, and sometimes we're just stupid …..

Re: What factors Determine Tow Rating

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lew Silverman (Post 571061)

Tow vehicle weight and axle ratio are two big factors, Dan. What you're looking for is Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) which is the actual maximum weight on each axle and Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR) with is the total weight of both truck (with fuel AND cargo) and the fully loaded trailer. There are any number of variables the factory uses, but every truck has a recommended GCWR that must be taken into consideration. Are you going to be using a 5th-wheel or tag trailer? Different hook-ups will also effect the weight you can carry. You may also notice that the vehicles with higher tow ratings are equipped with steeper axle-ratio's, which will effect your fuel mileage. Take your trailer to a public scale and get a fully loaded weight as well as a tongue (or 5th-wheel) weight. Then compare those figures with the tow ratings for the Silverado. As long as you don't exceed those numbers you'll be fine!

http://webcontent.goodsam.com/traile...wGuide2018.pdf

Axle ratio turns out to be the biggest variable I have found.

I have a 2wd crew cab dually with 4.10 rear gears.
It has a max tow rating of 10,500 lbs.
Had someone just checked the 4.30 rear gear option when the truck was ordered the tow rating would have jumped to 13,500 lbs.

All other things are the same.
Same engine, trans, suspension springs and brakes.
Just a gear change can make that much difference as to what you can legally pull

Re: What factors Determine Tow Rating

Quote:

Originally Posted by kdanner (Post 571410)

Have to disagree completely, I wouldn't think twice about a modern half ton truck towing that amount of weight. They have way more brake now, way more tire which lets the brakes really work, ABS that actually works without locking up tires, way more gears in the trans, heavier duty trans, heavier duty rear axles, tow/haul modes for the trans that really help via engine braking, fantastic OEM trailer brake controllers, trailer tire pressure monitoring. More capable than what a 3/4 ton truck was not long ago. Now I wouldn't feel comfortable with over 6 tons behind one like they advertise them being capable of, but 3, oh yeah, they'll do that very well.

I agree.
I recently made 2 trips to the track with my 2011 f150 4wd and the 5.0 Coyote engine.Towed great, braked well and got 15 mpg.
While the trailer was 5,000 lbs with car, the brakes on these newer trucks are far superior today than 1/2 tons from the 80's.

On the flip side, there's no way I would feel comfortable pulling my 7,500 lb. enclosed with the same 1/2 ton even tho Ford "rated" it for more.
That's what I have an F350 for