Re: How to adjust the rear drum brakes
 

When people are building a stocker , I think the most popular question is " is it worth it". So my answer is this. It al depends on what you are trying to do. Run a few under the index or be the fastest car in the class. And more importantly, how much do you want to spend. Anytime you can make more power or lighten up rotating weight you can make the car quicker. Just how big is your wallet. If you are on a budget, get the basics right before you start looking for every hundredth. But don't forget 10 hundredths make a tenth. Good luck to all building cars. Gary

Re: How to adjust the rear drum brakes
 

Gary, ( X2 )

Great advice Lonnie , you need to listen to those Parker boys !!!!

Re: How to adjust the rear drum brakes
 

The aluminum GM rear drums save about 5 pounds each vs. cast iron. I have seen iron with stamped steel around the perimeter as well as the center, and some that were all cast around the outside, so the weight saving will vary. I have even used the aluminum ones on the front of an A body with X body (Nova, etc.) hubs that had removable drums. The 2.5" wide shoe hangs out a little. I'm glad I scored some aluminum drums when the pic-a-part yards had them.

Re: How to adjust the rear drum brakes
 

The light weight disc brakes is the only way to go. Huge weight savings and the stopping power is much better. I could not believe the difference when I made the upgrade.

Re: How to adjust the rear drum brakes
 

I agree. I can't imagine messing with drum brakes now.

Re: How to adjust the rear drum brakes
 

Totally agree with Mike and Ed. I ran aluminum drums on the rear of my car until the end of the season then switched to mark Williams single caliper rears. I cannot believe how much better the holding and stopping power is. I even had the soft shoes that held way better than the stock ones.

Re: How to adjust the rear drum brakes
 

One thing I did was swap the adjusters side for side (Fords have a right and left hand), then put a spacer in the middle of each one to the correct adjustment.

When the adjuster tries to adjust the brakes, it only succeeds in tightening the adjuster against the spacers.

If I do need to adjust the brakes tighter I just have to hand file the spacers the appropriate amount.

Re: How to adjust the rear drum brakes
 

First I use two long shoes per wheel, meaning when doing the brakes it takes 2 sets of shoes to do the job.

I also assemble the brakes on the bench, measure the top where they meet and find a socket that is that OD to hold the shoes apart as if they were on the car. Then using 80 grit sand paper, scuff high spots of the shoes until you have 100% lining to drum contact, then adjust until they just scuff the drums, install on car, tighten lugs by hand with spacer to hold drum on, lightly seat drum with hammer and re-adjust on the car just until they hit the drum (There is a tool for it too)

I do this for the front and rear. All backing plates have three spots per shoe where they rub, you should sand this down, and then go to 400 sanded with WD40, then 1000, then 1500 then polish it with metal polish. Do the same with the shoes, and then coat it with Sta Lube synthetic brake grease,,, and your ready to rock!

Re: How to adjust the rear drum brakes
 

^^^^^ What Trmnator said. The 2 long(secondary)shoes provide more holding power when footbraking. You can also use a larger diameter wheel cylinder from a station wagon or whatever crosses over to provide more power to the shoes. More surface area of the wheel cyl provides more lbs per sq. in of pressure. Conversely less surface area of the master cyl piston provides more pressure. A larger MC piston provides more fluid flow with less pressure. If you switch to dic you most likely will need a larger bore MC. Also check pedal ratio 6:1 is what you want. 12" long pedal you want the MC to attach 2" down from the pivot point.