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I'm sure I wouldnt. |
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1320 racer, why don't you just shut up!!!
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BTW, I also run 3/8" .080 wall, 1 piece pushrods and ain't ever broke a pushrod in any of my race engines EVER! |
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BTW, I also run 3/8" .080 wall, 1 piece pushrods and ain't ever broke a pushrod in any of my race engines EVER![/QUOTE]
There's a statement that shows your complete ignorance. Pushrods flex a helluva lot before they break. I would think that a 7/16" x .120" wall pushrod in your car would pick up some HP and I'm surely not "Grumpy" Jenkins. |
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and you would be wrong! Grumpy raced Pro Stock a long, long time ago and built high RPM engines for comp and pro stock which neither you are I are doing! Further, these same pushrods are in 1000s of engines built by the biggest names in sportsman engine builders, run in the super catagories as well brackets. |
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It's obvious to me that 1320 is just *very* insecure. He gets off on this because he has little else to do. Like the youngsters say, "don't feed the trolls."
Why else would he be spouting off on a class forum, if he's not a class racer? |
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Jim, dead on with a 0, a 3/8 pushrod unless possibly it's .120 wall with any real cam profile or spring pressure bends like crazy....seen it personally, not merely speculation. Would see witness marks on the head of rubbing with an observed static pushrod to head clearence of at least 3/16 of an inch please don't try to help this person! |
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Further, these same pushrods are in 1000s of engines built by the biggest names in sportsman engine builders, run in the super catagories as well brackets.[/QUOTE] So now you know what pushrods Grumpy used????? You spoke to him on the subject? You stated these are the same pushrods usedin 1000s of engines again how could you possibly know this to be true, did you personally assemvle or witness their installation? For someone that's constantly quoting "truth and facts" you never seem to have any "PROOF" to support your statements. So you're merely Speculating that you are correct. Now I've personally observed maybe close to 100 engines, big and small in the past couple years equipped with 7/16 or 1/2 in. pushrods (bracket, SS top sportsman) if you could explain exactly why these racers and their engine builders are doing it wrong by not merely using the 3/8 stuff we're all ears otherwise keep your speculation to yourself. Yet another subject you've commented on with no knowledge of the forces at work. Kinda lame for a guy who's supposedly an engineer. Believe I noticed on here someone eluded that sunset does your engines..is this correct? |
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the master tech continues to try while failing again, to argue about what he thinks he knows, clearly subjects beyond his experience, over his head and above his pay grade!:p
My engine builder as well as many other nationally known engine builders install 3/8" 1 piece pushrods in the conventional headed BBC super class and bracket engines making upwards of 1100HP! NO head rubbing, NO witness marks, NO broken pushrods on my current engine seeing 8000 in the lights every weekend, 36 weekends a season for the past 5 seasons, or my previous engine for 17 seasons! Not 1 broken pushrod in 22 years and over 5000 passes racing conventional headed BBCs with 3/8" pushrods!!! |
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I admittingly was foolish to assume a "master tech" with many certificates he earned from general motors technical college and who's skill set allows him to diagnose and repair a "modern vehicle" made at least $100,000 in the year 2013 when I stated I make at least 4 times your salary.
Shame on me.:p The op has read our replies to his question and made his decision. I'm done with this thread. |
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I'm done with this thread.[/QUOTE]
Thank God. |
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For an "engineer", 1320 can't even find a calculator (if he can't even do it in his head).
$380,000 / 4 = $95,000 per year. That's $5,000 less per year than 1320's math. Flippant comments, flippant math, I detect a pattern....:rolleyes: |
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$380,000 or $95,000 or $100,000 is not a good representation of knowlege that we get paid for, cause look at our Congress people. They all make more than that and look at what they knooooow.. reed |
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Perhaps I can help js72mav feel better about going with a crank trigger and put this thread to rest at the same time.
My all steel(except hood) 377" SBC Malibu ran a best of 10.22/131(6.51 1/8th) without the benefit of a crank trigger. So I purchased an MSD crank trigger and now my car is capable of violating it's 8.50 cert and topping 160 MPH. And I'm amazed at the stability of the timing and the ease of adjustment. Now, some of my racing bud's argue vehemently with me that the dramatic increase in my car's performance can be traced to the fact that my crank trigger is bolted to a 555" BBC that is planted in a 2500 lb. tube chassis Firebird, but I steadfastly disagree. I think it's the crank trigger, and I would never go back. 'course at almost 20 g's, it was a little pricey for a crank trigger! P.S. What on earth could Kyle have done to get sentenced to the gulag? He's one funny dude. |
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Why this site tends to prefer the edgy and enlightening comments of 1320racer instead of Kyle's colorful humor remains a mystery. TP |
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Let's see... 5000 passes / 22 years = 227 passes a year Let's see... 227 passes a year / 36 weekends a year = 6.3 runs a weekend THATS REALLY IMPRESSIVE!!!! |
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You know, it's really not nice to slam a person's career. Obviously your making snide remarks about Joe being a master tech. I suppose that's not as "good" as being an engineer. But your company resume' says your a "General Superintendent" and you "studied" Civil Engineering. I once studied civil engineering as I was a civil draftsman...but I wasn't an engineer |
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You don't need a lot of valve spring for this RPM and I am reasonable sure that his engine is not running a cam lift that is anything close to a competitive Super Stock or Comp car. So, at 8,000 RPM, Light valve springs and low lift (relatively speaking). - a 3/8 inch 120 trend push rod should last forever. Let's be clear here....there is a huge difference between big cube "Super" engines and Super Stock and Competition eliminator engines. If he were to were to run his car in Comp, with all those cubes, would be like A/EA index......wait, his carb is too big.....So he would be around an A Altered/automatic......he can't run within 2 1/2 seconds of these guys. So when he brags about having a "Rocket" and no crank trigger, no evac system, .....and he doesn't break parts, remember that it is all relative. I have the fastest riding lawn mover in my area and I have never broken a part.....(a little tongue in cheek for ya) |
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Guys, he thrives on the attention. Let it go.
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x1000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 :D |
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Damn, I tell the truth on here about half the time, and I get no where near the attention!
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Thanks guy. But the bad thing is, no one will know which half I'm lying about! Ha!
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Maybe I can talk about my experience with switching from a billet MSD optispark to a crank trigger while on the dyno. This may not be exactly what you are looking for but since you guys are throwing daggers back and forth maybe something about the topic would be helpful.
I was chasing a top end miss and changed all kinds of crap and it was still there. I had a new crank trigger in the box so I decided to see if it would help clear up the miss. I never even unstrapped the car from the dyno. Got everthing together and set the timing where it was in about an hour and was ready for a pull. There were no other changes. Guess what. I still had the miss. Still scratching my head I pulled up the data. From 4500 to 7400 I picked up 10-14 hp on a stocker except at the points of the miss. I rechecked the timing to make sure I did not find out something by accident. Still where it was with the optispark. Still had the miss but got a little more power. Cooled it down and did it over and same result. |
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When I still had my chassis dyno I tested thing like that all the time. You can move the car off the rollers, move it out of the shop. Drive it back in, tie it back down on the rollers, and pick up or lose 5 or so RWHP. Same day also, the built-in weather stations aren't perfect.
I would certainly call that a valid test, and would certainly show up on the track. Thanks for sharing. |
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Ed,
The car did pick up while still missing.I did share with you the cause of my miss. After I got that out the car definitly picked up more. I did not think a crank trigger could do that much but I am not taking it off. |
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Nope on the valve springs. The BS3 is sensitive to grounds and I ran a wire from the ignition box to the same spot on the back battery where the BS3 was grounded. Miss all gone after that.
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SBF crank trigger vs locked Dist at 9000rpm was worth more power. It keeps the timing at 1 spot better. Especially when using a timing belt.
At least that what we found out in the "bracket racing" section. I now understand Ed so much better. Yesterday he couldnt spell engineer and today he is one. |
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If you are talking about me, I have known all along how to spell it. Just don't call me one. LOL
Edit: I think some took what I said about 1320 being an engineer wrong. I work with engineers in my business all the time. I do like to kid a couple of them about like being like Sheldon on Big Bang Therory. They aren't , but I tell them they are. Sorry if I offended anybody. |
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A crank trigger can be anywhere from 5-7 hp maybe more maybe less, hp jumps all over the place on its way up to peak rpm without a trigger , its pretty ugly , have seen side by side tests on an engine dyno and I'm sure that anybody who operates an engine dyno will say the same thing .
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