Re: You got to be kidding?
I'm just curious.....do you need tethers on an eight mile bracket car?
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Re: You got to be kidding?
Im in the same boat as many. I heard the rule come up and figured Id be able to come up with something that would work really nice for my application, since Ive got two cars with slip-together style headers. Is the process to get something accepted on the NHRA site?
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Re: You got to be kidding?
It is about NHRA-approved.
My feelings are clear on this whole deal: If we have to tether headers collectors which evidently are flying off at an alarming rate (never seen it in 25 years of racing and 15 years owning tracks) they BETTER be adding - Wheel tethers, steering wheel tethers, lug nut tethers, Fuel cell tethers, battery tethers, hood and hood scoop tethers rear end housing tethers, WHERE would the TETHER RULE END? or should it ever end? Never have I seen a more stupid rule. Jok |
Re: You got to be kidding?
Thank you SSDiv6
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Re: You got to be kidding?
Chevy 620,
I wonder if a weld on ladder bar system on a stock Eliminator car (heck, maybe even a 4-link) would be considered a tether system for the rear end? |
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It is NHRA approved only. |
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Ed, I have never been more entertained that watching the 10.5 outlaws and the street radial cars run the 1/8 mile around your part of the country and in the Ozarks. And, I am a redneck, but not crazy....LOL I did test both cars at Ozark Raceway. They did not tech either car....Hell, I could have had 3 lug studs and they wouldn't have cared. Their comment was, if you race NHRA, that is good enough for us. My original comment was intended for 1320 racer that seems to enjoy 660 racing. LOL
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Re: You got to be kidding?
Bravo! An informative post from a racer who is doing something other than complaining, speaking to the NHRA and trying to come up with a cost effective and approved solution.
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This sounds way better! Thanks for the time and effort spent on this! |
Re: You got to be kidding?
Thanks Mark ................
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Re: You got to be kidding?
Good old 1320racer now jumps in and applauds a reasonable solution, mainly brought about by the "whining" of class racers and someone who knows (A56) about the subject
Quite a change from post #72 wherein 1320 tells concerned racers to "give up" and spend the measly $200, as he was going to do. Message boards and open communication (that some paint as "whining") can and do effect change.....there is power in numbers Recently board whining seems to have had an impact on start line prep and a possible mea culpa from Tom Compton Whine on fellow class racers....somebody is paying attention, regardless what naysayers like 1320racer say |
Re: You got to be kidding?
you clearly failed to read good old 1320racer's post #52 wherein 1320 states...
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Re: You got to be kidding?
buzzinhalfdozen aka class racer's resident moron, I mean "master tech" continues to try and entertain us.
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Re: You got to be kidding?
You buffoon, I wish you would put an LT1 in that car and run SS.
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Re: You got to be kidding?
why would turn my rocket into a turd to race on a junk track for peanuts and be treated like sh_t by the sanctioning body?
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Re: You got to be kidding?
I think we would all enjoy it. LOL
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Re: You got to be kidding?
I'm at Numidia Dragway every weekend from April through October, anytime you're feeling luckly, show up and put a number on the window just like you do in super stock!:p
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The is not need to use a castellated nut with a cotter pin. An aviation/aerospace specific quality locking nut should be more than sufficient. The fasteners shown below are what you will find typically in any commercial aircraft flying in the skies everyday. I suggest the following fasteners: Bolt: AN3-4A (Has drilled Shank for Cotter Pin) Washer: AN960-10 Locking Nut: AN363-10 MS9321-10 NAS1587-3 MS21046C3 (High Temperature) In the event NHRA decides to use a castellated nut and cotter pin, the part numbers are as follows: Cotter Pin: MS9245-22 (Corrosion Resistant/High Temperature) Castellated Nut: AN310-C3 (Corrosion Resistant) MS17825-3 (Castellated, Corrosion Resistant Self Locking Nut) If you need the technical specifications or data to substantiate the use of any of these fasteners, just let me know or send me a PM. |
Re: You got to be kidding?
I'm surprised steel self locking nuts aren't accepted. The recip airplanes (that's how old I am) that I used to work on used them to hold the exhaust on. Silver plated. I still have some. Our collectors don't get as hot, nor nearly as long as the header pipes did at the jugs on those engines (P&W 4360s). I have them on my car, have never had one loosen. Had castle nuts & keys a lot of places, but not at the jugs. I will probably just tig weld mine.
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The parts I listed are very affordable and the Silver plated ones are still available too. I totally agree with you, a reciprocating engine generates a lot more vibration than a race engine would. I believe the use of castellated nut and cotter pin is an overkill. In my years in the aviation business, I have never seen an aviation spec self locking nut come loose. |
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I have a couple of tubes that slip in to my collectors with the remaining tubes welded. I would like to know if any tethers or additional tabs will be required for applications such as mine? I have learned not to assume anything regarding tech. Tracy |
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Re: You got to be kidding?
Claud, I don't think he does. LOL
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Re: You got to be kidding?
Did you answer Gary's question in post #108?
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I see that your son is leading the points in Jr. Dragster.....congratulations Thanks Michael, I didn't see it. Oh, I was looking in Super PRO. and not pro....(bracket racing confuses me)...he is 26th, not bad out of 54...at his local track....I figured he was running super pro with his 9 second, Sunset engine car, and not just "pro". Bad move on my part. I raced my 11 second stocker in super pro and figured a faster car would do the same. That's what I get for thinking. |
Re: You got to be kidding?
Sorry to get back to the original topic..................
When the NHRA mandated that a "tether" be installed on bolt-together collectors they included a single product from one manufacturer as their "approved" solution to a problem which most people (not ALL people) agreed needed correcting. Had they included the statement "OR OTHER APPROVED DESIGN" when the original rule was published, they wouldn't have had to go back and correct it. That being said, has there been any research into what actually fails that allows the collector to detach itself from the header? Would it not be possible to have the tabs which are welded to both collector AND header break and cause the problem? The two current designs of tether's that meet the NHRA's criteria seem to prevent the collector from breaking loose from the vehicle, whatever the reason for that malfunction might be. Maybe if the Tech Committee had published a notice that a problem existed and asked for a solution from those of us who work on these vehicles everyday, a great deal of the confusion that now exists might have been avoided. "Build a better mousetrap, and the World will beat a path to your door!" - Ralph Waldo Emerson |
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