Originally Posted by Mike Taylor 3601 (Post 419625)

Kenny,
They will check bore,stroke,deck clearance,piston dish in my case,cc head, gasket thickness,cam lift, look at lifter,runners..... duration,spring pressure?
Jim Woods knows my engine well,probaly has my specs memorized LOL

The best way is take your car apart @ home,have head,intake etc. clean ready to go back together,I always set head,intake,bolts,pushrods rockers etc., all back in place @ home basically put all back together and just start bolts,that way you don't get to track putting back together and find out you left something @ home.
Show up on first day of pro am Friday of Sat. and Sun races,I always call the tech man and see when is good time to be there.
Since yours has'nt been apart this would really be good ideal, in case you have broken bolts or anything else that might need fixed. Measure head diameter of valves,they get bigger after miles,will flatten out 45 and make burr,best description around valve and cause head to measure big.
LT won't be too bad to put back,lot easier than LS,I know guys take heads off LS in the car,but I believe I would just as soon drop engine out bottom, I had to put water plug in pass head of my sons I left out ,I thought I was going to have to drop engine back out to get it in there, finally got it though.
Mike Taylor 3601

Originally Posted by KennyAnderson (Post 420282)

Hey Dan, I'm running OBD1 and its a completely stock 158k 4L60 (no E). Wish I had done some homework as a 4L60E and OBD2 car would have been much more desirable. I probably still would have bought my 93 just cause it was a good deal. I'm waiting still on headers, need to get a chip burnt, and mainly need to get the tranny to shift earlier and more consistently. Got a trans-pak kit that is supposed to make the valve body manual and I would like to tweak the governor a lil to be able to leave it in D for bracket racing. My converter is a 4k stall and with the LOW first gear and 4.10's I feel like a lil tighter might be better. How does the tuner cats deal work? Do you burn your own chips?

Originally Posted by KennyAnderson (Post 420321)

I'll have to do some homework on the Tunercats deal. I will get a chip from someone after making the final major changes but it would be nice to be able to tweak it in the future. I called Greg at FTI about a converter. He has done several converters for me in the past. When I told him about this project I could almost see the gleam in his eye over the phone. Its a non-lockup (made the changes to the tranny) 4k street fighter series. Plus I COULD NOT beat the price. Less than I found most used converters. 60' went from 1.92 to 1.68!!!!! Please tell me about the 1-2 shift fix on a non-E tranny. I just got a B&M Trans Pak and hope that helps but if there is something else I would forever be in your debt! LOL!

PS. Bullet will be getting a phone call down the road.

Originally Posted by Ed Wright (Post 420356)

He evidently has a '93 if it came with a 4L60 (not an E ), which has no shift issues with what guys call the "stall wall". That is only an issue with the '94/'95 LT1 PCMs. Had zero to do with the tail housing. It's a slip test issue in the '94/'95 PCM. I have a software hack for that. The OBD2 boxes happen to not have that. It has nothing to do with OBD1 or 2.
The '93 required a device programmer (aka "chip burner") and eraser if normal EPROMs are used. Also a couple of EPROMs and a piggy- back board, or spare factory MEMCALs with EPROMs which GM stopped selling in 2007. Some of the later MEMCALs came with OTP (One Time Programmable) proms. Saved GM about $.75 per unit.
Not sure where the 4200 stall limit story came from? Guys are running higher than that.