Originally Posted by Bobby Fazio (Post 629822)

Does this differ with steel vs aluminum pans?

Originally Posted by Bobby Fazio (Post 629822)

Does this differ with steel vs aluminum pans?

Originally Posted by 427FE (Post 629821)

How much heat do you want in the oil?

Originally Posted by SSDiv6 (Post 629843)

You want around 220 degrees F minimum to get rid of the water vapors and burn any deposits to prevent sludge. Dinosaur oil, 220 degrees F to 250 degrees F. Synthetic oil 230 degrees F to 280 degrees F.

Originally Posted by Jim Caughlin (Post 629914)

Really hard to get the kind of temps needed into oil in the real world, even if you have an oil pan or oil tank heater on your car, you'll be surprised how quickly it cools down just driving to the lanes. Anything short of hot lapping and your oil is probably too cold. Same goes for trans and rearend.
Interesting sidenote, occasionally on the dyno, you accidentally get the oil too hot prior to a pull, counterintuitively the best thing you can do is fire the motor and it instantly sucks the heat out of the oil, it will drop 20 degrees if not more. Bringing up oil temp with the heater while the motor is turned off is easy, very hard to increase oil temp while the motor is running. Monitoring oil temp on a dyno definitely proves that cold oil sucks a lot of HP.

Originally Posted by Wade_Owens (Post 353109)

Asking about Stocker Engines in this thread;
I have used Royal Purple 5w20 for the last few years. After being told time and again there are faster, better protecting oils out there, I'm now ready to look at some other avenues. What good experiences have you had with which companies?
I did try Redline 0-5 once also, it was faster than RP, but my particular engine smoked with it.
I know a bunch of guys preach the Joe Gibbs, but, I also know some of them supposedly said that their lifters wont pump up with it. True or False?

What's your opinions?

Wade O

Originally Posted by SSDiv6 (Post 629617)

There are many great oils out there that provide lots of performance such as Schaefer, Mobil 1, Maxima, HPL and others.

At the same time, I have seen many use the Comp Cams, Total Seal and Driven Break-In oils for normal racing use. By the way, the Comp Cams and Total Seal Break-In oil are made by Driven.

When I was helping a friend of mine with his Comp Eliminator car, one the dry sump hoses was leaking. I loosened up the hose to retighten the hose and had a rag to collect and clean the excess oil. When I looked at the rag, I noticed lots of Copper and other shiny metallic material and asked the owner what oil he was using because the engine was only on its 7 run. He told me he was using one of the brands of break in oil and that his engine builder, a well know engine shop, had told him to only run break in oil. So, at the next race, the engine let go a few rods through the pan and after I took it apart, all the bearings were gone.

I had a chat with Lake Speed Jr. and Nick Ferri about the use of break in oil for normal use on a race engine. Lake Speed Jr, who is a licensed Oil Tribologist and engineer, explained to me that break in oils are just that, a break in oil to be used to breaking in the engine on the dyno or for a limited use on street engine. Nick Ferri shared that he only uses the break in oil on the dyno and then switches to the specific engine oil for the application.

For break in oil, I use Total Seal that still contains the formulation from Lubrizol that was created for breaking in NASCAR engines. For racing use, not in an order of preference, Amsoil, HPL and Maxima. For rear ends, Amsoil synthetic. For manual transmissions, either Amsoil or Type-F trans fluid. For Automatics, tractor hydraulic fluid or Amsoil.

Originally Posted by RPM5595 (Post 630177)

So what is it about break in oil that is bad to use full time? What was the cause for the bearings going away? If the break in oil is better for initial run in how can it be worse for normal operation? This makes no sense to me.