Fuel Pressure Gauge: Electrical vs. Mechanical w/isolator
 

I'm a bit confused at this point; I will be mounting a fuel pressure gauge on the dashboard, and I don't want pressurized fuel right in front of my face. But the budget is getting thin at this point in the build.

It looks like an electric gauge would be in the low-to-mid $200 range, whereas the mechanical/isolator combination would be under $200. If price were no object I think I'd prefer the electric, but I'm not even sure about that. Budget considerations do allow for either choice, but price still matters.

Opinions? Experiences?

Re: Fuel Pressure Gauge: Electrical vs. Mechanical w/isolato
 

Isolaters are a pain in the butt and never give you a reliable reading.
I put in the analog electric in my car and a digital in Jeff Jewell's Vette.
Both work flawlessly and mine is dead on accurate with the data recorder.

Re: Fuel Pressure Gauge: Electrical vs. Mechanical w/isolato
 

I have had a couple different cars both with the Isolator system and have been happy each time. My isolator uses antifreeze to pressurize the gauge that is inside my car.

Re: Fuel Pressure Gauge: Electrical vs. Mechanical w/isolato
 

I have the isolater with antifreeze in 1 car. And a electric in my other car. I prefer the electric. Mainly because when it comes time to work on the car its alot easier to uplug the sensor than it is to take the line going to the isolater off the fuel rail. Due to where the port it goes onto is. Other than that they both seem to work well for me.

Re: Fuel Pressure Gauge: Electrical vs. Mechanical w/isolato
 

What's involved with installing an isolator? Do you have to put the fluid in and bleed the air out? Does the line come sealed with fluid already in it?

Re: Fuel Pressure Gauge: Electrical vs. Mechanical w/isolato
 

The isolater and line are assembled and filled with antifreeze and capped with a steel cap from the factory. The gauge has to be filled and comes with a little bottle with what I would describe as a plastic needle. You set the gauge on its face and fill the insides using the plastic bottle/needle deal. Through the port on the back where the line threads on. Then you run the line into the car. Remove the cap on the line and install it on the gauge.

Re: Fuel Pressure Gauge: Electrical vs. Mechanical w/isolato
 

Thanks for the explanation.

Re: Fuel Pressure Gauge: Electrical vs. Mechanical w/isolato
 

Just a question, is the isolator gauge open to atmosphere after it is filled? If it is closed does anyone notice a difference in the gauge reading when it's hot or cold?

The reason I ask these questions is, if the gauge is sealed to atmosphere temperature fluctuations will impact its reading. You may not notice this if it does not start at 0 on the gauge. I used to use a glycerin filled 0-15 PSI gauge for my tire pressure. I always had to open the vent port to zero the gauge each time it was used if the temperature had changed. I finally dumped the glycerin. This is just an example of a fluid in a sealed vessel, unless they are pressure compensated they may not be as accurate as you may think.

At least with an electric sensor and gauge, as long as the span of the sensor and gauge are the same it will give consistent readings.
Something to think about.

Sean

Re: Fuel Pressure Gauge: Electrical vs. Mechanical w/isolato
 

Can't beat the classic looking hood mounted on an older car. Simple , reliable, and looks like a stocker. Just a thought

Kevin

Re: Fuel Pressure Gauge: Electrical vs. Mechanical w/isolato
 

And I'd love to put it there, but NHRA tech told me no gauges on the outside of the car.