steel or cast crank for Stock Eliminator?
Putting together a GT/C '94 Camaro with a Jerico for IHRA Stock Eliminator ('71 LT1 350/330). Would you recommend running a cast crank? Solid lift cam should pull to 7,000 rpm. If not, should I just by-pass trying to find a GM steel piece and go aftermarket? If so anyone recommend a particular brand that they have had luck with or one that I should stay away from? I've heard the cast is lighter than the forged but was wondering if it would live behind a 4-speed.
Thanks for the help! |
Re: steel or cast crank for Stock Eliminator?
You have to use the crankshaft that came from the factory in that engine.
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Re: steel or cast crank for Stock Eliminator?
I would go cast, I know of many of SS cars that use cast and thier cranks last under must harsher conditions.
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Re: steel or cast crank for Stock Eliminator?
If IHRA Stock rules are like NHRA Stock rules, you must use a factory forging or casting. You can use a GM forged crank, that's what I'd run for the sake of longevity. A cast crank MIGHT be a little faster, but it'll be measured in hundredths, if at all.
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Re: steel or cast crank for Stock Eliminator?
I have been tempted, but the thought of taking the crank out in 3 easy pieces keeps me from going cast. Must be factory crank. Remember, your crankbone is connected to the transmission bone etc. with a stick!
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Re: steel or cast crank for Stock Eliminator?
Cast crankshaft, properly prepped is fine for that application... won't last any less than forged GM crank prepped the same. GM forged cranks aren't made of premo material and I have probably seen more cracked steel ones than cast...Make sure you select a core that has good cheeks on the top of the rod throws and good oil hole placement on the rod & main journals. Important to find a crank grinder that knows what he is doing as far a journal radius and to further enhance the life of your bearings, it helps emencely to have the crank surface hardened \ nitride or equivalent...
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Re: steel or cast crank for Stock Eliminator?
Bub, that is way you are the man,
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Re: steel or cast crank for Stock Eliminator?
So Joe.. thanks for the vote of confidence.. just another post to get me to senior status like you are... unless Admin will just grant it...
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Re: steel or cast crank for Stock Eliminator?
With an automatic I would say it's a toss-up on the crank.
I would be leery of a cast crank in a high-horsepower stick car. |
Re: steel or cast crank for Stock Eliminator?
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Re: steel or cast crank for Stock Eliminator?
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Re: steel or cast crank for Stock Eliminator?
For what it`s worth, I have a 78 Ford Fairmont bracket car with a 428 Cobra Jet and a Jerico 4 speed that runs 10.0`s at 132MPH, has gone 1.29 60 foot. All the 428 Fords came with cast cranks, I don`t rev my engine to 7000 RPM, but it does hit 6700 thru the traps. The crank is a .010" under stock Ford 40 plus year old piece, and has been in the car for 14 seasons now, never had any problems with the crank. I have the crank MagnaFluxed every 4 or 5 years when I freshen the engine, and so far, it looks like it will outlast me! I have heard that sitting on a 2 step for a long time isn`t a great idea, but I don`t normally do that anyhow. Maybe the Ford cranks are just a bit better!:D
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Re: steel or cast crank for Stock Eliminator?
What Rory said.. My bracket 67 Mustang is a 427 with a stock 428 crank. Jerico and 3150 lbs. Nothing fancy done to the crank and I go through the lights at 7500. So far, the crank is about the only thing I haven't broken. Car has run a best of 9.83 @ 136.78 MPH. Results with other brands may vary !!!
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Re: steel or cast crank for Stock Eliminator?
GM cast nodular iron cranks are stout enough for the majority of stock/super stock applications. On a 396, there is roughly 3lbs difference between cast and forged and for a 454, the wieght penalty is closer to 4lbs. I have seen numerous 468's with 2 bolt mains and cast cranks (bracket engines between 600 - 675HP) and never have I seen a broken crank.
BTW, 3 to 4 lbs off the crank is not insignificant in terms of performance. Maybe not measurable on a water brake dyno, but physics still governs our universe the last time I checked. :) Take care guys. |
Re: steel or cast crank for Stock Eliminator?
What Bub said! And to add I have used cast cranks in S/SS cars of all kinds over the years. The most important part is to mag properly and to have someone with the experience to read what the mag is telling them. Good balance job and you are good to go. I usually run cast cranks 4 years as long as the magnaflux viewings haven't changed in 3000+lbs cars. If the balance isn't correct it dosen't matter if you have an unobtainium crank and 8 bolt mains it is coming apart. Just imagine at 7000 rpm the explosion that is going off in the bottom end when something breaks. Personally I have also seen more broken forged cranks than cast. Also just because the local machine shop has the latest greatest balancer dosen't mean that the guy operating it knows what he is doing. If you haven't ever seen or had this done, find a shop with all the BHJ block-true fixtures. The variances in a SBC will make you wonder how it ever went 10 miles in a passenger car much less a racecar. Find a company or crank grinder that can talk to you about fillet radius, crank snout runout, etc and you won't have a problem.
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Re: steel or cast crank for Stock Eliminator?
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Mopar 400ci with a cast crank and 4 speed , 65 b-body and 11 inch slicks....crank broke on the line after a 5500rpm launch, it was prepared by an excellent machine shop in Al that built a number of IHRA stockers...some with cast cranks.......just my experience. You have been enlightened. |
Re: steel or cast crank for Stock Eliminator?
Built a 295/350 SS motor with a cast crank back in the early 90's, never had a problem with the crank.
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Re: steel or cast crank for Stock Eliminator?
An engineer in the Performance Group at the GM Tech Center once told me cast cranks possess the durability to withstand up to 7,000 engine RPM. He also stated that beyond 7,000 it is a crap shoot.
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Re: steel or cast crank for Stock Eliminator?
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My experience may have been an aberration because I've known a bunch of people that have had great success with cast cranks. Hell, I watched a Hemi 4-speed guy blow 3 separate pieces of crank out underneath the car when he dropped the clutch...ouch! Jim |
Re: steel or cast crank for Stock Eliminator?
I am still running the same Crank,Rods & Block That Woodro Josey Built me in 1994,The Crank is Cast & has at least 2000-2500 Passes on it,Listen to Bub he has a very good Reputation,I know I have been pushing my luck with the Rods so I am putting new Rods & Pistons in before I run it thisYear,But a good Cast Crank will Last.
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Re: steel or cast crank for Stock Eliminator?
i know a guy that has twissted a 331 chevy 8200 for the last 7 years and still has the motor in the car with a cast crank. it surprised me.
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Re: steel or cast crank for Stock Eliminator?
I will take a Cast over a Steel any day,,,,,,,just my opinion!;)
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Re: steel or cast crank for Stock Eliminator?
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Also, don't know if you remember me. You did a set of iron LT1 heads (the first ones you ever did at the time if I remember correctly ...) for my Impala SS to run in Pure Stock when I lived in NC. I sold that car but it went on to set a National Record in IHRA. Thanks. Scott |
Re: steel or cast crank for Stock Eliminator?
It also depends on your car weight and launch rpm, e.g. heavy car vs. not so heavy car. Also, upon make of engine. From a big-block Mopar man's perspective, I'd choose a forged unit over a cast unit in a 4-speed application; especially if you're going to hit 6500 rpm and beyond.
Ask yourself this: will any immediate performance gain be worth any reliablity problem$ in the long run? Then make your choice. |
Re: steel or cast crank for Stock Eliminator?
After Whitaker and Josey voiced their opinions this thread should be over.
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