CLASS RACER FORUM - Rim Screws?

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On stockers are rim screws still used to stop the tire from moving,or is this even needed today?Thanks for the info.

Rim screws are not to be used on radial slicks but the more powerful cars not using radials may need them.

Jim R

Why no screws on radials? What about a heavy car (3950 lbs.) and lots of torque? This will become an issue for me soon.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jesse Knapp (Post 130986)

Why no screws on radials? What about a heavy car (3950 lbs.) and lots of torque? This will become an issue for me soon.

This info was given to me by the Hoosier Rep. when I bought new radials for a 3600lb Max Wedge. They said that since radials use about 20lbs and up there was no need for screws.....It's their product so I figured they know what they're doing.

If in doubt, call your tire manufacturer.

Jim R

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jesse Knapp (Post 130986)

Why no screws on radials? What about a heavy car (3950 lbs.) and lots of torque? This will become an issue for me soon.

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I've run Hoosier radials on this car weighing 3880 lbs., making lots of torque since 2000, going through 3 sets a season, logging near 2000 passes in this time frame, running as quick as 9.89 and 1.28 60 foot and they have never been screwed to the rim!

Have run them with and without screws. You should not need them though.
Mark the slick and the wheel then monitor movement if any.
Have an old set of Centerline wheels on my bracket car that require screws.

Thanks for the responses. Car sits now with really old Goodyear radials on it and I wondered why it didn't have screws on the wheels. I do plan to use radials on this car, but may try to move it up a class to run lighter.

I have 9"-wide, bias-ply, M-T slicks on Centerlines with no tubes (the info for the tires says they require tubes, but they seem to hold air very well without tubes), and I am wondering if I put screws in the bead if I'll develop leaks? If I do need them, I wonder if 4 per side will be enough, or if I'll need more? These tires probably won't work well with 20 pounds of air in them.... I'll end up running 12-15, probably.... just a guess.

Any info or advice will be appreciated: mid-11-second car @ 3,600 pounds with me in it.

make sure the bead of the rim and tire is cleaned well and then mount the tire dry/without any mounting solution. You won't/don't need screws.

3500 lb stick car M/T tires 11 lbs air No screws

4100 lb. car. Hoosier radials. No screws, no problems.

Thanks for all the good advice! I'll try it with no screws, but with reference marks and check periodically, to see if I'm getting any movement.

I appreciate the help, everybody!!!

I have seen numerous sets of radial tires move (slip) on the wheel, from stockers to heads up 7 sec drag radial cars. I have also seen cases where the tire slippage is uneven. In other words the distance between the "marks" of the inside and outside of the tire differ by 1/8" to 1/4". When this happens, it can effect the dynamics of how the sidewalls react and cause some quarky handling issues that could easily be overlooked. I spoke with a gentleman several months back who had a similar problem with his beadlock wheels. Come to find out, the tire had slipped on one side, the sidewalls were now in a "bind", reacting differently instead of in unison with each other and this was causing the car to steer/move around early in the run.
Additionally, in my opinion, even if the tire slips evenly on each side, I don't want that variation to affect my cars performance. If the tire is slipping on the wheel, there is ET lost, or who knows even gained if the slip dampened the hit, helping prevent blowing the tire away???? Regardless, it is just another variable that we can control, so control it. Then it is just one less thing you have to wonder about.

And yes, for those of you who know me, I am biased. I have designed a tire screw (two different lengths)and stainless steel inserts (4 different lengths) so I don't have to resort to using the same sheet metal screw in a high dollar set of wagon wheels that I have holding the sheet metal up on my pole barn.

Everyone has their own opinion and way of doing things and that is what makes the world go around. So stick with what is working for you. I just had to throw in my 2 cents. Take care guys.

Chris,

You raise some interesting questions in what is a deceptively complicated issue. Looks cut-and-dried on the outside, but in reality, can have some interesting twists and turns, such as the slip on one side, but not the other, sidewall issue.

I'm gonna have to think about this one for awhile..
Thanks for you input!!!

I sandblast the bead area of the wheel to minimize slippage.