1970 nova ??????'S
 

im in the process of building a 70 nova and wanted to see what everyone has to say about different combinations that is competitive and wont break the bank im looking to run it in G or H any feedback would be great thanks

Re: 1970 nova ??????'S
 

There is only one 1970 combination that will put you in G or H, a 300/350.
Claim it as a 1969 and add the 255/350 to that list.
However, to be competitive in either, you will have to break the bank unless you have a big bank.
Or, unless you buy one already built starting at approx. $17,000. More for a better one.

Re: 1970 nova ??????'S
 

Both of the small block combos you want to run for those classes have been hit hard, and they use cylinder heads that are hard to find in good shape. It is just as cheap to build a 396/402 car. There's no such thing as a competitive (relatively fast) Stock Eliminator car to run those classes that is not going to break the bank, unless you can do all of your own work, and get a good deal on parts.

Re: 1970 nova ??????'S
 

Have to be careful 69 - 70 have diferent size tailights and side marker lights& front bumper.68\69 use
shorter taillights&side markers 70-72 use longer versions can't swap them back and forth without body
work. Mike Taylor3601

Re: 1970 nova ??????'S
 

I'm in the same boat here. How much do the tech guys lean on you to have the correct lights/bumpers for the year you are claiming?

Re: 1970 nova ??????'S
 

Ed's right. There are a lot of cars running as a different year then what they actually are. We used to run a 72 and claimed it as a 69 with the 350hp 396. I'm also building a 70 now to run as a 71-72 with the 350 that Al just mentioned. As an automatic it's rated 278 and 274 as a stick which is what I'm currently building. We do all our own engine and bodywork and one of our best friends is an upholestry guy. So the car is fairly nice but, even with that I'll have far more into then I care to think.
So, Alan is pretty much correct about you can't build a super competitive G-H car without spending a boat load. Even if you can do most the work yourself. However, it also depends on what your definition of competitive is. If you're looking to run .6-.7 under and aren't all interested in having it be the nicest car in the country it can be done on a reasonable budget.
I can't say if you're looking to be somewhat budget conscious that I'd look into a 396/402. While the majority of the parts don't cost anymore (pistons,rods,etc). Some of the castings as well as having really good springs, rockers, lifters which require a little more attention. That's the reason I chose to build the new car with a small block. After running our 350HP I knew I couldn't afford to keep up in A-E/S on my own. If you're looking to go -1.-1.25 under you'll have to spend the money for the best stuff no matter what combination you'd choose to use.

Best of luck

Rick Ryan

Re: 1970 nova ??????'S
 

Thanks for all the great feedback. for the first year i just wanna dip my toe in the water and run .6 to .7 under then build up and go faster. so what would be the proper class that would be recomended for my car with how fast i wanna run?




i love watching this class seems real fun after all the technical stuff. i have done alot of reasearch but i am still confused about how you run someone in your own class is it just luck of the draw on how you qaulify?


thanks again guys


scooter hamlin

Re: 1970 nova ??????'S
 

I still believe that it is easier to go around 1.0 under with a 396/402 than it is to run that fast with a 350, and possibly cheaper.

What you need to do is look closely at the area you plan to race in. If there are as many or more F,G, and H cars as there are A,B, and C cars, then I'd seriously consider building a 396/402 combination.

You get a heads up race by where you qualify. If you "hold a little" during qualifying and "play the ladder", you can most often avoid heads up runs if you want or need to.

As an example, we've been running A, and more recently AA, since 2005. We've only had a couple of heads up runs, and might have had a couple more if we'd gone more rounds at a couple of races.

If you want to avoid heads up races for a while, and have a lot of fun, consider a stick car. I drove one last year, it's a blast, and there are not that many stick cars, so you won't be likely to get a heads up race. Often you'll be the only car in your class. And the higher class you run, the less likely you are to have a heads up in a stick car. So an A, B, or C stick car is even less likely to draw a heads up race than an F,G, or H stick car.

Re: 1970 nova ??????'S
 

Alan you're defineately right it depends on what part of the country you live in. In this area our local S/SS races you can get 3-4 A-D/SA at each race with only 30-40 car fields. You're also just as likely to run into a heads up with a stick car at a divisional or national around here. There's usually 2 or 3 A-C stick cars at each race. I'm not saying one ways better then the other but it does defineately depend on the area your in. That being part of the reason I chose a small block. Around here there are too many fast A-E cars that I know I counldn't keep up with on my limited budget. I also agree it's probably easier to run -1.0 with a big block.

Rick

Re: 1970 nova ??????'S
 

Scooter,
I have a friend who has a '71 350-278 engine for sale that goes .7-.8 under. If interested, call Mike McDonald @ 812-677-1097.

Re: 1970 nova ??????'S
 

From what we've seen pass tech lately, Not Enough!

Larry Fulton

Re: 1970 nova ??????'S
 

That's funny! Dip your toe in the water and run .6 to .7 under. I think you will have to at least get in up to your waist to do that.

I think claiming as a '71-'72 would be the best way to go. More favorable HP rating.

Re: 1970 nova ??????'S
 

Yea you don't just run .6 or .7 under with one of those combos.... now then if you would want to run a 230 6 cyl....... that may not brake the bank ;)

Re: 1970 nova ??????'S
 

I have a 70 nova which i ran for 2 years in A/SA & B/SA with the 402 combination. Ran -1.2 under and won a race in A/SA. Lots of fun to drive. Currently running it as a 72 350/200hp combination. Car runs -1.18 under first year out and won a race in G/SA. It is a good combination and a lot less expensive then the 402. I repeat a lot less expensive than the 402. Maintenance is a lot less and the parts are more readily available for the small block. You can get 150 runs out of a small block not the big block. Did I mention the small block is a lot less expensive than the big block. Call me if you want to talk (845-216-8027), I will give you the pro's and con's. All depends on your time and money. -1.0 is easy with either combo. Find out the killer cars in A/B or F/G/H in your division, In Division 1 everyone is killer...........

Re: 1970 nova ??????'S
 

the 1972 combo is easier to make run than the 1970/300 but to have a killer you will
still have to spend the cash,just a little less..i have both combos and can give you the
highs and lows of each if interested. 218-878-3456 ron mattson

Re: 1970 nova ??????'S
 

Just curious if your talking $17k for a motor or a decent car???

Re: 1970 nova ??????'S
 

Gary Waldo's stick car is for sale.

Re: 1970 nova ??????'S
 

I was looking at making my nova into a stocker (pretty much already is other than motor).. I had 2 good engine guys qoute me a motor Both were $12,500 for a good piece... That I was told would have to be ran on kill to run .8 to .9 under in H/J/K That is a BAD place to be I have found out..

So I have came to the conclusion that I have to either get a different car/class combo or not race stock...

I have always wanted to race stock eliminator but I am not gonna spend 12 grand on a motor to do so, I race for fun but I want to be able to have some return on my investment.. so spending 3-4k on a bracket motor and I can more than pay for that in a year racing local..

Maybe someday if the powerball numbers hit..

Re: 1970 nova ??????'S
 

Fleming don't give up! Shop the classified section on this site, make contact with the relative sellers. They have all been down the same road and are in most cases, full of advice. There are several carburetors for sale on here now, and might save you some money. The best cam and lifters,valves, valve springs, retainers and push rods are what is going to cost the most (new). Roller rockers are legal and not having to worry about stock style rocker failure now, has changed things. If you buy your pistons from say CP they will supply a ring package that will put you in the program, legal rods are available from Summit or Jegs. Talk to some of the local Stocker guys to put you in the direction of "their" cylinder head guy. Make sure you have all your casting number cores correct for the class. Have the engine prepared and assembled by a local reputable shop and explain what you are doing, they might be interested in giving you a bit of a break on the labor and the right guy will work with you. A lot is in the correct preparation and assembly of what parts you have, you'd be surprised what will work and how long it lasts. You might not be the furthest under but you can be part of class and bracket race it too. You can progress your way to that $12500.00 piece. How much can you do yourself? That is where you can save. Hope this helps...MB

Re: 1970 nova ??????'S
 

I don't know if it makes you feel any better Steve,but I have been trying to put together a NHRA combo for over 10 years and all I have to pay for is parts cause as you know I do all my own work. I have 90% of short block stuff maybe this year hopefully.
Mike Taylor 3601

Re: 1970 nova ??????'S
 

Rick what do you base your statement on ,easier to run a 1sec under?, ask your dad if you have 20 25 to spend on a 375 410 then you may be able to run close to that in good air. 200 ft emmons went 10.15 with the best motor his engine ever built. only cost 30. a 270 350 is way better. Jim Hanig

Re: 1970 nova ??????'S
 

you do fine work too.. Flemster knows philbilly loan him a seat anytime. He just gotta let me know when......

I have a 396 at jeff taylors as we speak I told jeff i wanted a top half qualifier I wont talk numbers but a small block is relativly cheaper. just sayin...

Re: 1970 nova ??????'S
 

Haha thanks phil I may have forgotten how to race.. we'll see....

Re: 1970 nova ??????'S
 

Just like ridin a bike you might be a little wobbly at first,but then it comes back.LOL
Mike Taylor 3601