Radial slick Q?
 

I am about to purchase some new aluma stars for my Nova, I am going to switch to 9 x 30 x 15 Raddial slicks. I have never run Radial slicks before. I like the idea of no drilling the wheels.
My questions are.
#1. Tubes or no tubes?
#2. Glue?
#3 Tire pressure?
Thanks for the help.

Re: Radial slick Q?
 

I run the Hoosier 30 X 9.0R15 radial slick.
When I mount them, after the tire is on the rim but not yet seated, I wipe the beads of the slick, and the area where they will seat on the rim with brake clean, then air them up. No screws. Some people do use some type of glue. I do not.
I run between 18 and 21 psi depending on track. 1.40 60' best, with a 3500 lb small block Olds.
I love the tires.....

Re: Radial slick Q?
 

hoosier 29.5 x 9 radials,no glue,no tubes,i put screws in just because my rims have the holes already,but i dont think there is a need ,i went from a 1.620 to a 1.520 60' and run 24 psi ,,,one thing you need to be aware of is the size the radials run a little short on diameter compaired to a bias ply slick

gmonde

Re: Radial slick Q?
 

I run 30x9 Hoosier radial slicks, no tubes, no screws, 18 psi cold, wipe the inside down with palmolive dish soap before mounting. 1.319 best 60ft to date @ 3700lbs.

Re: Radial slick Q?
 

Hoosier lightweight radials here. They tend to take a few more lbs of air than bias ply.
No glue or screws but they can move a few inches in the first few races, then seem to settle in. I do swap tires to minimize the change and affect on balance. I run 21 lbs footbraking a 3,540+ lb IHRA Stock 360 Dart Sport.

Radials don't grow like a bias ply so the will result in higher rpms at the finish. They are also more sensitive to track conditions. So if a track is "marginal" or worse, they will not be as consistent as a bias ply. But radials do tend to be around .10 faster.

Re: Radial slick Q?
 

I have the M/T 30x9 on mine (i like the hoosier lightweight better) no tubes 24lbs of air 1.59 best 60'

Re: Radial slick Q?
 

Hoosier lightweight radial here also. We use a 30x9 @ 22-24 PSI. Our 60ft times are 1.60. Car is 4,300 lbs. No screws, tubes, or anything special in the mounting department.

Re: Radial slick Q?
 

Hoosier light weight radials 94 mm here for the dakota. 19.5 lbs, 1.50-1.53 60 foot. 3340-50 on the lbs with me in it. Nice long wearing tires. burnout is more important for less prepped tracks.

Mickey thompson et street radial drags 295-65-15 on the Challenger, 19.5 lbs Weigh a ton(38 pounds?), like a good burnout. High horsepower cars use them. mine suspension limited 1.748 60 foot. With cal traks and a higher rpm leave, likely 1.5 somethings. Consistent, slow, tough tire. I think they are "rockproof"

Re: Radial slick Q?
 

I was planning on getting Hoosiers radial tire, but whats all this about the light weight tire? I dont see it in Jegs catalog?

Re: Radial slick Q?
 

hooiser 18212C06 part number...item number 522-18212C06 @ jegs...no screws...i wipe the inside of sidewall down with Palmolive then mount..

Re: Radial slick Q?
 

Excellent, Thank you

Re: Radial slick Q?
 

You can find more info here under "Specs":

https://www.hoosiertire.com/Drtire.htm

Re: Radial slick Q?
 

M/T #3066R 30x9-15 Radials, 17-18psi. I've run 21+ in them like a lot of people, but that can bite you on a marginal track. At the lower pressure, they won't spin unless there is physically something on the track, or the chords have been hanging out of them for awhile. ;) No glue, no tubes, no screws.

Been 1.37 60' "on kill" at 3,335# in perfect conditions. Typically 1.44-1.46 at 3400# in bracket mode. I run these tires full time, even bracket racing.

Re: Radial slick Q?
 

WOW! So I purchased the Hoosier radials that Billy Baker suggested. I took my car out this past weekend and it picked up even more than you guys figured it would. My best ever prior to this was a 10.96. This weekend it went a 10.84 second pass. The first pass I had to lift at 1000 ft, the track was so green, I was going straight as an arrow then all of a sudden it came out from under me and I crossed the center line twice. In 18 years of racing this same car that has never happened, so my first thought was the slicks, but after I talked with track officials, they checked it right after my pass, they said it was because they had scraped the track at top end and there wasn't enough compound down. I waited and let a bunch more cars go down before I went again, last to passes were great.
Thanks for the input guys. By the way, I ran 20 and 21 lbs, with no change, 60ft were identical.

Re: Radial slick Q?
 

Tony,

Your good at 20-22 lbs.. If you ever get on a great starting line, pump them up to 26-28 and see how much you can PU... Try a couple lbs at a time till they stop hooking... You also don't need to do big burnouts !
They also make 94 " tall tire to go along with the standard 92.5 " tall..
Yes, they really work great ... You won't be SORRY................

Re: Radial slick Q?
 

Interesting thread on the radials, some good information.

A question or so if I may. I've heard that in order to realise the best results from the radials, your suspension needs sorted out really well, true or false?

If it's a new car, would it be better to set it up and work the bugs out on bias ply slicks first? Then when the vehicle is somewhat settled, change over to radials?