Turbo Stockers
In the 2010 rules amendments they have added for turbo stockers:
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By housing bore do the mean the inlet of the compressor housing? And they are measuring the id of the inlet right in front of the compressor wheel? Just making sure I am interpreting this correctly. |
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A mistake in their books, which eventually was corrected. PS If all they are going to check is size. I can make a stocker run 3 seconds under Every turbo car I know runs a stock turbo. not a "stocker turbo". If you cheat a turbo on some cars you would fly. There is a lot more to a turbo other than how much boost you can run. It's more about how quick you can get the boost. |
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If you think about it how many consistent number 1 qualifiers go rounds? Whether turbo, supercharged or naturally aspireated |
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If they are clueless about "size" I bet they will have fun with altitude et/mph corrections for turbo and supercharged sportsman cars.
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Prior to this rule the only turbo rule I have seen in stock is the header rule. Header permitted, turbo must remain in the engine bay. Art, do most or all the turbo dodge guys run the stock exhaust manifold?
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All that I know.
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Indeed. I view an exhaust port of a turbo engine similar to an intake port. Make the x port too large, and all you are doing is reducing velocity. I am not positive that playing with runner length for a small turbo would make a large difference. I am certianly not going to spend the money if I am facing being too fast anyway. There is a really nice cast manifold for my setup that I will most likely use.
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for a few years. Most of the cars I know use a stock or slightly modified stock manfold |
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1.) Assuming you are using a two-step, what rpm are you able to leave at? 2.) How much difference, if any, have you noticed with engine temperature being higher or lower in your et's? 3.) How in the heck do we figure out how to dial these things? I have noticed if we are running pretty close my car seems to fall off .05-.10 every pass. Is that pretty normal? Thanks for any help People tell me to just put a small block in it and forget this turbo stuff. But, I do like a challenge! |
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What brand of computer are you using.
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Stock Ford computer, MSD Ignition box.
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How much boost are you getting out of it.
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Also auto or stick.
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21 lbs. max. only 11 lbs. off the line. Automatic transmission conversion, car came stock with manual. max. rpm off the line is 2800 or it starts rolling the beams any higher. stock brakes and master cylinder.
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Whats your 60' and ET.
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two-step/ yes
i will get the log book this afternoon and give you guys the incrementals thanks again for the help; i really want to make this work |
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Try disconnecting the battery just before making a run. This should put the computer in open loop (learning mode).
I had to do that on one of my turbo cars. If I didn't it would slow up at least 1 to 1.5 tenths no matter what temp air etc. |
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Art, thanks for the tip. Disconnect pos. and negative sides? We are running a 4:88 gear. shifting at 5800 1st to 2nd and 5800 2nd to 3rd.
60' 1.76 330' 5.29 1/8th mile 8.37 1/8th mph 79.53 1/4 mile 13.37 1/4 mph 97.34 |
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Marc ,You can make 11 lbs @ 2800 against a 2 step?
How long does it take to get there? |
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I like to know also.
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How? Heck I don't know! :)
Like i said, I just started this deal; sounds like I shouldn't be getting that much? I will pay closer attention this weekend. Hope to test on Friday and we have a combo race Saturday where I will try and get as much info for you guys, just tell me what to look for. I do go to full throttle as soon as i stage to get the boost as high as possible. Do you think it would help to add brake pressure and be able to leave at a higher rpm? |
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You said "stock brakes" . Is that stock vacuum assisted brakes? |
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If everything goes the way it suppose to and I get out there in Stock next year, it will be my first reall attempt at bracket racing a turbo car. I am a little afraid that .05 off will not be to uncommon. I think the boost off the line will be the key. Ah well, I have no grandiose dreams of going rounds unless heads up runs. A record, and a number 1 qualifying spot will be my goal next year. From there I will see if I will campaign the car a second year, or move on to a consistent car. |
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Best of luck. have fun.
One thing I believe to be true is, don't mess with the hairdryer. All the cars I know that don't do that, are consistent. My car almost always ran the number (within a hundreth or two). But my reaction times were so bad I couldn't go rounds. Mark Poole in a turbododge finished in second place points in stock/superstock combo 2 years in a row at the "Hill" in Nashville. And there were a bunch of heavy hitters running there back then. So you can go rounds. My car was most consistent running it hard, running overweight but not shortshifting or playing with the boost.. |
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I also think boost and traction off the line are key. Because turbos need load to spool; the better your traction, the faster the boost will build. I think getting the traction off the line consistent is key. And, that's doubly hard if you're FWD becuase the 'groove' is 8ft behind your slicks... |
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Rob, have you tried the battery disconnect method? going to test Saturday and def. try this out. What about rear tire pressure? currently runnin 14 lbs but we're gonna try to play with that saturday too. What gauges you guys want me to look at and note? Want to bring all the information back to the forum that i can. I too just want consistency and then we'll start worrying about "other" stuff.
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When you are talking about computer controlled boost, are you speaking of electronic boost controller, or the factory computer. Sorry, do not know much about turbo dodges. I havent decided what boost control I am going to run. Im sure at first it will be a manual.
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What brand of car are you building.
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Plymouth, Mitsubishi, or Eagle. Haven't decided what I am badging it yet lol. :confused:
Since this is my thread, I don't mind going off topic. I am having troubles deciding between running the trim for the Plymouth Laser, Mitsubishi Eclipse, or Eagle Talon. Multiple reasons for and against. The Plymouth, and Eagle brands are defunct. Mitsubishi... Well, forced induction in class racing already has a stigma of its own, don't really want to add any more fuel to the fire. I lean toward Plymouth, because I grew up on Mopars, and my father runs Super Street in Div 3 with a Challenger. They also weigh the least. Eagle, is my personal choice as far aesthetics go. The car I am starting with is a Mitsubishi, so it would require the least work before paint. It would also be nice to run a car that the manufacturer is still in business. So any input? |
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again, i don't mean to hijack this thread...if u want me to start a new one i will. Tested Saturday and got some additional info. Car went it's best pass so we're apparently making strides.
60' 1.714 660' 8.19 @ 81.12mph two-step @ 3000 rpm gettin 9lbs boost at the starting line; fuel pressure turned up to 50lbs. shifting at 5800 Think we blew a head gasket but haven't taken it apart yet. Seems the battery disconnect was helpful but still want to get more data to confirm it. car was pretty dang consistent all day. Thoughts??? |
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The head gasket is usually the first to go, but the valves and the pistons are usually soon to follow |
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Ford SVO use to make turbo hp head gasket for your motor.
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We have an EGT. What numbers shall I get you from that. I will look into the SVO gasket.
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Isnt the correct gasket for the SVO
turbo 4cyl FEL PRO- 1035??? Comp 387 |
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Yes, 1035 Felpro is the wire ring gasket. About $50. Haven't kicked one out yet. Change the bolts every third install. Every time, if it's in the budget. |
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