Differences in Jericos
 

I see DR4, DR4-4, and Y2K. I understand the Y2K lightweight, but whats different in the DR4 and the DR4-4

Re: Differences in Jericos
 

You can find some details at www.jericoperformance.com

The DR4-4 is an upgrade over the DR4 with bigger components for more strength and about $1200 cost increase. Beyond that, with the DR4 you can upgrade to a billet front bearing retainer, the 6.5 lb heavier HD aluminum case, roller tailshaft bearing instead of bushing. You can pick drag race sliders, or to allow downshifting, the road race sliders. You can get early Muncie length, or 3" longer than that (shorter driveshaft = higher critical speed).

Re: Differences in Jericos
 

so the DR4 with a bearing support and case would be just fine for a small block stocker?

Re: Differences in Jericos
 

I have both the DR4 and the DR4-4. I don't think ones faster or stronger than the other. The only thing is that in the DR4 when I got it from Jerico, I ordered it with the Nascar aluminum case and the roller tail housing. Behind a small block stocker the DR4 will be fine but if you are ordering a new one, I would order the DR4-4 because of all the options already built into it. Also make make sure you use the proper clutch.

Re: Differences in Jericos
 

I have 2 older plain old DR4`s, top & bottom opening mag cases, slip yoke bushings, nothing fancy. The first one I bought was in a 8 second SS/AM Corvette for several years before I bought it, other than what changes were needed to bolt it to my 428 Ford in my bracket car (3100 lbs, 10.0 @132mph, 1.29 60 foot) I never hurt anything in 9 years of racing, until I broke 3rd gear earlier this year ($300.00 to repair). It`s working fine still, with all the same sliders & "stars" that came with it.
My second DR4 I bought off this site, and has been performing flawlessly in my M/S Mustang for the past 3 years. I would thnk that a basic DR4 would be more than adequate for a small block Stocker, but if you can swing the extra dough, the upgrades couldn`t hurt.

Re: Differences in Jericos
 

In a small block stocker Most wide gear versions will do. Keep in mind that there are some early models still in service that have "narrow" gears and some other differences that might not stand out to someone not familar with them. The biggest problem with the narrow gear trans with a small block stocker is not breakage, but the fact that Jerico may not have replacement gears anymore for them. Some of the early wide gear transmissions also have a narrow snap ring on the input shaft that can pop off and cause some carnage. I would stay away from these early models if you plan on racing with one.
That being said their have been really good dr4s out there for probably 15 years or more that have the wide gears and thick snap ring. They work great. I have raced these for many years and have never had a new one.I have had 7 or 8 different ones. I always start my research on any used ones by calling Jerico and giving them the number stamped on the case. They are very good at telling you the type of trans it started out as. A lot could change since it left Jerico, but at least you know if it was a narrow or wide gear and what snap ring and bearing size it has. I think those are critical items.

If you run a SSer or a Big Block car with one, I would certainly encourage one to usea wide gear big front bearing model with the top loader case at least. It is 3 lbs heaver, but probably worth it. DR4-4 is cool, but I don't know if it is necessary for most applications.

Of course, the soft clutch is a must with any of this.

Re: Differences in Jericos
 

I have one of those narrow gear Jericos. I have had it since 1988. I couldn't tell you how many runs it has on it thousands I suppose. It has always been behind a 340 in a car between 3100 - 3500 lbs. It has been hooked up to old clutch technology remember the Ram 3 pad disc with a 2800lb pressure plate to one of Youngbloods 10 inchers. It has set a few records and has never broken anything. It still has the original bearings in it.
2 yrs ago you could still get different gears for it. Jerico builds a good piece the newer stuff probably is better, but the old stuff still works.

Re: Differences in Jericos
 

lots of good info guys. Dad and I are considering building a small block stick car to get away from some of the factory race cars. That and dad would really rather drive a stick anyway. I was just wondering if the regular DR4 was up to the task, it seems that it is. Not trying to do it cheap, but these days money is an issue.

Re: Differences in Jericos
 

Just curious, but how much does a used Jerico go for and soft clutch set-up?

Re: Differences in Jericos
 

You can use the regular Turbo 400 32 spline output to driveshaft yoke with a Jerico but the splines are actually a little different in shape. Mark Williams makes special Jerico yokes that fit a little more snug. MW also can make the hardened yoke at 1.888" OD for the roller tailhousing bearing instead of 1.885-1.886" for the bushing. The forged yoke costs about $220.

Re: Differences in Jericos
 

I bought my DR4 around 1997. It's been behind 10.5" Soft-locks, dual 8" "Mag-Force" diaghram, and 10" Sportsman single. It's been "over clutched" (the Mag-Force), shifted both with and with out the clutch (only of course while testing:rolleyes: ) and has been from a mid 11 second stocker to a mid 10 second stocker to a 9" tired 10.00 Super Stocker. Through all this, no breakage. One worn front bushing was replaced. I've changed gearsets looking for ET and never once did I find worn or broken parts (except the bushing).
Now I'm going to a big tire, more HP and higher launch. If not for the confidence I have in the new Sportsman Dual 7" clutch I'm adding, I might be worried. But I'm not.
Used DR4's are $2000-$2500 and often times are advertised as being a fresh rebuild from Jerico. Used Soft Locks seem to be $800 +/- ?
I'd give up racing if I had to give up my 4-speed!

Re: Differences in Jericos
 

Can you use a Jerico on the street?

Re: Differences in Jericos
 

Yes. If you get road race sliders, both upshifting and downshifting are very easy and smooth, albeit noisy. It can sound like someone hit it with a sledge hammer :)

Re: Differences in Jericos
 

Chris a used Jerico will go for 1800.00 to 2500.00 depending on age and usage. Clutch depends on which one. I have a McLeod built by Hyatt with iron disc and aluminum flywheel. Mine was around 2200 for all of it.