Housing girdle for 8.75"; yes, or no?
 

Our bracket car will weigh 2.500 pounds,(probably 50/50 weight distribution) and will have a 550 HP engine (approximately) that will propel this '64 A-body (Valiant,) HOPEFULLY, to some high 10 second e.t'.s.

We;re using a 1965 B-Body (Dodge Cornet) rear housing with Cal-Tracs and adjustable rear (50/50?) shocks. Stock '64 Valiant 5-leaf rear springs.


We will be using 9", M-T bias-ply slicks (28"-tall) and a spool, footbrake launches (no transbrake) and hope for some high 1.40 60--foot times, at best.

Given those parameters, we are wondering if the $80.00 we are thinking about spending on a rear end housing girdle would be money well-spent, or, just totally unnecessary on a car with these specifications.

Any advice and information will be appreciated...

Re: Housing girdle for 8.75"; yes, or no?
 

Bill,,,,I'm thinking as long as you're just footbraking this car, you should be fine without the girdle. Sounds like a neat little Valiant,,have fun with it.
Danny Durham

Re: Housing girdle for 8.75"; yes, or no?
 

I have run over 1000 run on 71 Dart in Stocker in last 18 years and Housing still checks straight. Runs in high 10,s at 3400lb. B housing is a bit wide... will take a deep back spacing in not narrowed. I would beef up rear springs particularly in front segment. Hope this helps!.

Re: Housing girdle for 8.75"; yes, or no?
 

I ran a stock 8 3/4 with 11 inch slicks and a Max Wedge for years in the NMCA and never had any problems but I think you'll need to get Mopar SS springs or Calvert springs.

JimR

Re: Housing girdle for 8.75"; yes, or no?
 

If you run Chrysler S/S springs you will need to redo the spring hangers
to get the pinion angle correct. Spacer wedges only do so much.

I now have another 8-3/4 housing with the back brace and the spring pads
redone to correct that problem.

Re: Housing girdle for 8.75"; yes, or no?
 

Thanks, Danny; we'll have fun, fun. fun, 'til Daddy takes the head gaskets away.... lol!

Re: Housing girdle for 8.75"; yes, or no?
 

John,

Good advice! We are in the process of doing just that...

We're getting wheels with a back-spacing that will put the wheel where it needs to be. Stockton Wheel is good at that sort of thing;( my '72 Valiant has small bolt pattern, 7"-wide, 15" steel wheels, and those are not an everyday item.)

Re: Housing girdle for 8.75"; yes, or no?
 

Jim, we're hoping that with a 2,400-pound (sans driver) car, the stock springs may be okay with the Cal Tracs.

I wonder if we can use this stock, 170c.i.d. /6 converter with our 30-pound boost turbocharged 225?

Any ideas???

Re: Housing girdle for 8.75"; yes, or no?
 

Phil,
We are putting replacement spring pads on the housing, (I know, that's not hangers) and will try to get the pinion angle correct at that time. I said TRY... lol!

Thanks for the advice!!!

Re: Housing girdle for 8.75"; yes, or no?
 

Bill,

I've heard of people doing just that but have no experience myself. At thirty lbs I would be cautious with the converter especially on burnouts, rather than leaning on the converter I would flash it on launches. Should be adequate for the street.

Good luck,

JimR

Re: Housing girdle for 8.75"; yes, or no?
 

Jim,

This little 225 turbo /6 will never see the street.
It's just a hobby/race car.

Would you, or anybody else, for that matter, happen to know what diameter this 170 converter is?

It's still attached to the engine in the car (with the transmission) so, I can't measure it, but I heard it was an 11" converter, just like the rest of them (318/340, etc.)

I'd sure be interested to know.

Guess I'll find out when I pull it out.

Re: Housing girdle for 8.75"; yes, or no?
 

10.75 with a small hub... be careful all the early 225/170 have a small 1.51 pilot hub instead of 1.66 Hub used on most anything else. Check your crank and converter to makes sure compatible..... also spline count changed to 24 around 67/68 as I recall. Hope this helps... early Mopar stuff is confusing.

John Irving

Re: Housing girdle for 8.75"; yes, or no?
 

I have cut open and reworked 6 cylinder convertor and used them small bolt and all on my Super Street and Pro Bracket Cars as heavy as 3500lbs even with small 5/16 Bolts. The 6 cylinder and 318/340 converters are both 10.75
Diameter but 6 cylinder converter cover is totally rounded while others all have a flat area around 3/8 inch on top furthest from ring gear... this is probably more than you ever want to know:):)

BTW: Was not on Drinking Binge as some guessed 12/09 to 2/10.....Major Cancer surgery instead as a lot of people already know .....Would have preferred Drinking Binge for sure.

Re: Housing girdle for 8.75"; yes, or no?
 

John knows his stuff. The hub and spline change was in '67, anything after that is not compatible with the early stuff without a crank change.

JimR

Re: Housing girdle for 8.75"; yes, or no?
 

Bill, I stand corrected, it is the spring pads that get changed NOT the hangers.
I had a "B" body 8-3/4 housing cut down to stock "A" body width added a back
brace and new spring pads, just need to swap housings in the car.

Re: Housing girdle for 8.75"; yes, or no?
 

Jim, the converter will not last! Even in the turbo 4 cylinder broke the stock type converter with regularity. Dynamic makes some good turbo units. Jim

Re: Housing girdle for 8.75"; yes, or no?
 

Thanks to all you guys for the abundance of good advice!!!

I am getting a later (1970) forged crank (with the larger converter pilot hole) and will buy a conveter to match, most likely, from Len Schneider.

I just wanted to save a few pennies on the converter if I could, but as usual, you get what you pay for. I am too old for converter longivity issues... :(

John Irving; my best wishes to you, and prayers, too...

I lived in the SF Bay area from 1980 'til 2004, and had the pleasure of watching your EXCELLENT 340's run many, many times at Div. 7 races over the years. They have been, and are, an inspiration to me!!!

Hang in there.

Re: Housing girdle for 8.75"; yes, or no?
 

Thanks!!