Red Lights
 

Loooking for advice on slowing down my car's reaction times as cheaply as possible.

I've already adjusted all the delay built into my Biondo trans brake button and the launch rpm all the way down to 3000 and still tend to go red...and it sure didn't help to replace a failing SFI flexplate with that thicker Reactor plate.

The car is a Super Stock clone 800hp FE 68 mustang, c6 with a 5000 rpm convertor, 4.56 gears and 32x14 tires, 28" tall fronts to increase rollout...but it pretty much just picks the tires straight up.

What's your vote on the next cost-effective step?

Re: Red Lights
 

Stage as shallow as possible, and drop your front tire pressue in 2 pound increments until it stops red lighting. No coke, asprin, advil or coffee-cafeen of any type.

Re: Red Lights
 

I agree with Jeff "No coke, asprin, advil or coffee-cafeen of any type."
You might try blocking your view of the first and possibly the second bulbs and leave off just the bottom bulb.
You could also try putting as much travel in the front suspension as possible to keep the tire in the beam a little longer.

Re: Red Lights
 

Just as the others have already stated and take maybe a pound out of the rear tires to get them to wrinkle a little more. What are your tire pressures?

Re: Red Lights
 

drop to 2500rpm if it works, you've got a decision to make(replace the torque convertor)

Re: Red Lights
 

Thanks all. Yes, I watch my metabolism (cafine, etc.) and stage shallow. The front shocks (competition engineering) already have more travel than O.E replacements.

But there lies a possibility - the shocks are real old, and since I've encountered a need to keep adusting the rear shocks to go straight, even replaced them - I think the fronts are to be replaced this week.

Also tried the front tire pressure thing, but it wasn't till last week that I tried the rear tire pressure/wrap up plan...I think you're right, but with other inconsistant variables, results not great, will try further tests ASAP.

Sorry it took so long to post a reply, I really appreciate your input.

Re: Red Lights
 

Be careful staging too shallow, rememeber the tires are round. They are biggest at the the center, so you could be "hopping the beams" If the car is pulling the tires up that quick, pulling from the center of the tire will increase the amount of tire in the beam.

Also, look at the suspension points in the rear. You can change the instant center with ladder bars or 4 link and reduce the lift to the front end.

Just a couple of suggestions....good luck.

Ron
396V S/C

Re: Red Lights
 

Bill,,,please let us know what works for you when you get it figured out. Believe me, theres lots of us out here trying to solve the same issue. I've got a '68 Nova with a 355/Glide combo that makes nowhere near the power you have,,but I'm redlighting way too much. I too have the Biondo Terminator button, with all the shims out by now, and have my front tires down to 25 lbs. for a bigger footprint, dropped my 2 step down to 3800 rpms and am just flickering the stage beam and still going .020-.050 red.
The idea of the Terminator button is to eliminate the "guessing" when the last yellow goes on,, meaning you should be able release the button as soon as you see the last flash of yellow light, but its not working for me. With the LED lights now in use, I thought we'd never have this problem.
Heck,,I'm 58 years old,,,I'm not supposed to have reflexes like this, and its driving me nuts. Its enough to make you start thinking about footbraking or buying a delay box! I haven't tried using a blinder yet, but I guess I'm going to have to try it.
Good luck,,,Danny Durham

Re: Red Lights
 

I will drop 3 lbs. out of the fronts and 1/2 lb. out of the back for first round. Sometimes I will leave it out if the lights are good but if the nerves begin to settle I'll start putting air back in. :eek: Just crazy I guess. Footbraking with a 2 step.

Jeff

Re: Red Lights
 

http://www.fastronixsolutions.com/Wi...20Selector.htm

This might help, it's adjustable in 100 RPM incraments.

Re: Red Lights
 

Been there done that. First, let’s address the Biondo button. Whether it is slowing down with all the spacers removed is a function of how you are releasing the button. If you have all the spacers out, and are sliding your thumb or finger off the button, and letting it snap open, it actually gets faster with all the spacers out because the spring is getting stronger. It only slows down to about half the stroke if you’re slipping your release digit off the button because of the increase spring pressure. If you are pulling your arm all the way up and keeping your thumb on the button, you will see a slight decrease in time. Another important thing is the motion you are releasing the button with your arm. Believe it or not, trying to be fast makes you inconsistent. Having the same motion, and using the same muscles every time is very important. Doing a consistent release without being hyped up will make you very consistent, also not being hyped up will slow you down.
If you have a glide with an aftermarket case, you can slow down the transbrake release. There is a bolt by the transbrake solenoid that is adjustable. Most cases six turns out is max fluid release. If you screw this in all the way, then back it out 1.5 to 2 turns, it will slow down the fluid release and give you some additional time.
Yes, tire pressure will technically help, but I have found that front tire pressure does not make that much difference. I think the most important thing about rear tire pressure is if it is giving you consistent 60 FT times. If it is, my theory is that it is more important to be consistent than trying to slow the car down with rear tire pressure and perhaps making the car less consistent.
But, the most important thing is how you release the button. Blocking off the lights with tape on your shield works for some people. The challenge can be when to come up on the converter. Some people can figure it out, and some people can’t. Myself, I can’t have anything in my mind but releasing the button when I am looking at the light. If I am thinking about what I do next, I screw up. I have had to change my routine so I am not thinking about anything but the release. Another thing that helps is writing down what you’re doing, and review it before you enter the beams. Example, I always replete these things out loud to myself before staging. 1. Stage carefully and shallow. 2. Cut a .010 light. 3. After the second bulb, stare deep into the bulb and don’t have any other thoughts. 4. Have a consistent release. These things have worked for me, hopefully some of the might help others. FYI, chipping down will help, but if you are picking the wheels, it might hurt because it gives the motor a bigger run on the converter. Perhaps try getting closer to your stall and see how that works.

Re: Red Lights
 

I use the Biondo brake button at full delay. After running the front and rear tires about as low as I'm comfortable - One by one I've put fresh shocks on the front at 70/30 instead of 90/10 and moved the ladder bars up one and am pretty happy. It's time for wheels (old monocoque stars are flimsy and tired) and tires: thinking about the possibility of two things: 1) bead locks - they seem more durable than self tapping screws through an aluminum wheel and I don't imaging them negatively affecting the RT and 2) a narrower tire - thinking thaat they might get a half a rotation of the tire to slow the reaction time a bit more. If I go smaller from 32x14 like to a 10 or 12" tire I might then be forced to go a bit shorter too...which might change the effective gear ratio and therefore REDUCE the RT - your thoughts?

Re: Red Lights
 

Sorry I didnt see this reply before may last post.

I use an abreviated version of your staging procedure that includes steps for relaxation and consistent breathing. I also have gone to using the palm of my hand to slow down the trans brake release.

Interested in trying the increased RPM once the car is reassembled following year-end maint.

Thanks once again - Bill

Re: Red Lights
 

Bill,
You could always let me drive,,,,,, that way, you would never red light again......

Just a thought.


Rick

Re: Red Lights
 

LOL!

Just the opposite, I used to like working on cars, any more I'd just like to drive other people's Stock Eliminator cars like back in Division 3... know anybody? :)

Re: Red Lights
 

It's time for wheels (old monocoque stars are flimsy and tired) and tires: thinking about the possibility of two things: 1) bead locks - they seem more durable than self tapping screws through an aluminum wheel and I don't imagine them negatively affecting my RT problem and

2) a narrower tire - thinking that they might get a half a rotation of the tire to slow the reaction time a bit more. If I go smaller from 32x14 like to a 10 or 12" tire I might then be forced to go a bit shorter too...which might change the effective gear ratio and therefore REDUCE the RT :mad:(although the shorter the tire, the smaller the actual footprint of contact on the track, so maybe more likely to have the ratio effect the 60ft than the RT?) - your thoughts?