Stocker block SBC
 

I am starting at the bottom and working up a plan for the block and ran across a few questions.
In the rule book it states that the engine must be "same year" as car used. Is this to say you have to run a 1975 casting in a 1975 car? And do the tech guys really check casting dates?
Is it better to run an aftermarket (approved) Dart or World Products block?
My intentions were to take an old 4 bolt main block I have here and put 8 sleeves in it have it align-bored, and squared/decked. I was tossing around the idea of bronze lifter guides as well, are the worth the effort/cost as long as I am having the remainder of the block machined?
The block I have is not the "same year" as car used and now that I am looking at these aftermarket blocks I am wondering if the additional weight in the casting is worth it to have a more rigid block.

Thanks in advance.

Chad

Re: Stocker block SBC
 

if you are gonna spend that kind of money, get the dart

Re: Stocker block SBC
 

Yep, save yourself time and money, go Dart, and don't look back. By the time you do what you want to a 30 year old block that wasn't great to begin with, you can buy a near finished Dart that will last years. And the Dart will make HP. Find a Dart dealer and get them to order it for you like you want it.

Re: Stocker block SBC
 

Alan,,,assuming there are no stupid questions,,I'm going to fire this one off.
When it comes to Dart blocks for a small block Chevy, I know there is the SHP block
and the "Lil M" block. Are either of these blocks acceptable for Stock by NHRA, or is there another Dart block that is approved that I'm unaware of? I've also heard the SHP block takes a different, longer lifter as compared to the others, correct?
Thanks for your input as always.
Danny Durham

Re: Stocker block SBC
 

To answer the basic question, yes...you can run any year block as long as it's the same family. The original size of the block (262, 265, 283, 327, 350) is of no concern to tech. Just bore / stroke and technically lifter bore diameter and deck height (which is primarily dictated by the NHRA spec stroke, rod length and compression height and deck clearance).
That is why you see 454 blocks sleeved down to a 396 bore. It's all good.
And while I have never raced a class car with an aftermarket block, I would if one were available. There are MANY advantages as mentioned below. The cost is negligible compared to what you get.

Re: Stocker block SBC
 

Danny, the Little M Sportsman block and the 31161111 SHP are the two accepted Dart blocks.

Some Dart blocks do require a taller lifter if you are using roller lifters, as the lifter bosses are taller. The SHP block is listed as having the necessary dimensions and bosses to use OEM roller lifters and camshafts.

I've used and sold both. The biggest thing is knowing how to hone them. You also often have to kiss both the lifter bores and the main bores to suit your needs.

Re: Stocker block SBC
 

Chad

Don't spen al the at money on a old block, Putting 8 sleeves in that block will put a lot of unwanted stress in that casting,

Go with the SHP block and just about all roller lifters now are tall and will work the older blocks and the newer ones with the taller lifter bores.

We machine alot of Dart blocks and are a dealer for Dart products and as Alan metioned they do need some work and we like to have the lifters to be used in hand and fit them if needed.

The Dart block is light years ahead of any OEM block when it comes to cylinder locations, lifter bore locations, and cam tunnel placement and deck heights ETC.

Good luck which ever way you go!!!!

Re: Stocker block SBC
 

I don't think a 1975 Chevy "Stocker" engine uses rollers. He Must use a stock size (Diameter) hyd style lifter.

Re: Stocker block SBC
 

I gotta question. Will the 31161111SHP blocks legal with a 327?While a 327 and a 350 share bore sizes and almost everything else,the 327's were all 2 bolt main.Also, do these come with bushed lifter bores? The crank I use is the large journal steel forging. I have a few of these, so that's not a problem. Just thought I'd ask.

Re: Stocker block SBC
 

Did NHRA change the rules about using a 4-bolt main sleeved block down to 305????

Hammer

Re: Stocker block SBC
 

Greg, according to what I've read, what I was told by NHRA, and what Dart told me (I buy direct), that SHP block IS legal for all of the small block Chevy V8 combinations. No, they do not come with bushed lifter bores, they are however CNC machined for location, so it is not necessary to bush them to correct the lifter location.

Re: Stocker block SBC
 

We CNC machine all our blocks and we also have the ability to probe the lifters bores for locations and we have not found any problmes with the ones we have checked!!

Re: Stocker block SBC
 

My main concern was with the 4 bolt mains. Most tear downs don't go that deep anymore, but I was concerned about the legality of that detail.It sounds like a great place to start. 350 010/020 blocks without core shift are getting more and more scarce. Why bother when we can get one of these!! Next question-- who is the smokin' deal for one of these?

Re: Stocker block SBC
 

4-bolt mains are legal for all applications

Re: Stocker block SBC
 

So I can run a Dart block, yet I'm stuck running a stamped rocker arm?

I really don't understand some of the rules for Stock

Re: Stocker block SBC
 

How much are one of these blocks??

Re: Stocker block SBC
 

Jegs shows the 4"bore, 2 pc rear main seal block, Jegs pt #301-31161111 for 1499.99 plus $ 119 truck freight. That would be a good way to get one and save $140.00 sales tax. I should get rid of all my old stuff and buy one of these.

Re: Stocker block SBC
 

Carl
Long time since I spoke with you. If you remember we talked eons years ago about reworking small block oil pumps. I to have CNC capability with two machines. I purchase a few Dart blocks and Bowtie blocks as well as PBM. I have 1 SHP and 2 Little M and a Big M and a Bowtie here now. But I do not purchase enough to buy direct at a great cost, so I purchase from a good vendor that handily takes care of me( they sort thru a larger inventory than I could ever keep to help me). Have you had the opportunity to check the SHP after several runs (circle tracks) and saw any problems with their integrity as compared with the Little M.. Have you noticed the inability to keep seal after severe use and walking around of the mains.
reed

Re: Stocker block SBC
 

Go to the head of the line! :)

Re: Stocker block SBC
 

So far we have seen no issues as we have 2 guys one with a twin turbo build that is making appox. 850 horse and another procharger build that is appox. 825 horse and both are 3 years old and still running great.

On most of the blocks we machine we do add main studs and when using head studs we use a .950 stud bottom tap the head bolt holes and drop a ball bearing in the holes and screw the studs in as it keeps the cylinder much rounder on the bigger bore blocks, Rather bottoming a .750 stud out on the top of the deck.

Most leak downs are right at 2%

Using a good hone and the correct stones are key to having good ring seal and long life.

Hope this helps

Re: Stocker block SBC
 

For another 230.00 you can get one fully machined, decked, line honed to 2.6415, bored to your desired size and plate honed, chamfer around the main housing bores, chamfer freeze plug and cam plug holes, check lifter bores for proper size. cleaned ready to go and shipping is 125.00

Also we can machine lifter bores to .904 which is very common.

If this helps!!

Re: Stocker block SBC
 

Thanks for all the great feedback.

Is there any reason to look at the Little M or Motown blocks or is the Dart 3116111 the way to go?

Is the Dart 3116111 strong enough to not require Hard Blok as cast?

Thanks
Chad

Re: Stocker block SBC
 

I'd only use either of the Dart blocks. I think the SHP block is fine. The thing about Hard Block or Embeco block filler is that it also provides thermal stability. The SHP block is considerably thicker and stronger than say in "010" production block. "Pouring" the SHP might not be an absolute necessity, as I feel it is with production blocks, but I still prefer to pour my blocks.

Re: Stocker block SBC
 

I'm running a Dart Little m block in my sbc stocker. While it's certianly beefy enough I really think it's a little on the "overkill' side for a stocker; especially an automatic car. My block weighed 217lbs bare; which is 20lbs over my filled chevy block. Just something to think about when you're scaling your car.

Re: Stocker block SBC
 

I'd tend to agree with Bill that the Little M is over kill for a stocker, especially when you consider cost. I would not, however, use the Dart fasteners for the main caps in either case, Little M or SHP, I'd switch to ARP studs, and align hone the block. Not sure exactly what the weight difference is between the Little M and the SHP.