2-Step with a Stick Shift ONLY please !!!!!
I just went through a number of old threads on 2-steps.
I think my head is going to explode ! Brake pressure switch ??????? WTF is that for ????? Anyhow... I need to get my 2-step wired into my car ( along with the line-lock that I still haven't installed ). I need it to hold about 6000 RPM while in first gear, clutch pedal depressed... But once I leave... allow me to shift around 7000. How the heck do I do that ? ! I'm expecting a big education here ! |
Re: 2-Step with a Stick Shift ONLY please !!!!!
Put a switch on the shifter that over rides the two step. Probably will be where you have your line lock switch now.
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Re: 2-Step with a Stick Shift ONLY please !!!!!
Brake pressure switch on a stick shift car helps you be consistent. When you stage the car, find through experimentation what is the minimum safe brake line pressure necessary to hold the car still while staged. Then the release time of the brake system becomes a consistent factor in the "leaving event". The more pressure you build into the brake system, the longer it takes to release it.
Since you currently do not have a line lock, the brake pressure switch is not an issue, unless you have three feet. |
Re: 2-Step with a Stick Shift ONLY please !!!!!
This is easy, you need a switch that activates only when the clutch is pressed completely to the floor, I use the arm type switches the chassis places sell cause they're easy to adjust. You can use this set up cause no one presses the clutch completely to the floor on a gear change, believe me I know it works. I've wired up a relay in the past hooked to the line lock that deactivates the line lock on clutch release that way you have the line lock holding the car in the beams. Joe
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Re: 2-Step with a Stick Shift ONLY please !!!!!
http://www.msdignition.com/uploadedF...structions.pdf
See figure six. That allows you to hook up a line lock and a clutch pedal switch on a stick car. Once you stage, and step on the clutch, release the line lock button, the switch on the clutch pedal holds the line lock, holding the car on the starting line until you let the clutch go. |
Re: 2-Step with a Stick Shift ONLY please !!!!!
Wow, thanks Alan I've never seen this before basically how I had my stick car set up. Their schematic is much easier to read than my "art work" thanks for the link guess I never thought to look there.This looks very easy to set up. Joe
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Re: 2-Step with a Stick Shift ONLY please !!!!!
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It's easy enough that even I could do it! It takes a lot of opportunity for "stupid" away from the driver, not enough to make up for my having not raced a stick car in near 20 years, but it helped. We had it set up on an MSD 7AL-3, it worked like a champ, especially when the 220# of ballast that was holding the steering wheel did its job. Which was not often enough. I think I made a dozen passes in that car in a year, only 4-5 of them were decent. |
Re: 2-Step with a Stick Shift ONLY please !!!!!
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I tend to seize every possible "opportunity". Thanks people ! Now, with a couple switches and about 8 wires to install... the question becomes... will I have enough time between now and May, to figure out how to do it ? |
Re: 2-Step with a Stick Shift ONLY please !!!!!
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thanks Eric |
Re: 2-Step with a Stick Shift ONLY please !!!!!
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Re: 2-Step with a Stick Shift ONLY please !!!!!
If you don't have to use the clutch during shifts then it is a piece of cake. Just run a line from shifter button to burnout chip and line lock. For the clutch button I use the Biondo TBB-SA snap action. Then run another line from this button to launch chip. On MSD boxes, Launch chip works over the Burnout chip if both are active at the same time so you can be holding the clutch AND shifter button (to keep line lock active), but the only rev limiter working at that moment is Launch. No relay needed here if you are willing to dump clutch and release shifter button simultaneously on a launch.
If you do have to use the clutch during shifts then go with the exact diagram that alan roehrich posted because that is how I have mine. It requires the button on the shifter which powers the linelock and burnout rpm, and a button on the clutch pedal which is only activated when the shifter button first powers it. The pedal is connected to the launch rpm but it is only active when the hand button triggers the whole process (remember launch rpm takes precedence over burnout rpm in a 7al-3 so in actuality both will be active on launch but the box only recognizes launch at that moment) Once released it does not come back on during shifts because the hand button has to first power it. Also, you do not have to release both buttons on the launch, I stage the car and let go of the shifter button because the clutch button has now taken over until I dump the clutch, then nothing is active for the rest of the run unless you accidentally hit shifter button going downtrack. Hope this helps and is not too confusing! Quote:
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Re: 2-Step with a Stick Shift ONLY please !!!!!
What the heck is a burnout chip used for?
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Re: 2-Step with a Stick Shift ONLY please !!!!!
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Re: 2-Step with a Stick Shift ONLY please !!!!!
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I know !!! so you can hammer the snot out of the crankshaft, bearings, and timing chain during the burnout as well !! |
Re: 2-Step with a Stick Shift ONLY please !!!!!
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Besides, I'll be able to attend only one race next year... so it WILL BE Mission, BC. |
Re: 2-Step with a Stick Shift ONLY please !!!!!
make sure that rear end is up to the task this time :)
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