Strange Engineering Master Cylinder
 

Can anyone recommend what # Strange master cylinder, for me, to run? I cant remember if drum(4 corners) require a bigger bore or smaller bore, than disc fronts...
I have '68 Firebird, with 4 wheel drum... tired of the Orielly's junk thats on there now... Since i put it on, its never felt right...I know there is a Chrysler part, that compares to the Strange, but not sure what it is... THanks!

Re: Strange Engineering Master Cylinder
 

With the 4 wheel drum brakes, use the stock 7/.8 master. Best holding and stopping power with that. In my opinion.

Re: Strange Engineering Master Cylinder
 

7/8 bore? The problem im having, is, pedal is hard with no real feel, and it wont hold in burnout box, again... i thought i had that problem fixed, last year. Whole brake system is new... I have a strange on the '62, but dont know what model it is...it works great... Napa or Carquest might have a NEW cylinder...rebuilt ones , are junk...

Re: Strange Engineering Master Cylinder
 

This may be the reason for this issue......

Re: Strange Engineering Master Cylinder
 

That does sound like it may be an oversize master. Look on a site like rockauto.com where they have pictures of the part and give the bore size. As I recall a 93 Lebaron is a 7/8" of the sterotypical Mopar style dual cap master and a 95 Dakota is 15/16".

Re: Strange Engineering Master Cylinder
 

Have somone pump the petal while you bleed the lines. It sounds like you may have an obstruction in a line. You should get a high pressure squirt at each wheel if everything is correct. A stock master should work fine with drum brakes. Have you replaced all the stock lines? For drum brakes 7/8's master should be the ticket. If you changed from power to manuel brakes then your problem is the petal ratio. Power brakes have a much lower petal ratio and you must redrill the petal and increase the ration for manuel brakes. It may also require relocating the master for a straight shot from the petal thru the rod to the master.

Re: Strange Engineering Master Cylinder
 

Richard's probably got the right answer.
Most power brake pedals have a hole that gives about a 4 to1 ratio.
If thats the case, just calculate the distance to get about 6 to1 and drill a new hole in the pedal.
Definatly 7/8" -15/16" for drum / drum system

Re: Strange Engineering Master Cylinder
 

Richard, my car is factory manual brakes... all system is new...i didnt bother to check the piston size, when i installed the Master Cyl, about 1 1/2 yrs ago... ive since changed line locks, thinking that was the problem, but i believe its just the wrong master cyl. Or, its just a piece of junk. We used the Chrysler part, on my brother's 10.00 car, and it worked perfect. I just couldnt remember what car it came off of... All you have to do , is , notch the holes out , a bit, make a new pushrod, and you are in business....Ive bled brakes several times... doesnt help... BTW, the car drives like a Caddy, with the Global west stuff, adjustable Baer tie rods, and moroso springs... lifts straight, now. It used to twist on launch. 1.485 60fts , with bracket engine and 4.11 gears, bias slicks, 2400 footbrake...

Re: Strange Engineering Master Cylinder
 

I would install a brake pressure guage on the front brakes. If you do you will love it when doing a burnout. You can pump the brakes to a set level each time. I usually set mine at 900 for my burnout.
You are running factory steel lines? AN lines do not work well for brakes. You can the brakes pressure guage to determine if the backs are ok also. You should get about 5 to 6 hundred pounds on the first stab if everything is correct.
No one that I know of has had a problem with the factory master when staying with drum brakes. Make sure that your master is not bigger than 7/8's. If it is that could be your problem. You may have chosen a master that was designed for disk brakes if you don't know the size or application.

Re: Strange Engineering Master Cylinder
 

Yeah, I have all steel lines, and new rubber lines... I will pull master cyl, and measure it... Maybe, i should go to Napa, for a brand new one? (If this one checks out too big, or otherwise.) Im gonna put a brake pressure guage on the car...a good friend of mine, is giving me one. My Dad, had a '68 Bird(back halved) with 14.5/32's and never had a prob doin burnouts, and it had factory master cyl, was also manual brake car...

Re: Strange Engineering Master Cylinder
 

Where is the best place to source one? Napa is not showing a 7/8'', on line... i will call them tomorrow... Carquest, also...

Re: Strange Engineering Master Cylinder
 

Since the car came with manuel drum brakes, I would go to NAPA and purchase a new stock master. Try to keep everything like it came from the factory. The drum brakes have like a 3lb. valve that keeps pressure on the lines that disk don't have. I think part or all of your problem has been intermingling drum and disk parts. Go back to the orginal setup and you should be fine. Make sure that the master is for 4 wheel drum brakes since some cars had disk on the rear and drums on the front or disk all around. None of these will work properly. Also, be carefull you don't get a master for power brakes, it won't work right either.

Re: Strange Engineering Master Cylinder
 

Richard, when I bought master from Oriellys, for manual brakes, it hasn't felt right, since. I called Napa and Carquest... they only offer 1" for that application(4 wheel drum, manual). Will that work, or should I go the Chrysler route? All wheel cylinders, lines and hardware, are new. Running Hurst line lick...far as I know, it is working fine... just don't seem to have clamping power...have bled them 3-4 times.... I know I will have to make a pushrod, for the Chrysler part...

Re: Strange Engineering Master Cylinder
 

I would check your petal ratio. Don't assume anything without checking it. If the petal ration is correct, then to be absolutly sure on the master call Strange and ask them for the part number for a 7/8's inch drum brake manuel master.
If you can afford to, go ahead and change to 4 wheel disk. You will be glad that you did down the road. You can't properly drive the top end with drum brakes, plus the weight savings, etc. You won't have to purchase a second master later either. The disk need a 11/16 to 1 1/8 inch master.
I run Areospace disk and they work well for the price.
When you get your brake pressure guage you will learn a lot about your bakes and if they are working properly. Again check everything, don't assume anything. LOL

Re: Strange Engineering Master Cylinder
 

Thanks Richard! I will have to wait a year or two, before i can switch brake systems... If i can get it to run some sort of #, then, i will start on that kind of stuff... would love to have discs, on the front , atleast. Eventually, discs, all the way around, would be the ticket. My goal, is to make this the best car it can be, not necessarily the fastest...because , the latter costs alot more! hehe

Re: Strange Engineering Master Cylinder
 

For my 1966 A body with drums, I use Centric 130.62024 from andreotti@ottsfrictionsupply.com and I believe it is spec'ed to have a 1" bore. They also have Abex quality shoes that hold well and don't glaze stopping from 118 mph.

Re: Strange Engineering Master Cylinder
 

Don't waste your money on disc brakes at this point. Drum brakes work good and are treated like Rodney Dangerfield, "no respect". I pull my drums off every few races, clean and inspect them. Use premium, riveted shoes and good drums. I've run them for years on all fours with very little issues. I've found that car weight makes quite a difference. When I ran my car in E/SA or F/SA, I could smell that the brakes were hot, but that was roughly 3800 lbs. @ 120 MPH. Since I switched to D/SA and I'm weighing in at 3540 lbs., I don't smell them getting hot at all, even after braking from as high as 124 MPH. I wouldn't even think about using aluminum drums unless you enjoy playing Russian roulette. My .02.

Re: Strange Engineering Master Cylinder
 

Yea, i dont have any problem stopping, from 120, at this point. Everything is new. We ran 130, in my Dad's Bird(3000lb bracket car) with drum/drum, and had no probs, whatsoever... I will get a different master cyl(this one was never right, its about 1 1/2 yrs old), and go from there... then a new line lock, if that doesnt pan out...