Disc Brake Conversion
Looking for opinions on doing a 4 wheel disc conversion for my 68 Camaro stocker. Car currently has drums all the way around. It stops well. but very hard to hold on the line. Just looking at all the options by Wildwood, Aerospace, Baer, SSBC, and Strange. Any pros or cons would be greatly appreciated.
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Re: Disc Brake Conversion
Everyone will recommend what they run. That said, I've had Wilwood on my former ride and Mark Williams on my current. If I was to swap factory drum brakes or disc/drum again, my choice would be Mark Williams.
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I have Strange all around on my car, and they work great. a friend has Aerospace on his L/SA Olds and another has Wilwood on his R/SA car. They all work great. SSBC doesn't pay contingency and their stuff is heavier than your current drum set up.
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We put Aerospace brakes on our car this year but I would NOT recommend them.
From a few feet away they look so good, all shiny machined aluminum. But when we installed them we found every tapped hole very rough and full of machining chips. We had to run a tap through every hole to clean them out. Following their instructions, one front caliper was way out of tolerance for being centered on the rotor. It had to be sent back to be machined an additional .080 inches so it would fit properly costing additional us freight charges and time. To avoid finger pointing if we should run into any problems, we also bought the master cylinder and pushrod from them. After getting everything installed we started bleeding the brakes. Several minor leaks and several hours later the brakes still would not hold pressure. We finally removed the master cylinder and took it apart. There was a huge gouge in the cylinder bore! No wonder it would not hold pressure. Went to the local parts store and bought a master cylinder for a Dodge pickup and installed it. Had the brakes bled in 10 minutes. To add insult to injury I called Aerospace, told them what had transpired, and asked to return the master cylinder for credit. No problem was their reply. When I got my credit card statement they had dinged me a 10% restocking fee on the defective master cylinder. Not my idea of good customer service. The brakes work great, but the whole episode left a bad taste in my mouth. I would go with some other brand next time. |
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Call Mike at MPR and order a set of Mark Williams. He will give you a good price and service. Remember, you get what you pay for, and you do not want "cheap" in your brakes. Dyno
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hi mark how are you. I use the Strange disc all the way around on my 68 camaro with their soft pads, been pleased with them. also use their master cylinder as the wilwood leaked at the caps.
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In the process of installing Aerospace 2-piston on the front of our '67 E/SA Camaro atm. There was some minor rotor/caliper body clearance issues where we had to use a file to remedy. Seems the adage "you get what you pay for" does not mean much anymore.
http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps93c34f21.jpg Next weekend will bring the install of a 4-piston Aerospace system on the rear. We will be using a Strange master cylinder with a 1.032 bore as recommended by Aerospace...time will tell if that was the correct advice. Sorry I can't be of more help on the subject as we are still in process. I did use Aerospace in the late nineties on a '69 B/SA Camaro without issues which is why I chose them this go around. |
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If I'm not mistaken Aerospace offers some soft pads which might make a difference in holding on the line, but it's just conjecture on my part. http://shop.aerospacecomponents.com/...brakepads.aspx
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Mark
I had the "Push through the beams problem (2500rpm on 2 step)" as I struggled to get 750lbs., brake pressure with my hand controls. I changed my MC to a 1.030 bore piece and increased my pedal ratio to 7.4:1. Wah lah, 1200+ psi pressure with hand controls, and no more pushing through the beams. Using your leg would probably bury the gauge on my car. |
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From what others have posted, sounds like you really need to get the right sizing of calipers and parts if you choose to go the disc route, not the super light stuff. I was not convinced that the weight saving over the 9 1/2" drums was worth the considerable cost, especially considering the starting line issues some have mentioned , just my experience, hope it works out for you... Grant Eldridge E/SA 6650 |
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Any thoughts on juggling the proportioning valve settings on the disc systems to aid holding on the starting line?
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This one will have the 2-piston up front along with the 4-piston rear. It won't take long to find if it's going to be a problem. Putting a brake pressure gauge alongside the proportioning valve so I will know what's what. With the PG the car was pushing just below 3000rpm with drums, but come spring it will have a 3-speed metric and another convertor.
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Greg, which master cylinder are you using?
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Hope I am not stepping on this post, but I would like to know if a "typical race", rear disc brake conversion kit, changes the rear wheel spacing?
I want to use one of these kits on my GM "A" body with a 12 bolt with "C" clip eliminators, but I have no room to move the wheels out..... TIA |
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I believe the proportion valve goes on the rear brake line to limit the pressure to rrears as to not get rear lock up, and equal brake bias for correct stopping.
If you switch from rear drums to rotors I think it is based on the thickness of the rotor where it goes over the axle hub, which should be very close to the thickness of the drom, just slightly thicker, in the thouanths range. That is my take on it. I do not think it would be a problem. Hope someone who performed it already will chime in. Chris |
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I just went thru this conversion. I had 4 wheel drum brakes on my Fairlane and the car stopped fine at 130mph but it would push thru the burn out every once an a while if you didn't jump on the gas to get it going. I had always heard that drum brakes hold better and disc brakes stop better. That was not true the disc brakes do every thing better. No more 1 wheel lock ups trying to wheel race no more pushing thru the burn out no matter how slow I bring the RPMs up and you can stage on a flee if you want to. Plus I loss 67 lbs. I have strange 4 wheel disc and started with the stock 1" bore MC but switched to a 1 3/32" MC for a Mopar from NAPA.
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http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps13a77deb.jpg http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps00d3668c.jpg Front - http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/q...pse6416a15.jpg |
Re: Disc Brake Conversion
HandOverFist.... Good to hear. Thanks.
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