Challenger Stocker front suspension advice
Building a 1970 challenger and working on front suspension, and would appreciate some advice. First the old direct connection books recommend an .840" dia torsion bar, which as far as I can tell isn' t made anymore, or if it is, it's pricy. I'm considering turning down my originals to that diameter. I can't think why that wouldn't work. Thoughts ? Question 2, strut rod bushings. I've read the previous posts on it, and I didn't see a consensus on bushing/bearing. I'm looking for a good working suspension, not the most expensive solution. I do all my own work and can fab most anything. Thanks in advance.
Brian |
Re: Challenger Stocker front suspension advice
Contact Firm Feel
http://www.firmfeel.com/b_body_mopar_torsion_bars.html They make an .820 drag racing torsion bar. If they are a little pricy then look for a 6 cylinder bar for an e-body. I don't think it would be a good idea to turn down a torsion bar. You would ruin the integrity of the properties of the bar itself and it would probably snap under load like coming down from a wheel stand. Just my two cents. |
Re: Challenger Stocker front suspension advice
B and E body, same torsion bar...B-body might be easier to find with a slant 6
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Re: Challenger Stocker front suspension advice
Larry Hill posts on here all the time. He has a 70 Cuda that works pretty well. Send him a pm, he might be able to help.
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Re: Challenger Stocker front suspension advice
Thanks all for the tips, I'll PM Larry. Any other ideas, please post or send a PM. thanks
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Re: Challenger Stocker front suspension advice
What combination do you plan to run. Weight will determine how much stored energy you will need to transfer the weight to the rear tires.
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Re: Challenger Stocker front suspension advice
Plan is to run the 383/335
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Re: Challenger Stocker front suspension advice
What class?
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Re: Challenger Stocker front suspension advice
Back in the day Ed Hamburger's team cars had the torsion bar diameter ground down in increments and track tested to fine tune the spring rate. I remember a very generous radius in the hex to bar diameter area when lower class cars were involved. I wouldn't think a 383 combo with todays rear suspension technology would be in this category. I'd be pretty sure with 4 wheel scale numbers and feedback from this forum you could get a stock bar that's pretty close to what you need. Don't forget there's left and right....Reversing the side can end up with a bar snapping at unopportune times. The 3 digit number at the end of the bar is even for right and odd for left. (ie, 774 is right and 775 is left.....780 is right and 781 is left, etc.) The bars are thicker as the paired number increases.
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Re: Challenger Stocker front suspension advice
From what I've seen, it's a natural F car. The T bars that came with the car are .940", it's a factory 383 car. The car is being painted now and I want to get the front suspension done and installed on the k-member while that's happening. I guess the bars can wait a while.
Jim, thanks for that info |
Re: Challenger Stocker front suspension advice
that's the bars I would start with, you should be able to adjust ride height with preload and control extension with shocks. I sure hope the frame is tied together and is very stiff. Now all there is to do is listen to the car and give it what it wants.
Almost forgot get the toe correct through the full range of travel, it tells you how to do it in the "Big Book" Hope this helps |
Re: Challenger Stocker front suspension advice
Frame is tied with 2"x3" tubing, 8 point cage. Thanks, I'll take a look at the "big book" info.....I seem to remember reading about something on the upper control arm.......:rolleyes:
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Re: Challenger Stocker front suspension advice
As Jim B said, with todays suspensions it may not be necessary. Ask whoever is going to do your rear suspension before chasing torsion bars.
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Re: Challenger Stocker front suspension advice
Rick, I'll be putting in a caltrac setup in the back, and I'll go with whatever Calvert or a knowledgeable distributor recommends. Thinking more about this, it seems to me you would want the most stored energy in the front suspension. If it's more than you need, you'd deal with it using shocks. Just thinking out loud here, I'm no expert. So what has more stored energy ? a stiff bar, twisted (1) turn, or a weaker bar, twisted (2) turns.........
Probably clean the grease off the stock ones and start there for now |
Re: Challenger Stocker front suspension advice
For conversation purposes since a torsion bar is simply a coil spring that happens to be straight there is more stored energy in a thinner diameter with more twist (lower spring rate). Follow John's recommendations as to front spring and shock and then let the car tell you what it wants. I would guess he'll recommend something on the order of a stock 6 cyl bar.FYI if the front springs are way too low in spring rate the car may have a tendancy to wheelstand that the shock can't overcome. Don't overthink your initial setup..remember the KISS principle (Keep It Simple Stupid!!) LOL
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Re: Challenger Stocker front suspension advice
Jim, I like simple. I'm moving on to the next gray area ! I'll start off with the bars that came with the car, and keep my eyes open to the next looser oem bar. Interestedly, mopar performance only makes the heavier bars now. thanks !
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Re: Challenger Stocker front suspension advice
We run the 383 combo SS in our challenger with that factory 318 bars in and energy suspension components, it works perfectly, I would think the 2"x 3" frame connectors are a bit heavy, caltracs an good shocks will be the key on how that car works, as Larry touched on let it fly an start tuneing from there.
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Re: Challenger Stocker front suspension advice
Yeah, nothing light about the connectors or cage, should be stiff enough though. I'll be getting a set of the 318 bars to swap out if needed. Got a good game plan now for the front end, thanks all for the help.
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Re: Challenger Stocker front suspension advice
Go get 'em and have fun!
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Re: Challenger Stocker front suspension advice
Will do ! Plenty of work still to do, but I'll be there.
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