Calling for opinions, next step concerning oil
 

OK on my 70 Nova 350 stocker build, I have the new motor in, fired it up with the Gibbs break in oil for 25-30 minutes at 2000 rpms using the low tension valve springs. Changed the filter and replaced the lost break in oil. Any thoughts out there about letting the break in oil stay in it and running it some with the new springs or does the break in oil need to come out now that the initial break in time is done ??? Any opinions on where to go from here ??? Is there a rush to get the break in oil out ???

Re: Calling for opinions, next step concerning oil
 

I use the Valvoline Race Oil 10-30 non synthetic. Lots of zinc. But it doesn't hurt to run the break in oil.

Re: Calling for opinions, next step concerning oil
 

No big rush to get it out that I know of. I've had the best luck with new rings sealing up with that BR30 oil.
I know an engine builder that runs BR30 all the time in his own car, unless he has a tough heads up.

Re: Calling for opinions, next step concerning oil
 

^^^^^^^ Ed is correct. That is exactly what I have been told also. I was running the lightweight stuff and will be switching to BR30 full-time next year. My engine builder just tore my motor down and said to switch to BR30 as the internals did not look good. We even spin the oil pump over via a drill before we ever start the car, still no help.

Re: Calling for opinions, next step concerning oil
 

The gibbs oil .has a lot of paraffin's [wax] if you do not have heat In the motor it gums up the fine microns in the filter. This starves... some places in the engine and causes problems.TOM

Re: Calling for opinions, next step concerning oil
 

Zero-10wt Royal Purple is the only oil I would run cold. Never tried to run anything else without putting some heat in it. Patterson puts Gibbs (now Driven) oil in his Comp & SS stuff. I use the BR30 (5W30 wt break-in oil) with no problems. If you drain it cold, it leaves a lot of stuff black in your pan. I like to warm it up, or drain it not long after shutting it off. Black stuff is still in suspension. I haven't tested the zero wt Gibb's/Driven oil yet. Alan Patterson says it's good, so I am sure it is. I run my clearances on the right side. Loose engines seem more forgiving to me. Just what I have seen with my junk. Can't afford to have it done, so cobble my junk together myself.

Re: Calling for opinions, next step concerning oil
 

Have you guys ever tried the Brad Penn Green Stuff 10W-30 oil? It has a lot of zinc.

Re: Calling for opinions, next step concerning oil
 

I was using the XP1 (5w20) all year and had the end result of oil related issues. I know it leaves black stuff in the pan and have seen the wax/paraffin suspended in the bottle. Once you shake it up, it breaks up and goes away.

Anyone tried running Mobil 1 5w20? I assume there would be nothing wrong with running it.

Re: Calling for opinions, next step concerning oil
 

I ran the Mobil 1 5w20 last season, about 70 runs (changed it halfway through) and the bearings look great. Will be running it again next year...it's nice because O'Reillys is 3 blocks from home and they sell it in the 5 qt. jugs.

Re: Calling for opinions, next step concerning oil
 

I have had good luck with Lucas break in and race, Brad-Penn is really good oil also. Will know how good Lucas is in few days when tear in Randall's truck it has 400+ runs on it ,all Lucas 30wt.
Mike Taylor 3601

Re: Calling for opinions, next step concerning oil
 

Stay away from this oil. This picture is from our back up superstock motor a few years ago when we pulled the pan after using the Gibbs XP1 5-20. Had the filter plug up twice on the stocker resulting in no oil pressure. We use either the Valvoline race oil or the Maxima race oils.
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...pskpiyhtgf.jpg

Re: Calling for opinions, next step concerning oil
 

All I have ever used is mobil 1, 5w20 or 5w30. Patterson had me use this oil back in 1990 and have used it ever since. On the dyno at Madcap drained the Gibbs break in oil and switched to the mobil 1 and saw no difference. Actually picked up a couple. Filter and bearings always look good. This is the regular synthetic stuff at the parts store, not the race oil you have to special order. Had some Gibbs lightweight sitting here for about a year and when I poured it out of the bottle it had a inconsistent look to it. Like stuff had separated. Drained that one qt. out and stayed with mobil 1. I stock up on it when it is on sale at Napa and it always looks fine even after sitting for a long time.
Also I work on the forklifts out here at a facility where they used to do all the blending for Gibbs. All the oil used to come from this place before the switch to the Driven branding. I asked one of the lab guys there about the separation of the additives in the oil and he said you may have to shake the stuff up if it sits awhile. Seemed weird to me to have to do that!

Re: Calling for opinions, next step concerning oil
 

I run Mobil 1 in all of my race cars. The 396 that I just pulled from my COPO looked super clean after over 200 runs. The bearings looked new.

Re: Calling for opinions, next step concerning oil
 

I used Mobil1 for years, then started hearing how I should use "real race oil with more zink", things don't look one bit better than they did with Mobil1. Just costs more money. No sludge, either.

Re: Calling for opinions, next step concerning oil
 

Same here Ed. I used Mobile 1 but after breaking a couple of lifters I decided not to use any more passenger car oil or filters. I have been using the Valvoline synthetic Racing oil and I have a System One oil filter. Gibbs Break in oil for the first 10 - 15 runs then the syn.

Re: Calling for opinions, next step concerning oil
 

The thing with motor oil and additives is the same as with a lot of other things in the racing world: more is not always better.

An engine can only use so much ZDDP ("zinc"), molydisulfide, and other additives. And an oil can only hold so much of any additive(s) in suspension. After that point is reached, the additives only serve to take the place of lubricating oil, and create deposits.

Combine those deposits and excess additives with oil filters that have a very fine filtration media, and you can have a recipe for disaster.

Re: Calling for opinions, next step concerning oil
 

Only reason I got off of Mobile1 is I was burning the ends off a couple of intake pushrods on cold starts. I was lectured about not having race oil with more zink. Race oil didn't help the pushrods, I had changed the lifters. Had to file a small groove to add oil upstairs. That fixed that. Just never did change back, but I think I will now. Have used up the race oil I bought. Mobil1 is much cheaper. I have also had very good luck with 5W20 Valvoline VR1 as well. If I have a heads up I'm concerned with, and I am feeling good (don't always anymore), and I think my rings are sealed up, I will still put Royal Purple zero-10wt in it. If ring seal is not good, that zero wt oil will slow you down. Ask me how I know. LOL

Re: Calling for opinions, next step concerning oil
 

How about posting a poll about oil?

Re: Calling for opinions, next step concerning oil
 

Why would you run dirty break in oil in your brand new motor? Is oil that expensive? I break a motor in and drain the oil, replace the filter and cut the filter open. the oil will look metallic if you drain some into a glass jar as it's coming out.
I also install rare earth (neodymium)magnets throughout my motor, if you've never used one you have no idea how strong they are.
As for oil I went from Mobil 1 with Lucas Zinc additive to Valvoline VR-1 10w-30 and now Lucas Hot Rod oil. Lucas supports the sport and the oil is good. It's been available from Summit at a good price and with their policy it's free shipping. Couldn't buy VR-1 10w-30 locally so I was using Amazon for it.

Re: Calling for opinions, next step concerning oil
 

NAPA Auto Parts stores around here carry Valvoline VR1.