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Bobby Zlatkin 06-18-2016 03:29 AM

M-200 torque converter installation
 
Can't seem to get my torque converter back far enough onto the trans (M200) input shaft to give me space between the converter mounting pads and the flex plate so I can then pull the converter forward to bolt it down. (Damn, that was a long sentence) The converter is 3/4" back from the mating surface of the trans housing. Is that enough space? I am pretty sure I have the converter all the way into the trans (2 notches in).

I didn't have any problem with the last converter I used with this trans.

What am I missing here? Any help, thanks.

Lou Jeffery 06-18-2016 07:44 AM

Re: M-200 torque converter installation
 
Bobby, I think you are not engaged with the pump drive yet. I measured a stock 200 with converter and mount pads are 1.125 inches behind the mounting surface. The pump drive, The two square notches on the neck of the converter are the last part to engage. Hope this helps. Louis Jeffery

Mike Delahanty 06-18-2016 10:00 AM

Re: M-200 torque converter installation
 
I had an issue with a 200 like this a number of years ago. My solution was to stand the trans up vertically (I used a trash can to hold the trans) and install the converter. It dropped down on the input shaft easily that way. Be sure not to let the converter move and muscle it back under the car. Not fun, but it worked.

R. Thorne 06-18-2016 10:17 AM

Re: M-200 torque converter installation
 
If you have access to a mike (or dial caliper) measure the torque converter snout o.d. of both converters. Just .001" bigger could be holding up the converter from seating fully. Sometimes just putting in new front pump bushing can do the same thing. Also, check for a burr on the end of the torque converter snout. Ron.

Mike Jones 06-18-2016 11:25 AM

Re: M-200 torque converter installation
 
Removed

MR DERBY CITY 06-18-2016 11:34 AM

Re: M-200 torque converter installation
 
Had this happen to me a couple of times when a VERY reputable converter company did not machine the converter splines correctly....thought I was loosing my mind....ps....2 different companies....

Mark Yacavone 06-18-2016 12:09 PM

Re: M-200 torque converter installation
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by MR DERBY CITY (Post 506877)
Had this happen to me a couple of times when a VERY reputable converter company did not machine the converter splines correctly....thought I was loosing my mind....ps....2 different companies....

It is true that some of the hubs and components have turned up to be machined under size.
No telling where the actual part was manufactured.
I did learn early on , to check each hub with a shaft of the appropriate spline.
Bobby, that doesn't help you much at the moment unless you have a spare input shaft laying around.
If you are at 3/4 now,...no, that is not enough.
If you measure through one of flex plate holes forward to the machined bellhousing surface of the block , you will see that the converter pads need to be back from the trans case surface by that amount, plus your pullback clearance...At least .900 plus but usually 1.00 or more.
The pilot (what some have called the snout) has to be 1.702 or smaller on a GM V8.
The hub is what goes in the transmission. Again ,not a snout.

Tom Moock 06-18-2016 03:24 PM

Re: M-200 torque converter installation
 
Some of the 200 transmission need to have the case's honed out to make converter slid in easy, the cases go out of round dew to weak cases and heat on 200. I have Scott McClay hone mine, Not much fun standing transmission up having to use hammer to get converter in. Tom

ss3011 06-19-2016 08:22 PM

Re: M-200 torque converter installation
 
Never, ever use a hammer to pound in a converter ! The last "step" on a GM converter is the drive tangs for the pump . If the drive slots on the converter are not aligned with the tangs , then pounding in the converter could cause them to break off . I usually hold the pilot so it doesn't droop down , then spin the converter while lightly pushing in on the converter . Works for me !

rod butcher 06-20-2016 08:13 AM

Re: M-200 torque converter installation
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by ss3011 (Post 506950)
Never, ever use a hammer to pound in a converter ! The last "step" on a GM converter is the drive tangs for the pump . If the drive slots on the converter are not aligned with the tangs , then pounding in the converter could cause them to break off . I usually hold the pilot so it doesn't droop down , then spin the converter while lightly pushing in on the converter . Works for me !

I have found if you put the pump tabs at 12 and 6 oclock the convertor plugs in much easier.

Jon Sarrett 06-20-2016 08:36 AM

Re: M-200 torque converter installation
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by MR DERBY CITY (Post 506877)
Had this happen to me a couple of times when a VERY reputable converter company did not machine the converter splines correctly....thought I was loosing my mind....ps....2 different companies....

I had 1 just like that too. Drove me insane! I built trannies for a living so I have seated tons of converters without issue until this. It was on a 727 but I did have issues with my 200 as well. It was a tight fit but I eventually got it, just had to work for it.

Someone mentioned holding the pilot while spinning it. You may have to bump it with the butt of your hand while it's spinning to get it to seat. Get a little dab of tans gel and dab a little around the snout of the converter by the pump lugs.

Mark Yacavone 06-20-2016 11:16 AM

Re: M-200 torque converter installation
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Jon Sarrett (Post 506976)
I had 1 just like that too. Drove me insane! I built trannies for a living so I have seated tons of converters without issue until this. It was on a 727 but I did have issues with my 200 as well. It was a tight fit but I eventually got it, just had to work for it.

Someone mentioned holding the pilot while spinning it. You may have to bump it with the butt of your hand while it's spinning to get it to seat. Get a little dab of tans gel and dab a little around the snout of the converter by the pump lugs.

Jon brings up a good point.
Of course if you don't build trannys , you wouldn't have trans gel laying around.
You might want to take some white lube and fill the pump slots in the hub and paint a couple of splines on the input shaft and on the stator support, and then try the converter as far as you can , with palm pressure only.
You should be able to see an impression of just what's causing the hang up.

HR9121 06-20-2016 09:39 PM

Re: M-200 torque converter installation
 
Lesson I learned the hard way, if the converter is fully engaged you shouldn't be able to run your fingers behind it unless you have small fingers. I'm not judging anyone by the size of their fingers that's the politicians job.....

Tom Goldman 06-21-2016 12:27 PM

Re: M-200 torque converter installation
 
I've installed several TurboAction Metrics that did not have the pilot snout that is used for the factory lock up converter cut off and prevented the converter from fully entering the pump.
Some converters will accept the snout , others will not.
If yours has the snout that is likely the problem.

Bobby Zlatkin 07-13-2016 10:54 AM

Re: M-200 torque converter installation
 
Well, Tom Goldman turned me on to my problem. It was the pilot snout on later lock-up converter transmissions. Cut it off and problem solved, almost.

Still had trouble getting it on all the way. So, I took Mike Delahanty's advice and stood the trans upright. Didn't have a garbage can handy, so I used the cherrypicker. Worked like a charm.

I thank everybody that responded. That's what's great about this site. Everytime I get hung up on something, the answer is always here.

Mark Yacavone 07-13-2016 07:32 PM

Re: M-200 torque converter installation
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Bobby Zlatkin (Post 509055)
Well, Tom Goldman turned me on to my problem. It was the pilot snout on later lock-up converter transmissions. Cut it off and problem solved, almost.

Still had trouble getting it on all the way. So, I took Mike Delahanty's advice and stood the trans upright. Didn't have a garbage can handy, so I used the cherrypicker. Worked like a charm.

I thank everybody that responded. That's what's great about this site. Everytime I get hung up on something, the answer is always here.

I kinda thought Tom was right on this.
You can hack saw that thing off or use a cut off wheel, but unless you want to disassemble the front half , I would stick a Q tip with some grease on it in the hole first. Leave it sticking out, and cut it along with the nub. Then just grab it and pull it out, chips and all.


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