1972 Chevelle SBC combo
We picked up a 1972 Chevelle over the holidays and are curious about a Stocker combination.
http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/...Eminimizer.jpg http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/...Eminimizer.jpg The car is well built with good, safe, quality parts. The current engine is a forged 383 roller engine with Dart heads and a Holley. I'd like to keep this engine for cruising to car shows and some local small tire DOT racing but wanted a Stocker engine to drop in and try to get our feet wet in class racing. Is there a good SBC Stocker combination that wouldn't break the bank and is a class without a million killer cars where we could just worry about running the index to get started? The car already has nice SB headers, EWP, alternator mount, etc. so I'd like to stay SB. Thoughts? Scott |
Re: 1972 Chevelle SBC combo
Any of your small block chevy stuff is going to be pricey to be honest even just to run the index . Most of the Chevy combos are hit pretty good with H.P . As far as " dropping in " a stocker motor you are prob going to have to have at least a 5:13 gear , $1000 for a good converter and $2500 for a good turbo 200 or 350 trans . The 72 small block combo isn't to bad I think its rated at 270hp and will run H/I/J stock with means it could weigh 3275 to 3545 pounds depending on class you run. Engine you are looking at a minimum $6500 and I am not even sure that would do it for something to run the index or a little under a GOOD piece more like $12000 to $20,000
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The best combo would be the 270 350, if you are in this for the long haul . Buy the best block you can,you can run a cast piston and stock rods red line cam regular lifter, race rings , corvette pan std oil pump buy a set of older stocker heads,there are several guys that can get a set done. But really be hard to do it for under 5500.00 not counting trans and convertor. Nice look chevelle good luck. Then up grade as you go.
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H, I, and J are not what I'd call under populated with fast cars.
I believe that was the premise of the question. |
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3rd or 4th round can be equally as painful. I always thought the idea was to win eliminators. not just go a couple of rounds, so you can contribute to the Glendora Retirement Fund. |
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We'll have you in a 30 grand, store bought Tilburg or Wikle big block within a day or two. What the heck. Might as well go with a 454 . Get a second mortgage on the house. Have fun. The bar-b-ques after hours are great. Good people. |
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The small block is less of a headache
To make run and cheaper , IMHO !! |
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Justin Piccillo won division one championship two years in a row with the 350 combo.His car is not what I would call a killer piece in a class full of killers inJ/SA but he gets the job done.
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As mentioned by others, the 350/175 (270 factored) is a pretty good deal. It's no sleeper but it's not as beat up as some. As for costs, it really depends on how much you can do yourself. A good network of Stocker pals always helps, as somebody always knows somebody that has extra stuff laying around. Engine builders in your area that specialize it Stock or Super Stock are another good source. And there's fast cars in virtually every class (purpose built oddball combos excepted). The worst you'll have to do is keep an eye on the qualifying sheets and stay out of the way of someone else that's really fast. Build what you want and like, go out, have fun and enjoy it. :) |
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Don't forget about "the other half" of the Sepanek family!
"Quick Katie" is "EXTREMELY Successful" with her meticulous "Heavy Chevy" |
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Couple of things from someone who runs a 71 402 wagon. Stay away from the big block the intake manifold is pitiful.
Also look to see if running it as a 71 is better. Compression ratio's changed on the big block between 71 &72. Don't know about the SB. |
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Well, if you just want to get your feet wet, there's always the 307. Mine runs far enough under to qualify anywhere that it might need to except for Indy. It's easy to drive and is a decent bracket car.
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It's a good think I'm not a newbie. After reading all this, I would run like hell. 20 thousands dollar motor. 2nd house mortgage.
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Rick Thomason GTOMayhem |
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You can build something in your backyard and be competitive. You might even win a trophy or two. I would recommend enjoying all aspects of the sport.
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Thank you everyone for all of the comments. I wouldn't consider myself a "newbie" per say as I started following class racing more than 30 years ago as a teenager. I attended several Divisional and National events per year with a Division 3 champ in the late 80s/early 90s all the way from Florida to Canada. About 15 years ago I had a '95 Impala SS that I ran in Pure Stock while living in NC. I have never owned a Chevelle and thought with a gear and converter change I might be able to put an engine together to run the index and have fun but didn't know which combination would be best. I also didn't realize that competitive long blocks cost the numbers you guys are mentioning. My wife and I are both high school math teachers and with a daughter in college that's out of the question now. However, it's not unreasonable for us to start gathering the correct casting heads, intake and carburetor as I run upon them.
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Yeah I am stll chasing that 95 Impala SS Corbit Mashburn bought from you. It ran 1.3 under the index on a good cold day. You forgot about the B/PS LS1 Vette you had that ran a second under. Got close with a 1.1 under in my 95 SS on a cold air day. Can run Stock with the Chevelle a 350 4bbl for about $10000 for engine trans TQ and Gears. The rest of the car looks great! Have fun with it! |
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What meant by newbie was in regard to ladder games. Only a few that are really good at it. Would hate to see you have to worry about it all the time. A couple of things that a few of us have been talking about regarding tech ,as a Stocker. First ,there's the hood, of course. You also need the rubber strip that seals it against the cowl. The firewall will probably be okay, if not too extreme. Hard to tell in picture. The air filter top is not legal. Rear suspension ? Post some pics, if you can. |
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We will see where we go with the Chevelle. It's just in the exploratory phase now as I examine combinations and see what's possible and if we want to go that route. Currently we show the car locally often and plan to do some bigger regional shows this summer. I also hope to hit some Super Chevy events and try my hand at True Street. I think the car has a solid 9 in it with the fogger system (which I know will have to be removed if I do jump to Stock). Take care. Scott |
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The rear suspension currently is stock. Lower control arms have been boxed but nothing as far as suspension aides other than CE adjustable shocks. I know there are some quality aftermarket bolt-in options out there that would be legal. Yes, we aren't interested in playing the ladder games just to avoid heads-up runs. If we aren't fast enough at this point we aren't fast enough. That's why I was inquiring about combinations for this car since, for whatever reason, there aren't a ton of Chevelles running Stock so I wanted to see if there was an engine choice that landed it in a less-populated class. My wife and I are just interested more in the travel and the friendships to be made with other car guys and gals. Most likely will never be fast enough for Indy and don't plan on that serious of a financial investment; wanted to see if I could put something together in my shop on my own and run the number. I understand it won't be a dime rocket but I also don't want to mortgage the house to build a serious engine. Scott |
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You're wise to ask questions first. The major acquisition you already have-the car.It looks very decent, and would make a good Stock E project. You would have to put in a five point bar and a harness, carpet the back seat area and all that, but a good fab man could make a bar that would be removable at a later date so as not to forever alter the car. Assuming it has a 12 bolt, there is another costly obstacle overcome. A ring and pinion and axle and spool with C clip eliminator kits from Strange or Mark Williams or whoever is about half the cost of a whole rear end. Suspension pieces,shocks and springs are readily available,and are not difficult to install. Any 350 block that's decent to start with will do, a Dart block is nice, but a little costly. Cylinder head cores are very common even still,the 993,882, and 487 heads came on a lot of engines for several years between'71and 76, the intake is a one year part, #751,still common,you want the 9207 Q-Jet, get a Deano, a Holroyd, a Hedworth, there are a lot of excellent carb guys out there, the 350 trans would be a good place to start, for gears, 5.13-5.38's are an excellent place to start, just take your time and collect parts as you go along. I've raced small block Chevelles for some time, it's a consistent and user-friendly car. Good luck on your project, don't get in a hurry and buy stuff you don't need, and don't let somebody push their worn out junk parts on you thinking they will take advantage of a newbie.Oh, yes. In '72, the Chevelle SS was available with a 350. Your hood is legal with that combo if raced as an SS.
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I have a steel hood for the car, I don't remember if its a SS or not.
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I know it's hard to see from the pictures but the car already has a very nice 8-point cage. Front seats are factory bucket and the rear seat is still in the car. I have new 5-point harnesses on both front seats (OEM seat belts have been removed). It also has a 12-bolt in it now with Strange axles and a c-clip eliminator kit so I'll most likely just need a spool and gear. The 350TH is a nice piece with billet internals and a low first gear. No, not as nice as a 200 but I don't have to worry about it breaking. Thank you for the post again and I do believe that collecting the parts along the way is a good plan. I already have a nice electric water pump, headers, ignition system, etc. Scott |
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Scott, you don't need the SS stuff to run the cowl hood on a '72 Chevelle. The hood also came on the Heavy Chevy option which didn't have any functional cowl induction components. -Al
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It looks like the firewall in the initial picture on the post appears to have been smoothed out or modified in some way. Is this an issue before this guy gets started?
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