engine choice?
i am building a 67 cuda right now, and have a question. if I call it a 67 i can run the 273 2 barrel or if i say its a 68 i can run a 318 2 barrel. What would be the better combo?
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The 318 BBD 1-1/4" has a larger venturi according to the NHRA specs.
The 318 has 45 more cubic inches, more or less. The 318 can run the 308 and 576 heads, but may not be an advantage with 1.78/1.50 valves. I'd guess you would end up with the 302 casting heads for either one. The 273 has slightly more valve lift, about .010" or so. The 318 pistons are probably easier to come by if you are low-buck like me. Unfortunately, NHRA still lists the flat top piston for the 1968-1971 318s but they came with the four valve notch pistons. I sent in a set of pistons for approval but never heard anything back from Pat Cvengros. Too bad I threw away those 1969 318 pistons 30+ years ago. I looked for one NOS piston but never found one. The 273 is rated at 162 HP and the 318 is at 182 HP. It looks like the 318 gets a dual plane intake vs. the flat single plane for the 273. I'd say the 318 would make about 50 lb-ft more torque, but may not rev as high? Not many guys running the early 318s. There is a guy from NY or someplace up that way running a 1973 Dart with a 318. |
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that may the reason, why no one is running the 318 combo
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Check out the Featured Flyer in last weeks Dragster!
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This is a no brainer. Get a 69 grille, header panel and tail lights. You will need a later dart hood. Then run it as a 318 this is solid 1.00 under or more player.
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Paul, is there an advantage of the 1969 Cuda over the 1968 Cuda with a 318? I'm assuming that is the 1973-6 Dart hood, preferably the Dart Lite hood.
I guess there are some guys running the 318. From the latest "SLOW averages". Q/SA 69 Dart 5044 1969 Dodg 318 230 172 13.8 13.238 -0.562 T K-1 Q 5746 Q/SA 68 Plymouth 1968 Plym 318 230 182 13.8 13.092 -0.708 TK-1 Q Not sure why the 1969 318 is rated at 172 HP and the 1968 318 is 182 HP, but maybe that is why Paul suggested the 1969 Cuda trim. Sam Capizzi is the guy with the 1973 Dart with the 318. |
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Thanks Paul for all of the input, you have been a great help.
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I was told to check this tread out. Paul is right. I have a 68 cuda that I was going to turn it into a 69 but I just sold that 318. I have not decided what to build next. By the way there is an accepted piston on the list with 4 valve reliefs. That took me over 6 months. Pat was very stubborn.
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Thanks Marlin for getting a piston approved. I sent him a Sealed Power, one from Silo-Lite and another one and as much documentation as I could dig up like pages from the service manuals, etc. Now I have to see which one has the four notches. I don't remember Diamond having two pistons before, but I don't see any Stocker pistons listed for a 318 on their website.
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69 Baracuda is the year- /6-318-340-383-440 take your pick. I have a 69 notch, and a gazillion 318s laying around, decisions decisions. If I can just get this Duster finished, shoulda done the Cuda first. LOL
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383 would be my choice
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I sent NHRA ,Div. 5 and diamond piston original pistons.They refused until Bob Lang and Wesley chimed in . the pistons have nhra logo 67-71 318 and # 800078 laser engraved on them, and 4 valve reliefs.
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"Get a 69 grille, header panel and tail lights" I am not sure that would be easy or cheap. I have thought about converting by 69 to a 68 but always thought I could not afford a nice set of grills. Good luck with your project, please keep us informed of you choices and progress. Bill |
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The front grills and nose cone are hard to find for a Barracuda. A Dodge Dart is easier to swap.
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Also keep in mind that 67s have no side marker lights, 68s have round marker lights, 69s are rectangular, and much larger. Hell, I`m a Ford guy, and even I know that.
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I get the parts are not cheap. This was not a dime rocket thread. If your on a real budget then run it as a 1968 because its not going 1.00 under without good parts.
I've been accused before of taking it way to far with slow cars, but somehow im as entertained with a 10 second car as I am with a 13 second one with a lot of parts that have to be hand made. The 1969 suggestion was purely to make the car a good combination. It may be $1500 worth of parts. I guarantee if you could sell the idea of other stock or superstock racers having the ability to take 170 pounds out of their car, there would be a line up at $10K |
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to me $1500 is not a big deal. This is not a short term project to be on the track this year or the next. And as it gets done, it maybe run as a bracket car with a stock 340 engine. This is a project that is an enjoyment for me. And it is teaching me to do things right and not quickly.
Again, thanks Paul for your input, one day. If possible I would like to meet you face to face. I admire your dedication to the sport |
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i have no idea, as far as we know it could be bracket racing now
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Right, the LD4B was the 273 intake, D4B for the early heads with the different bolt angle. We better not talk anymore about the intakes with Billy Nees on here watching.☺
Now you got me thinking about converting my street car (1969 Barracuda, 340, 4-speed) over to a stocker again. Since it is an original 340 car I didn't want to put a roll bar in it. My racer friends thought I was crazy wanting to race it without a roll bar. With the 160 MPH "Stockers" out there, they have a point. I figure the 318-2bbl combo would drop me down to R/SA where I wouldn't need the roll bar. If I put a roll bar in it, I might as well build a 383 for it. It has less HP than the 340 with basically the same AVS, bigger valves, slightly better heads, more cubes, etc. More weight on the nose though. |
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I don't think tech will buy a bolt in roll bar.
Pete |
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I believe the 69 383 Barracuda is at 295 hp. That's 4-5 less than the 340. With the Edelbrocks...maybe 300? Positive deck height with no valve relief is a limitation, and no aftermarket connecting rod available anymore (Eagle has larger than stock side clearance). |
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Jim Hale ran his '67 with a 383 in G/SA and didn't too bad with it before he sold it.
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Small valve heads in that combo too. |
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Unibody cars with stock floor and firewall (wheeltubs permitted) may attach roll bar with 6-inch x 6-inch x 0.125-inch (1/8") steel plates on top and bottom of floor bolted together with at least four 3/8-inch (0.375") diameter bolts and nuts |
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2016 Rulebook, "Unibody cars with stock floor and firewall (wheeltubs
permitted) may attach roll bar with 6-inch x 6-inch x .125-inch steel plates on top and bottom of floor bolted together with at least four 3/8-inch bolts and nuts, or weld main hoop to rocker sill area with .125-inch reinforcing plates, with plates welded completely. Also, the roll bar may be welded to frame connectors that are fully welded in place and are 1 5/8 inches x .118-inch MS or .083-inch CM round and/or 2 inch x 2 inch x .058 MS or CM rectangular." |
Re: engine choice?
Just another thing I've learned today.
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I believe that you will find, however, that all the braces and side bar must be welded to the car. I ran into that way back in 1980.
Jim Hale's current car is a 383 small valve, small carb combination - 1966 Belvedere Station Wagon. |
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