crankshaft bolt on damper turning tool
I have seen this tool but have not found it for sale. Who sells the SBC three bolt flange tool with large hex that is an engine turning tool?
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Summitracing shows one.
Proform Engine Rotation Adapters 66782 |
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that is it, Thank you, I knew I had seen it but needed your help
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Looks good. Is this installed temporarily or left on all the time? My balancer bolt has a 1/2 inch fitting in the center but it's hard to get a wrench in there with the pulley and radiator on.
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I already have one, but it is a pita to unbolt the pulley to use it. Thinking about using three long studs for the pulley so I can simply slide it on without loosening anything. Weary of banging on the starter to adjust valves.
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I just run the bolt in the end of my crank in with my 1/2" drive impact wrench. I have a long handle 1/2" drive swivel head ratchet to turn it. It's the same length as a 1/2" drive breakover. I can turn mine backwards without the bolt coming loose.
What is wrong with bumping the starter to set the valves? Been doing it over 40 years with no issues. I have a button next to my hood latch plate for that. |
Re: crankshaft bolt on damper turning tool
Look at the ARP bolts - they have some with either 12 point long heads, and some that have a 1/2" square drive hole inside, along with a big hex outside.
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With my specific need, while on the dyno, no pulleys are installed and the flex plate is inaccessible because of the dyno mounting.
Because of the heavy valve spring load, I do not like the "feel" of the 7/16 center bolt. The above tool will work perfectly in this situation. This dyno does not allow the engine mounted starter to fit, it has it's own starter and does not "bump" with the control as well as the engine mounted one. The above tool will let me utilize the above said long ratchet. And as stated above, in my experience, "bumping" the engine mounted starter is completely acceptable. |
Re: crankshaft bolt on damper turning tool
:"Bumping" the starter will work, but you can't really control where it will stop. I prefer to do it manually.
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Hand, you are correct about bumping. I am double checking my TDC pointer and cam center line so I need the long handle manual smoothness.
It would be easy to build what I want but for $20.00 store bought not worth the time. |
Re: crankshaft bolt on damper turning tool
Yeah I used to lie on my back in the gravel to swap transmissions too. I know it can be done and has been for years...I don't do that anymore lol. :p
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You think it needs to stop at a certain degree BTDC? You do know the lifter just has to be on the cam's base, right? |
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This one works pretty good. You can turn the engine in either direction without worrying about the bolt backing out.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/2-In-1...CABEgJLY_D_BwE |
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And somebody mentioned being uneasy turning the engine by "that 7/16" bolt" in the end of the crank? I just checked my fully assembled engine on the stand. All spark plug in, etc. takes 35 ftlbs to turn it. Have to wonder how 35 ft lbs is going to be hard on that 7/16" bolt? They typically torque to 70 ft lbs. 35 ft lbs won't "back out" a 7/16" bolt properly torqued. |
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Ed, I the specific case of the engine I am working with, it has bushing lifters. With those, there is a significant difference in rotating torque. In addition, it has .950 lift a 1000 lb + springs.
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Dragzine: EO/IC rule (Exhaust Opening and Intake Closing). Set the intake valve lash when the exhaust valve is beginning to open. This will put the intake lifter at the base circle which is where you want it to be. Then set the exhaust valve lash when the intake valve is about halfway down on the closing side. On All Cylinders: Then, rotate the engine until the exhaust pushrod on the cylinder you are working on begins to move upward. You’ll be looking for any rocker arm movement. This is the process of exhaust opening. At this point, you can adjust the intake because the intake valve will be closed, ensuring that the intake lifter is on the base circle of the cam. Wallace Racing: 2. Hand turn the engine in its normal direction of rotation while watching the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder's intake valve. (Why? Because when the exhaust is just beginning to open, the intake lifter will be on the base circle of the lobe, so the intake is the one we can now adjust.) Note: It's "misinformed" and "valve train" |
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Randy, if your cam is ground properly, your valve lash will be the same anywhere on the base circle. If not, it has some base circle runout. It should not have that.
If it does, where in that diameter variation, do you choose to set the lash? |
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I have been setting valves by bumping the engine over and setting the lash at the loosest location on the base circle on both flat and roller tappet engines. I have been doing lash this way 50 years, I'm not saying that it's right I am saying that it has worked in past and will work in the future. There are a lot of different ways to skin a cat, so just use what works for you. Bob |
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We used to set them at TDC, compression stoke. Had the dampener marked each 90 degrees. Follow the firing order. Two revolutions got them all. Most everybody I know bump the starter, set the intakes when the exhaust valve starts to open. No exact point. Set the exhaust when the intake is almost closed. I check my valves each day at the races. Very seldom have to adjust one. And, stopping at the same exact point each time would very unlikely. Lash does not vary while checking it at different points. |
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